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View Full Version : Finished CO2 adapator!



Black_Moons
08-31-2011, 03:16 PM
http://imgur.com/NvHj9l.jpg
http://imgur.com/NvHj9.jpg
http://imgur.com/dBAvHl.jpg
http://imgur.com/dBAvH.jpg
http://imgur.com/JjrA2l.jpg
http://imgur.com/JjrA2.jpg

My finished CO2 adapator, Typical ulgy finish due to mild steel. Might make future ones outta leaded steel or something I guess. Or just pay more attention to my tooling.. got a nice finish at the tip, and ok on the threads.

Works great however. the CO2 remote hose holds about a clips worth of CO2 before you notice the pressure drop off much (down to about 500psi from 800psi after 16 shots) after you turn the tank off. heh.

Can fire as much as I want and not notice any 'chill' effect droping my pressure, before, after the 2nd clip (each clip is 16 shots), you'd notice the pressure drop off unless you let it warm up. Used to only get 4 good clips outta a 12g CO2 cart, and a 5th underpowered one that usally had chill problems due to being outta CO2 and cold from the previous clips.

I estimate I should get around 2000 rounds to a 12oz tank (Looked at 20oz tanks, and while they are 30% cheaper to fill per oz around here, they won't fit into a pocket, and 2000 rounds is enough :)

Costs $4 to refill a 12oz tank here, The cheapest I can get 25 12g powerlets is $19. (Takes 28 12g powerlets to equal one 12oz tank)
So, basicly 5 times cheaper to use a bulk tank.
(as a subnote, it costs about $17 for a 1250 pack of pellets, or $5 for 1500 bb's (my gun shoots both)

Now its actualy worth it to shoot BB's if I wanna save a little money.

Also the gun is convertable back to CO2 powerlets very easily. all I did was remove the pin that keeps the CO2 jackscrew from rotating more then 90~ degrees, unscrewed it (Unscrewed a little part from above it as well), And screwed in my adapator. No mods to the case at all (although the pin was a little pesky to remove, it came out nicely with plyers, Not needed to convert the gun back to powerlets), And the little detent pin/spring was removed so I would'nt lose it (Again, Not needed, and did'nt really detent in the right place anyway. The force of a loaded CO2 cart keeps it from spining anyway)

As an intresting subnote, the adapator is left hand threaded, So I don't have to worry about it getting stuck in the gun, Wrenching the NPT fiting tighter removes the adapator. Trying to wrench the adapator in too tight will remove the NPT fitting. (The adapator really only needs to be slightly more then finger tight anyway)

Also filed the tip of the adapator to provide a nice smooth surface for the gun to seal to, since the lathe finish was not that great.

(PS, While the middle picture shows it with a quick disconnect nipple, I removed that after realising how much quick disconnects suck, And replaced it with just connecting the hose directly, as its easy enough to remove the adapator should I want to disconnect the hose from the gun)

macona
08-31-2011, 03:42 PM
Try 1144. Wont rust like 12L44.

-Jerry

Black_Moons
08-31-2011, 03:52 PM
Try 1144. Wont rust like 12L44.

-Jerry

Yea rust is one of my big conserns. I don't wanna use aluminum because of galling with the aluminum (or potmetal?) gun frame. Stainless might be a choice if I try selling em, though it seems a little overkill.

I should be oiling the gun anyway. (fill the co2 line up with oil and let it slowly blow through every time I turn the pressure back on?), so I hope it won't rust much, as rust in the air line would likey screw up the seals..

madwilliamflint
08-31-2011, 04:33 PM
That's excellent! I was actually theorizing about such a rig this weekend with a buddy of mine.

achtanelion
08-31-2011, 05:09 PM
That's excellent! Just the style I like to use on Crosman 22XX guns, adapted for a different gun. I may have to "borrow" this for my Crosman 38C.

J

Ironheart
09-02-2011, 12:15 AM
Yea rust is one of my big conserns. I don't wanna use aluminum because of galling with the aluminum (or potmetal?) gun frame.

