View Full Version : Proper way to install Morse Taper #3 into drill press?

07-19-2011, 12:40 PM
We finally received our new drill press in the shop here at work. Comes with a MT#3 spindle, and I have a nice new Albrecht keyless chuck with integrated MT#3 arbor.

Aside from cleaning all the metal preservative from the new drill press, what is the 'proper' way to install the new chuck into the spindle?

I was thinking opening up the chuck all the way so that I can put a chunk of 1/2" wood dowel or aluminum rod up to the chuck base and tap with a hammer to set it for good? Or is that even needed?

Dale Lusby
07-19-2011, 01:09 PM
I'm certainly no expert but I usually just make sure it's clean and then push it in good. Get it in all but 3/4" - 1/2" or so and then one quick motion to set it. Certainly could tap on it but it doesn't take too much force. You'll know if it's not set good enough if it falls out:) A few things I look out for before setting it good is to make sure the tang is long enough but also not too long that the drift key won't fit in to get it out. I love having the morse taper spindle on a drill press. It's nice to use morse tapered drills to larger sizes but they can be pricey to purchase.

Dr Stan
07-19-2011, 01:16 PM
Just make sure the internal and external tapers are spotless and you line up the tang with the slot in the DP spindle. One good upward motion by hand is all one should need, especially with brand new tapers. As said, if it falls out, you didn't have properly aligned.

07-19-2011, 01:39 PM
I always clean the inside and outside tapers, insert the shank, then open the chuck fully so the jaws are retracted and give it a good upward whack on the chuck body with a lead hammer.

Has worked perfect for me for over 30 years now ..

07-19-2011, 03:00 PM
I've always done it like metalmagpie only replace "lead hammer" with a "deadblow hammer". Same difference. No need to whack it with any true force---the first time you drill a hole it will seat more firmly than any whack you give it beforehand ;) The most important aspect is actually the cleaning of the socket and taper. If you change chucks often or swap integral-taper shank drills, I'd recommend a socket cleaner. The one I have is a Kaiser product and cost ~10$. Plastic with felt pads. One good swipe and any swarf or oil is cleaned right off. I like inexpensive insurance! :)

07-19-2011, 03:08 PM
Many thanks for the guidance!
Waiting for our electrician group to run the new lines into my shop (220v 3 phase), and then we should be good to go.
Finally, after all these years- a variable speed drill press. No more belts and black hands. :)

07-19-2011, 04:19 PM
Be sure to get all the oil and preservatives off the taper socket and the taper on the drill chuck. Put it together dry.

07-19-2011, 04:57 PM
Im crazy. I oil my tapers with way oil! Doesnt seem to make them slip. I HATE rust. Rust will also sieze a taper good. Just try and get a drill chuck off a rusted JT taper. Good luck. I think water might as well be called taper loctite.

Its all about getting them clean. I wipe them off with a CLEAN oiled rag (Use a dry rag if you like dry. Not that you'll get all the oil off something with less then solvents, and then it will rust up quick. You do oil them before storage at least right??), and when inserting it should suddenly go 'tight'.
if it tightens up slowly over more then 1/8" insertion, theres something in the taper, Don't wack it! Take it out, clean the taper and socket (Oily rags seem to remove debrie better then dry ones as it sticks to the rag.)

At this point you know the taper is clean, and its seating nicely. If you oiled the hell outta it like me, theres one final step: Just push lightly and twist the drill. It will allow any remaining oil to escape and suddenly lock the taper in about 1/4 turn. If there was anything in the taper and you hammered it, or twisted it, it would scar everything up.

07-19-2011, 07:23 PM
I install chucks and taper drills like I was taught as a child in the shop, again during college, and have read multiple times in texts - with a block of wood. I thread the jaws halfway back in the chuck body per Jacobs recommendation, seat the chuck taper loosely in the spindle socket by hand, then use the quill to press the chuck jaws into the block of wood firmly. Needless to say I always clean and lightly oil the tapers as well.

07-19-2011, 07:35 PM
They should be put together dry.Wipe the bore out with a clean dry rag and wipe the taper off the same and put the taper in the bore. When your changing drill bits in a drill press all day long on a job you just wipe them off as clean and dry as you can and keep working. Having excess oil on the taper or in the socket is not best but it's your drill press so do it the way you want to.

07-19-2011, 08:15 PM
Not sure if I can bring myself to have any metal tooling in my shop dry, without a wipe of oil. I hate rust! This chuck and arbor will most likely been in there for a very long time w/o removal.

07-19-2011, 11:25 PM
When i got my mill the instructions suggested : For a permanent fit, freeze the socket for 15 or so minutes, then with the arbour warm , slip them together and give the drill chuck a light tap with a block of wood, let it return to room temps.
And yes, be sure the socket is clean first.

07-20-2011, 04:36 AM
I've only skimmed this thread, but I don't think anyone has yet mentioned;

Check the tapers!

I wouldn't assume these days. Make soft pencil lines down the arbor taper and give it a good twist in the socket. See where the lines are smeared.

07-20-2011, 09:10 AM
I wouldn't assume these days. Make soft pencil lines down the arbor taper and give it a good twist in the socket. See where the lines are smeared.

great idea! Thanks for everyone's input. Glad I asked this "dumb question" now!

07-21-2011, 12:11 AM
I second that. That is all that is needed. Wipe the taper with your hand. A light coating of oil left after that is OK. If it does not stick - check your tapers.