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Weston Bye
10-09-2011, 11:52 AM
I have a job where I have to glue down a granite surface plate-like block to a concrete surface. The block will have a rubber bumper on the stopping surface to absorb some of the shock of the door striking it. I can't lag the block down or otherwise disturb the concrete, as there are heating elements embedded. The block is about 6 by 12 or 14 inches of surface area where it will rest on the concrete. The door is fairly heavy. The location is in a climate where freezing is possible if the slab heaters are turned off, so the block will be sealed as best as possible from water intrusion.

Suggestions?

John Stevenson
10-09-2011, 12:02 PM
Weston,
Sounds like a job for poxy resin.

lynnl
10-09-2011, 12:16 PM
Check with a local grave stone company. They can steer you to (or provide) just the right stuff.

wierdscience
10-09-2011, 12:30 PM
I've mounted air compressors with nothing more than silicone caulk.Degrease both surfaces and apply in 1/4 beads,set it and forget it.

If you want a stronger more rigid bond Hilti makes several grades of construction epoxy for the purpose.

dave5605
10-09-2011, 12:31 PM
Even the standard construction adhesive for concrete works great. I had to knock off a 4x4 piece of lumber off my garage floor that the builder glued down to stop cars from hitting the furnace/hot water tank.

I banged it off with a big sledge and the concrete gave way before the glue/wood. Big time rough patch of concrete now.

914Wilhelm
10-09-2011, 12:42 PM
Silicon caulking will give more resilience when banged with a door and decrease the chance of chipping and breaking when a door wacks it. A side benefit is when you have remorse with the placement you can remove it by sawing it off with piano wires and/or long butcher knives, not an option with epoxy or grout. I've successfully rescued granite countertops glued down with silicon that home owners were going to trash during remodels. It nice to salvage something someone else spent $100/sqft for :) . If you are positive it will never change position and you want it solidly fixed in place then tile "thin set" used to set stone or porcelain floor tiles is cheap and easy.

DFMiller
10-09-2011, 12:55 PM
Wes,
I would go for silicone adhesive or one of the construction adhesives from Hilti.

Silicone adhesive should be much easier to get and much cheaper.

Dave

Evan
10-09-2011, 01:16 PM
If you use Silicone make sure to buy a product that is rated for concrete use. Since silicone products are promoted by acetic acid many formulations will be inactivated by alkaline materials.

mike4
10-10-2011, 08:48 PM
Weston,
Sounds like a job for poxy resin.
If you dont ever want it to move I would suggest Chemset an epoxy material used to secure anchor bolts into concrete .
I have used it to fix machines in place in supermarkets and the only way to remove the machines is to take the nuts off and lift the machine up and the cut the bolts off with an angle grinder.
Michael

lakeside53
10-10-2011, 09:38 PM
Polyurethene caulk (like PL) will glue just about anything. I glue 6mil plastic sheet to rough concrete foundations for vapor barrier seal. Some has been down for 15 years and it's not coming off :)

JoeLee
10-10-2011, 09:56 PM
E6000 is a good industrial adheasive that I've used for brick and concrete. This is tough stuff.

http://www.eclecticproducts.com/e6000_retail.htm


JL.......................

tryfred
10-10-2011, 10:07 PM
I know that GE Silicone II is a favorite in the monument business…used to keep the headstone attached to the base so that it was difficult if not impossible to vandalize/tip the monuments over.

A penny was used on the inside of each corner to act as a permanent non corrosive spacer so that the silicone did not get squeezed out and to keep the stone from sliding on the base until the silicone set.

Joe

Evan
10-10-2011, 10:33 PM
Be careful when buying GE Silicone II. If it is too old it will not set up. It should have an expiry date on the package or tube. Keep that in mind if you store a partly used tube too. Nothing is messier than trying to clean up unset silicone well enough to reglue. Note that Silicone I does not have that problem.

rmwise
10-10-2011, 11:33 PM
As others have said, for a permanent (i.e. demolition tools required to remove) mount, concrete epoxies are the way to go. I use Red Head C6 to set hardened (B7) allthread anchors for lifts and it's stronger than the concrete.

A little more forgiving would be an epoxy grout, most forgiving would be the silicone route. Grout would require that the mating surfaces are both a little rough for the best bond.

Weston Bye
12-06-2012, 02:05 PM
I was going through some old threads looking for something else, but ran across this one. I suppose an update would be in order.

I used ordinary RTV silicone to good effect. I put a 1/8" film of RTV on the bottom surface of the block, and after dry scrubbing and using compressed air to blow away the dust from the concrete surface, I tipped the block into place. I pressed it down and moved it around slightly until the silicone squeezed out the sides a little. I cleaned up the excess that squeezed out and left a continuous unbroken fillet of silicone between the base and the concrete.

It has endured a little over a year now, all seasons including freezing and thawing, with no sign of movement or failure.

darryl
12-06-2012, 05:42 PM
Thanks for posting the update. It's always good to hear what the final result was.

KiddZimaHater
12-06-2012, 08:27 PM
Try REDHEAD Concrete anchoring epoxy.
This is some serious stuff.
We anchored out big VMC's to the concrete floor with their epoxy, and it worked great.
REDHEAD Concrete Epoxy (http://www.itwredhead.com/adhesives.php)

Stepside
12-07-2012, 08:05 PM
Weston

This must have been before your "Magnet Phase".

Pete