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jrude
10-10-2011, 01:14 PM
Now that I have my recently acquired 1hp step pulley Bridgeport cleaned and semi-repaired, I have been looking at the dealers electric website at 115V VFDs. There are limited options for a 115v unit, but Teco and TB Woods both make 1hp units, and TB Woods also made 1.5hp units.

Apparently there's a catch though, in that TB Woods got bought out by Vacon in 2007, and I can't find the TB Woods surplus VFDs anywhere on Vacon's website.

Does anyone have an manual for the TB Woods drives in electronic format? IE one that shows the terminals, terminal functions, wiring suggestions, braking resistor resistance values, input and output filters, etc? I found online installation manuals for Hitachi, Mitsubishi, Teco, and basically every other drive manufacturer except for TB Woods.

I really would like to get the 1.5hp VFD instead of the 1.0hp VFD but I'm a little hesitant to buy a TB Woods based on the perceived lack of support and inability to review if the installation prior to purchase.

I know some will recommend to buy a VFD with 220V input, but other things have come up and I won't have time to install or use a new 220V drop for many months (electrical permit related). If I get the machine up and running with a 115V drive I can use it now, and if I need to in the future, I can swap it out for a larger drive with a larger motor retrofit and a 220V drop. A motor retrofit is probably not going to happen for many years though.

Thanks

Tait
10-10-2011, 02:25 PM
I have a larger Vacon VFD, but no Woods and no smaller.

As a suggestion, I do want to mention this drive on eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/190451419673) - if you don't need a dedicated reverse switch, it is NEMA 4X, works well and can be configured for 115V or 220V in with 3Ph out.

If you decide you might be interested, I don't have an electronic manual, but can try to answer any questions.

jrude
10-10-2011, 02:52 PM
Thanks.

Based on the input current requirements of the 115V VFDs I think I'm just going to buy a 1.0hp unit after all. I found a 1.5hp AC Tech VFD with a 115V input, and it requires 24A. I suspect the TB Woods drive is similar with respect to current requirements.

ammcoman2
10-10-2011, 06:37 PM
I've had a 115v input, 1hp Teco unit running my 1hp Westinghouse motor on my mill for a number of years now. Never had a problem. If you are concerned you can set the current limiting function but I never did.

Geoff

macona
10-10-2011, 07:16 PM
I have a small woods 115v unit on my tool grinder, only 1/2hp. Might use the same parameters. The woods one I have is actually made by Baldor.

justanengineer
10-10-2011, 11:33 PM
The Teco on my Bport accepts both 110 and 220 inputs, has no problem running the 1hp motor on a 15 amp breaker, and was only $90 on sale.

Shop carefully. Not all VFDs are built equal.

jrude
10-11-2011, 09:26 PM
Thanks everyone. Today I ordered the Teco 1hp 115v unit from delaer electric. It's the one with the pot on the front, not the older version. They said I should get it in 2-3 days. Now all I have to do are find some collets and end mills and I can be testing it out this weekend.

Thanks

lakeside53
10-11-2011, 09:28 PM
One small point -you can't run those 115v vfds on a GFCI circuit.

Tait
10-11-2011, 10:18 PM
One small point -you can't run those 115v vfds on a GFCI circuit.

Is it harmful to the VFD? I've been running two of them on a 115v GFCI circuit and it seems to work - is it hurting the VFD or the motor? Or is it just a case of triggering the GFCI?

lakeside53
10-11-2011, 10:29 PM
Won't hurt the VFD - the noise generated is filtered by the VFD to ground; that is seen by the gfci as a ground leak. I have two Teco 120 volt units that will not work with new "residential" gfci.

J Tiers
10-11-2011, 11:55 PM
Several of the TB Woods units are actually made by Invertek in the UK. They are quite good full-featured VFDs, and the TB Woods version can be had from Dealer's Electric for as little as $99 for a 1 HP (230V).

jrude
10-12-2011, 11:15 AM
My shop does not have a GFCI breaker. It's just a standard breaker.

Once my permit issues are worked out early next year (I'm not applying until Jan given end of year travel) I'll be running new power to the shop, which will solve my 115V "problem".

lakeside53
10-12-2011, 12:07 PM
Permit? That may expose another issue - If your shop is an attached garage, around here GFCI are now required by NEC on all 120 outlets unless dedicated and behind (like a fridge).

DR
10-12-2011, 12:38 PM
One thing about the Teco 1hp, 115V input units, they only go to 60hz.

At least that's the way mine is. But, someone mentioned the "new" models , mounted speed pot, which mine doesn't, maybe they go higher.

The 60hz limit has been a minor irritation to me since I run a step pulley machine with it. I would prefer to be able to over speed the 1725rpm motor (maybe 120hz) to have a wider speed range with the belt in a slower groove.

ammcoman2
10-12-2011, 06:49 PM
The Teco unit I bought (FM50) definitely goes above 60Hz when programmed. I have it set to 90 max but I gather that 120Hz is doable.

Geoff

justanengineer
10-12-2011, 07:45 PM
The Teco unit I bought (FM50) definitely goes above 60Hz when programmed. I have it set to 90 max but I gather that 120Hz is doable.


Mine goes 1-200Hz but I limit it to 120. It also came from the factory with a lower limit setting of 60 Hz to protect the motor from being run too slow and burning up, which might be where DR got his 60 Hz figure. I have since reprogrammed it for a 45 Hz lower limit.

lakeside53
10-12-2011, 09:11 PM
The FM50 goes up to 200hz. With a typcial motor I normally limit it to 90hz with a low of 15.

Out of the box it's set to a MAX of 60hz so users can't over-speed motors - you have to program it to change that.

jrude
10-13-2011, 09:21 AM
Permit? That may expose another issue - If your shop is an attached garage, around here GFCI are now required by NEC on all 120 outlets unless dedicated and behind (like a fridge).

My "workshop" garage is a detached two car 24'x24'. My other garage, which used to be 100% mine but now my wife parks here car in it, is attached. Luckily there's still enough room to fit my tractor in it next to her car.

The permit issue arose when I went to pull the permit for the 220V power retrofit (permit required here for upgrade / repair) and the permit office said "there's no detached garage on your property", which means either whoever built it never pulled the permit, or the permit office didn't document it. My neighbor says it was built by the contractor who built the house at the same time the house was built in 2003 but recollection doesn't go far with a bureaucratic organization. The permit office has no record of it. I've been paying taxes on it every year since we moved here and the property tax people know it's there. The structure has shown up on every survey I can dig up and appears in all the satellite photos on the imap system. I'm hoping once I pull the permit for the garage in January (I don't have time prior to Jan) everything goes smoothly and it's more of a "pay the fees and move on with life" type transaction.