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aostling
07-25-2011, 02:56 PM
Last time I changed brake pads on my 2004 Subaru Forester I bought OEM parts from the dealership. These cost $179 for front and rear pads, much higher than I was expecting to pay.

It's time to change them again. Any recommendations for good pads at a cheaper price?

Optics Curmudgeon
07-25-2011, 03:10 PM
I got ceramic pads for a 2002 Accord from AutoZone for about $120, they stop well, last longer and don't scream like most aftermarket pads.

Joe

flathead4
07-25-2011, 03:11 PM
Go online to several of the usual auto parts stores like Autozone, Advance, etc. They usually have several grades to choose from. I usually pick something in the middle. The cheapest seem to squeek and grab after awhile. I replaced the pads on my Kia van earlier this year and it came to about $100 for all four wheels. The tiny rear pads cost just as much as the larger front pads but what can you do?

Tom

MotorradMike
07-25-2011, 03:12 PM
I never buy OEM brake parts unless that is the only source.
I have had really good luck with rotors and pads from jobber shops.
In the USA I believe Pet Boys or NAPA will have rotors as well as a choice of pads for a 2004 vehicle. And cheap too.

You might want to look at a Subaru site though to find out if there are issues with your model. Sometimes disc brakes squeal and sometimes, OEM is the only way to fix that.

Guido
07-25-2011, 03:20 PM
Rock Auto, on the iNet. A blatant recommendation.

--G

flylo
07-25-2011, 03:30 PM
Try advanceautoparts.com get 15%off today & $50 off a future $100 order. Code JL15. Also free delv to home or store. I use this even if I pick up at the store, the prices are cheaper online. I put a coil pack on wifes van that was $80-$115 every where & it ended up costing $55 & I got a coupon for $50 off a $100 order. Also customer service line is very good & open 24/7.

aostling
07-25-2011, 03:54 PM
Rock Auto, on the iNet. A blatant recommendation.
--G

The prices are rock bottom http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php. But I'd like some suggestions as to which brand -- they sell dozens.

Guido
07-25-2011, 04:08 PM
Raybestos-----Bendix-----Service grade, semi metalic, soft in regards to the ceramic stuff but oh, so easy on the discs.

--G

airsmith282
07-25-2011, 05:34 PM
Last time I changed brake pads on my 2004 Subaru Forester I bought OEM parts from the dealership. These cost $179 for front and rear pads, much higher than I was expecting to pay.

It's time to change them again. Any recommendations for good pads at a cheaper price?


dealers always over charge big time , and they sell you the bottome junk all the time to , aftermaket parts and go top end you get what you pay for for sure most of the time , goto the dealer you pay top dollar for junk

i do my brakes every 3 years needed or not, and i always get top end stuff for 3 times less then the OEM dealer junk...

aostling
07-25-2011, 06:42 PM
Raybestos-----Bendix-----Service grade, semi metalic, soft in regards to the ceramic stuff but oh, so easy on the discs.


Bendix sounds okay.

Raybestos has a connotation of asbestos. Do they still use that in brake pads?

dfw5914
07-25-2011, 06:47 PM
...Raybestos has a connotation of asbestos. Do they still use that in brake pads?

No, not in many years.

aostling
07-25-2011, 06:57 PM
No, not in many years.

Yeah, well, I should have figured that out. But the name raised suspicions.

What about squealers? My OEM pads didn't have them, and when I replaced them last time I was shocked to discover than one of the pads was virtually down to the bare metal. Will Raybestos or Bendix come with wear indicators?

dfw5914
07-25-2011, 06:59 PM
Some do some don't, just have to open the box and have a look. Most likely, if not on O.E., then replacements wont either.

Bob Fisher
07-25-2011, 07:18 PM
Subaru,Honda,Kia? Why don't you guys buy an American car? The brake problems are not that different as are replacing the other perishable things that go with owning a car. I know there are many places where you don't have a lot of choice about what you buy, but you can keep SOME of your money in this country in this instance. MAYBE, we could even create some new ,decent paying jobs here. Bob Fisher.

Iraiam
07-25-2011, 07:22 PM
I get quite a bit of the Car Quest brake pads, The premium ones, usually a better grade than OEM. I have been using O'riely's a few times lately also.

I try to avoid ceramic pads unless the vehicle calls for it. The reason is they are quite a bit harder on rotors than the bi-metal pads are. I put ceramic pads on a 2004 explorer recently, mostly because the rotors were at the minimum thickness and will need to be replaced next time.

lakeside53
07-25-2011, 07:33 PM
I put OEM on my manual transimission Subaru Outback. Front only, $92. Back was only worn 30%, and the front had lasted 103,000 - maybe 10-15% left. Tiny amount of wear on the rotors, but cut them anyhow.

I'm happy with for $100 per 100,000 miles.

lakeside53
07-25-2011, 07:35 PM
Subaru,Honda,Kia? Why don't you guys buy an American car? .


My Subaru is made in the USA

aostling
07-25-2011, 07:43 PM
My Subaru is made in the USA

I find that surprising. My Forester is made in Japan, and it's built on the Impreza platform.

I am seventy, and I am on my sixth car. How many cars do you think I would have owned if any of them had been American cars?

