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View Full Version : tig welding experience part two



plunger
08-16-2011, 03:07 PM
http://i941.photobucket.com/albums/ad254/eugeneeman/workshop007.jpgWell this is all my chineese inverter managed to acomplish before it packed up. Picked it up and positioned it in a more comfortable place and poof .The earth leakage came down . i opened it up to see if i could fix it but I am electronically challanged. There are two aluminium blocks that look like heat sinks They are very close together.It seems as if something arced between them as i can see the arc marks on the aluminium. If I take my multimeter and touch the aluminium it shows it has 220 volts. Someone told me these might be what is called the igbt,s.If they have touched because i shook the machine up a bit it looks like it is poorly designed because they are so close any knock would make them touch. I phoned the agent because it has two days left on its warranty and he told me the warranty is now null and void because I opened it up . Silly me. I did a little exploring and they bought alot of these machines but stopped bringing them in because they gave trouble. Can these things be fixed .The supplier says they cant get these pc boards anymore. Any thing I can salvage out of the machine? I see there are two fans. Maybe I can make a biltong machine.?

Black_Moons
08-16-2011, 03:21 PM
Call them back, and this time don't tell them you opened it up.

Doubtful you'll get the same person. Hopefuly you did'nt give em the S/N number yet.. :P

Asshole warrenty policys likey cost these companys a lot. as is, I won't even TOUCH things under warrenty even if I know I could fix it in 5 minutes, because I know they will use it as an excuse to void my warrentee if anything else went wrong or my fix does not work. Bastards.

macona
08-16-2011, 03:49 PM
Is there anything in the paperwork about opening it and voiding warranty?

I have found very few companies will actually terminate your warranty if you open the unit. Its even expected on most commercial machines that you would open it.

Even Apple will honor your warranty on your mac mini if it was opened, well, so as long as you didnt do anything stupid.

The machine probably blew whatever switching semiconductor they used. Mosfets are really popular with chinese designers.

J Tiers
08-17-2011, 12:12 AM
Since you opened it * , a picture is worth a thousand words.... no picture no helpee, 'cause we have no idea what you are looking at.

Absolutely no telling what blew, if anything, from only a word explanation of a completely unknown unit. But arc marks are never a good sign. Maybe something fell in and shorted things that should not be shorted.

The good news is that a welding power pack is DESIGNED to make big sparks, at least out by the work, so it often is built fairly ruggedly.

Take off the cover (take some pictures) and look for fuses. It's always possible that noting really bad happened, chinese unit or not. Blown fuses might be indications of fatal damage, or not. It's always possible they did their job and protected the circuitry....

*
NEVER tell anyone you opened it if the unit is under warranty, and be super careful with the screwdriver if you do open it. They look for scarred screwheads.

plunger
08-28-2011, 01:31 PM
An update on my welder. After speaking to a couple of different people at the suppliers I eventually asked to speak to the owner of the business. After reluctently being put through to him by the sales director the owner told me they had problems with these machines and will ensure I have a new one within an hour. I just dont understand why I have to have so much trouble from everyone else.
Any today I learned a good lesson. Dont work in your workshop using slipslops. My new tig cart fell on top of me when I tripped over my slops and now I got a cut lip and a black eye.

Black Forest
08-28-2011, 01:49 PM
what are slipslops? If they are like flip flops then what the hell are you doing in the shop wearing them! Rhetorical question!

plunger
08-28-2011, 01:57 PM
I thought that seeing that its sunday I would like to be comfortable and I am only doing light duty work it should be no problem. I am amazed how heavy two of these argon bottles are.I came of very lucky These can crack your skull

derekm
08-28-2011, 02:05 PM
On a lot of the chinese inverters tigs the fans blow the dust they eat on to the circuit boards. Not very clever in a welding shop where people use angle grinders on metal creating lots of conductive dust. However, you can prevent a lot this by fitting a filter or a baffle to stop most of dust getting in.

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/picture.php?albumid=1222&pictureid=5279

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/picture.php?albumid=1222&pictureid=5282

psomero
08-28-2011, 04:06 PM
if the big things under the heatsinks blew, you're probably SOL. They could be a few different types of component, like FET, IBGT or big transistor, but they are the heart of your power supply and the release of their magic smoke means they need replacing.

you could cross refrence part numbers on them, if there is any clearly indicated on the package, then replace them yourself; but if this thing is new, kick it back to the slimebag that sold it to you...

MrSleepy
08-28-2011, 04:37 PM
Not wanting to hi jack the thread.....but.

Is that a Maximat V13 in the background..

Rob

plunger
08-28-2011, 05:25 PM
Very observant Rob. I thought there may have been a comment about my buffer built into my radial arm saw to save space. Unlike yours though it has a permanent gap and a very very long crosslide. The only v13 gap bed I ever heard off

MrSleepy
08-28-2011, 07:18 PM
Unlike yours though it has a permanent gap and a very very long crosslide. The only v13 gap bed I ever heard off

Now that would be handy..
I have a gapped bed Harrison L5 for larger items....which I could get rid off if my V13 was gapped..

I've never seen another gapped v13...how unique is that..:)

Rob

plunger
08-29-2011, 03:00 AM
Rob it has its disadvantages. I choose to use a Chinese 3 jaw instead of the original because if I am facing or parting close to the chuck I have to wind the crosslide closer. If I dont the gear winds off the rack and I have to pull the carriage back by hand untill it hooks back up with the rack. This overhang is a concern as I am always worried the crosslide might snap eg while I am parting if it had to dig.Also all the swarf has a tendency to land up under the saddle because the saddle is always hanging in the gap if I am working close to the chuck. I am sure rigidity is compromised. In fact I wanted to try and make a gap but it may be above my ability,

MrSleepy
08-29-2011, 07:22 AM
I am sure rigidity is compromised. In fact I wanted to try and make a gap but it may be above my ability,

Does it look like it was factory done...If so..they usually beef up the casting to compensate...Did it not come with the gap section...

Rob

MrSleepy
08-29-2011, 07:35 AM
I choose to use a Chinese 3 jaw

When I bought mine it came with the original chuck...but without any jaws (the school removed them ...as a safety feature:rolleyes:).
The seller bundled 200mm chinese 3&4 jaw chucks with it...which are pretty good..to be fair ...but the extra rotating mass kept overheating (I assume) the motor brake lining..making it stick solid.
So I eventuall bought an "as new" 150mm Pratt Burnerd Super Precision in an auction...which is a great chuck.

Rob.