A little dab of anti-seize (sp) compound would stop the galling problem

Ironheart...

macona
09-02-2011, 02:00 AM
No stainless either. Thats worse than the aluminum.

dp
09-02-2011, 02:07 AM
Acetal won't work?

Black_Moons
09-02-2011, 02:23 AM
Acetal won't work?

Acetal at 800psi+? (Nominal, Judging from the charts, 1500psi could be reasonabley expected on a hot day, and the 'burst disk' on the CO2 tank is set to 3000psi)

I hardly wanna use (6061) aluminum at that pressure.... (Not that I have a friggen clue about the actual stress limits involved, but then, the CO2 12g tanks are like 2mm thick steel and not much thicker around then where my 1/8" NPT connection threads inside, And I think I only have 3 or 4mm worth of metal.. compermised by threads on the outside, and threads on the inside)

So what metals could I use if I wanted reasonable machine finish, non galling with potmetal/aluminum, no or little corrosion, No fatigue problems, and idealy very damn strong?

Id think only the lead based or other 'free machining' steels fit the bill, Except they corrode. (But then damnit, keep your gun dry and oiled!)

Maybe I should just use steel and paint it...

914Wilhelm
09-02-2011, 02:58 AM
Is it possible to refill the tanks yourself by filling them with crushed dry ice which is about 2 bucks a pound?

macona
09-02-2011, 03:03 AM
As I mentioned before, 1144 stressproof. Turns nice, won't rust like 12l14. If you wanted to you could do a black oxide dip afterwards.

Or you can make it from aluminum and then have it hard anodized.

Black_Moons
09-02-2011, 04:10 AM
Is it possible to refill the tanks yourself by filling them with crushed dry ice which is about 2 bucks a pound?

Maybe, but I have no idea what oxygen/nitrogen contamination does as CO2 trys to liquify, Could greatly incress the pressure. I think i'll stick to the $4 refills at the local place that has the scales and everything to do it, I have no idea if anyone in my small town even sells dry ice.

the 12g tanks would be nearly impossable to refill, as they only have a TINY hole in the neck. Also be annoying having to put them in the gun and wait for it to melt.

gzig5
09-02-2011, 11:20 AM
As I mentioned before, 1144 stressproof. Turns nice, won't rust like 12l14. If you wanted to you could do a black oxide dip afterwards.

Or you can make it from aluminum and then have it hard anodized.

They cold blues work pretty well on 1144 too. Not an impervious surface finish, but it looks better and as long as you give it a wipe with an oiled cloth once ins a while, it won't rust.

dp
09-03-2011, 12:36 AM
Acetal at 800psi+? (Nominal, Judging from the charts, 1500psi could be reasonabley expected on a hot day, and the 'burst disk' on the CO2 tank is set to 3000psi)

Mea culpa! I did not know that much pressure was presented to the weapon. And to be honest I'm amazed that little coil cord is up to the task. Tough stuff! Is there a safety mechanism in the control head to keep the shooter from being beat to a pulp if the hose should pop off?

Black_Moons
09-03-2011, 03:01 PM
Mea culpa! I did not know that much pressure was presented to the weapon. And to be honest I'm amazed that little coil cord is up to the task. Tough stuff! Is there a safety mechanism in the control head to keep the shooter from being beat to a pulp if the hose should pop off?

Yea, I was amazed CO2 was that high too, I allways expected like 200~400psi due to the fact co2 canisters did'nt appear to be built like the 2000psi+ cylinders from the pictures iv seen.

No safty mechanism at all, other then the fact your only supposed to crack the valve on the tank open and not wide open.

Id expect liquid CO2 comming out and freezeing you to be nearly as bad (or worse) as the hose whip if the hose came undone..

Even the quick disconnects don't have any provision for blocking the flow once disconnected.. And as I learned, kinda explode if you disconnect em at pressure.