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Chris S.
09-27-2011, 09:22 AM
This link was found in the "Shop Made Tools" sticky. I imagine he's describing pressure exerted between the pin and the back of the chuck, but what's a "Pickle Fork"? I would think that something designed to spear pickles wouldn't be very stout or hard.

http://thevirtualbarandgrill.com/machinery/pictures.html

Chris

T.Hoffman
09-27-2011, 09:30 AM
This link was found in the "Shop Made Tools" sticky. I imagine he's describing pressure exerted between the pin and the back of the chuck, but what's a "Pickle Fork"? I would think that something designed to spear pickles wouldn't be very stout or hard.

Around here, a pickle fork tool is mostly associated with separating ball joints and tie rods.

sasquatch
09-27-2011, 09:30 AM
Pickle fork is just a term used to describe a tool that looks similar, usually they are used for separating ball joints or tie rod ends, and are a strong tool.

Chris S.
09-27-2011, 10:41 AM
Thanks for the replies guys. I think I've seen what you're describing but I remember them being fairly large with a long handle on them. Anyone have a link to a photo?

Thanks,
Chris

Chris S.
09-27-2011, 10:47 AM
Never mind, I found some pix. All makes sense now!

Chris

vpt
09-27-2011, 01:50 PM
Can we talk about cherry pickers now?

EVguru
09-27-2011, 03:55 PM
Pickle fork is just a term used to describe a tool that looks similar, usually they are used for separating ball joints or tie rod ends, and are a strong tool.

No, no, no! They're a device for ruining the boot on a ball joint! :D

I've never used anything other than leverage between the pin and taper and a good solid blow to the side of the taper to shock the joint loose.

rode2rouen
09-27-2011, 04:05 PM
No, no, no! They're a device for ruining the boot on a ball joint! :D




When one of my "pickle forks" comes out of the tool box, the ball joint or tie rod end is beyond caring about the condition of its boot! :p


Rex

dp
09-27-2011, 04:51 PM
This link was found in the "Shop Made Tools" sticky. I imagine he's describing pressure exerted between the pin and the back of the chuck, but what's a "Pickle Fork"? I would think that something designed to spear pickles wouldn't be very stout or hard.

http://thevirtualbarandgrill.com/machinery/pictures.html

Chris

That is my site - that particular grab bag of images are a snaps of things I've done or tried but which haven't made it to an article yet at http://MetalWorkingAtHome.com/

The pickle fork I used is one I bought at HF just for that rescue. Not a great tool but it got the job done.

Chris S.
09-27-2011, 07:05 PM
That is my site - that particular grab bag of images are a snaps of things I've done or tried but which haven't made it to an article yet at http://MetalWorkingAtHome.com/

The pickle fork I used is one I bought at HF just for that rescue. Not a great tool but it got the job done.

Well, I have a Jacobs Super Chuck that has no shoulder on the MT shank, so I couldn't use a wedge or drift. I drilled a 1/4" hole up through the jaws to gain access to the face of the MT so I could drive it off with a 1/4" round punch rod. So far I'm just bending the punch. I think I'm going to drill it out to a 1/2" to use a larger punch, or maybe I'll try my air hammer.

Chris

Black_Moons
09-27-2011, 07:10 PM
Protip: a crecent wrench is not a pickle fork, No matter how much it might look like it can get the drill chuck off, It won't. Also, you'll rip the chrome plating off in the process. Ask me how I know :rolleyes:

vpt
09-27-2011, 08:38 PM
No, no, no! They're a device for ruining the boot on a ball joint! :D

I've never used anything other than leverage between the pin and taper and a good solid blow to the side of the taper to shock the joint loose.


Get one of these, used it many many times and have yet to ruin a boot or the threads/shaft. Used it today in fact.

http://www.automotivetools.com/Technic-Tool/Specialty-Tool-Ball-Joint-Separator-21mm-Mercedes-BMW-VW-Audi/TTS1083-21/669/Image.ashx?i=Product&g=th-tts1083.jpg

Don Young
09-27-2011, 09:08 PM
Well, I have a Jacobs Super Chuck that has no shoulder on the MT shank, so I couldn't use a wedge or drift. I drilled a 1/4" hole up through the jaws to gain access to the face of the MT so I could drive it off with a 1/4" round punch rod. So far I'm just bending the punch. I think I'm going to drill it out to a 1/2" to use a larger punch, or maybe I'll try my air hammer.

Chris
One problem with this procedure is the relative inertia of the chuck and spindle. It helps a whole lot if you have something not just strong but also really heavy behind the chuck. If you can get any initial tension on the joint before punching it will also help. A 1/4" punch probably compresses enough from the blow to absorb some of the force and a larger punch is definitely better. A short punch is also better than a long one.

Don't try to tap or drive the part out gently. Get set up with the biggest hammer you can handle and hit it as hard as you can, like you were trying to drive the punch INTO the end of the shaft. (My Dad used to say:"Don't play with it, hit it like you mean it!" and it usually worked.)

Chris S.
09-27-2011, 11:08 PM
Don't try to tap or drive the part out gently.

If all else fails I have a backup plan.... I have a few pounds of 2400 and Unique sitting on my reloading shelf. :D

Chris S.
09-27-2011, 11:13 PM
Protip: a crecent wrench is not a pickle fork, No matter how much it might look like it can get the drill chuck off, It won't. Also, you'll rip the chrome plating off in the process. Ask me how I know :rolleyes:

I can't find a reference to a crecent wrench in this thread?? :confused:

Chris

EVguru
09-28-2011, 04:24 AM
Well, I have a Jacobs Super Chuck that has no shoulder on the MT shank, so I couldn't use a wedge or drift. I drilled a 1/4" hole up through the jaws to gain access to the face of the MT so I could drive it off with a 1/4" round punch rod. So far I'm just bending the punch. I think I'm going to drill it out to a 1/2" to use a larger punch, or maybe I'll try my air hammer.

Chris

Tap the hole in the back of the chuck, then use a bolt to push it off the arbor.

Chris S.
09-28-2011, 10:41 AM
Tap the hole in the back of the chuck, then use a bolt to push it off the arbor.

That would be a great idea except for the fact that there's very little clearance to the face of the JT. I'll re-check the clearance though.

Chris

kendall
09-28-2011, 12:32 PM
When one of my "pickle forks" comes out of the tool box, the ball joint or tie rod end is beyond caring about the condition of its boot! :p


Rex

Same, I figure the only reason to be 'nice' to a ball joint is if you plan on re-using it, and frankly ball joints are cheap enough that it's safer and more cost effective to replace them.