Bob Fisher
07-25-2011, 07:43 PM
But where is the engineering and design work done? Where are the tools and dies built? Where do the profits go? If you examine the component parts, you will find they are almost all sourced to Japanese firms. There goes some more of your money overseas. Bob Fisher.

chriskat
07-25-2011, 07:57 PM
+1 for Rockauto. And for what it's worth I'd buy the cheapest they have and just change them more often.

Just bought pads for my 2000 Yukon XL, got a closeout deal; both axles around $40.

Jeff

saltmine
07-25-2011, 08:00 PM
Sorry, I'm with Bob on this one. I didn't have to replace the front brake pads on my Impala until it had over 100,000 miles on it. I'm still waiting for the rear pads to wear out (135,000 miles)

wierdscience
07-25-2011, 08:07 PM
+1 on the softer Raybestos,the discs are where the real dollars come in.

aostling
07-25-2011, 08:57 PM
+1 on the softer Raybestos,the discs are where the real dollars come in.

The RockAuto website http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php has Raybestos pads at good prices, but only in ceramic for the 2004 Forester XS.

I will look for Raybestos elsewhere, in semi-metallic.

Rex
07-26-2011, 05:25 PM
No asbestos content.
They have been paying out the wazoo to every whiner in this hemisphere for decades over asbestos.

Raybestos is what I use, usually the best available.

beanbag
07-26-2011, 05:43 PM
Why not do a search on any of the Subaru forums?

Forestgnome
07-26-2011, 06:05 PM
I find that surprising. My Forester is made in Japan, and it's built on the Impreza platform.

I am seventy, and I am on my sixth car. How many cars do you think I would have owned if any of them had been American cars?

Maybe one or two?

http://www.allpar.com/cars/stories/index.php

Bob Fisher
07-26-2011, 09:59 PM
What do you search for on a Subaru forum? Easiest way to remove rusted brake calipers? Or, maybe other ways to repair other things? Never had to search a Pontiac forum, if one exists, for anything. Respectfully, Bob Fisher.

383 240z
07-27-2011, 10:47 AM
Wow I can't believe you bitching about $100 for the single most important safety item on you car? Are not your wife and kids worth $100. Even more unsettling when you spread it out over several thousand miles. I replace the pads on my fathers one ton every 45-50k as it always has about 25k GVW on it I pop for the Powere Stop pads and rotors, I love the extreme duty ones. We had the trailer brakes fail and we made a very controlled passage down out of the Allegheny mountains. But hey that's just my $.02. Do me a favor? If your gonna run el-cheap pads, leave a few extra car lengths between the front of your car and th rear of mine. Keith

saltmine
07-27-2011, 12:22 PM
Aostling, Had you bought one American car, and took reasonable care of it, you'd still be driving it.

$100 for brake pads? I wish. My pads cost $140 for "replacement" pads. But, on a happier note, they lasted 100,000 miles.

aostling
07-27-2011, 04:18 PM
I've ordered Raybestos pads from RockAuto, front and rear for $60. These are ceramic, since they did not list semi-metallic for the 2004 Forester.

I have never bought an American car for the simple reason that none have met my criteria. These are:

1) stone-ax reliability
2) tight turning diameter (no more than 35 ft curb-to-curb)
3) high ground clearance (8 inches)
4) fuel economy

The Forester scores high except for #4.

Many of us remember Saturday afternoons spent under the car, with a grease gun. The sealed ball joint (developed by the Japanese?) put an end to that chore. No more packing wheel bearings, replacing spark plugs, tuning carburetors, filing points, or adjusting valves.

saltmine
07-27-2011, 09:10 PM
Actually, the sealed ball joint wasn't invented by the Japanese. GM invented the first production sealed joints in the late '80's, on their 1/2 ton pickups Shortly there after, we got a service bulletin regarding front end squeaking and hard to turn, (rough) steering. So....Every sealed ball joint GM manufactured on pickups had to be replaced, under warranty.
Ford had a rather nasty take on sealed ball joints when they introduced the Expedition. The sealed ball joints were manufactured as part of the upper and lower control arms, and when they wore out, you had to throw the whole thing away. ($$$) The Dodge Durango was the subject of rapid ball joint wear, also. The Durango front end was designed to carry a V-6 engine. When Dodge dropped in the cast iron wonder they called the 5.2L V-8 the ball joints started failing with alarming frequency. To make matters worse, Chrysler-Dodge dealers blamed the owners of the Durangos in question for abusing the vehicles, and for the first year this went on many people had to pay to have their ball joints replaced..on low mileage Durangos.
Chrysler eventually began recalling them when several people were injured in accidents traced to the ball joints separating while driving.

Forestgnome
07-28-2011, 09:17 AM
I've ordered Raybestos pads from RockAuto, front and rear for $60. These are ceramic, since they did not list semi-metallic for the 2004 Forester.

I have never bought an American car for the simple reason that none have met my criteria. These are:

1) stone-ax reliability
2) tight turning diameter (no more than 35 ft curb-to-curb)
3) high ground clearance (8 inches)
4) fuel economy

The Forester scores high except for #4.

Many of us remember Saturday afternoons spent under the car, with a grease gun. The sealed ball joint (developed by the Japanese?) put an end to that chore. No more packing wheel bearings, replacing spark plugs, tuning carburetors, filing points, or adjusting valves.

Yes, that is the nice thing about disposable cars. They work good for their life, almost no maintenance, then you buy another. Can't say it's a Japanese vs. American, now they're all disposables. Good for the landfills too. Otherwise they wouldn't be so massive.