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Black Forest
11-13-2011, 12:35 PM
I was thinking of buying a Hardinge lathe for threading purposes. I have read they are the best manual machine for theading. Also parts are available.

It has the EM gear box and full collet sets. I am not sure about a chuck.

I don't have a lot of the particulars yet so I can't even ask what you all think it might be worth.

From the pictures I saw of the machine it looks to be in excellant shape at least optically.

There is a question in this post somewhere but I am not sure what it is!

Toolguy
11-13-2011, 12:57 PM
I used one that had a lever to control the carriage back and forth with a stop at the end of the thread and a lever on the toolpost to move it in and out. With that setup, it is a super easy and fast way to cut threads on a manual machine.

DATo
11-13-2011, 04:10 PM
Blackie : Anticipating ALL your questions I respectfully submit the following *LOL*

The Hardinge is an excellent lathe and if one could be picked up in good shape for a decent price I would jump on it. Not only is it a very precise machine but it really does shine in the threading department. Read what I've written below while comparing my terms to the picture of the Hardinge.

http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/z430/D-D-DATonian/Hardinge.jpg

The lathe has two vertical levers in front of the headstock. The one closest to the lathe, when pushed to the right, gets the headstock rotating at the higher end of the speed range, when pushed to the left it goes into low speed. The lever in front of this one is for threading. There is a long shaft that runs the length of the lathe located beneath the lead screw and accessible to the operator. This shaft has a round bushing with a set screw. Note; You can see the shaft and bushing clearly in the picture. When the machine is threading the apron eventually engages the preset bushing and automatically turns off the feed. At this point the operator pulls back on a small lever located on top of the compound to pull the threading tool away. Note: Lever in pict is just in front of the compound dial. Now the operator throws the threading shaft (the front-most vertical lever) in the direction of the tailstock and the machine reverses the feed toward the tailstock. Once the tool clears the workpiece the lever on the compound is thrust forward once again and the threading tool is exactly in the same DEPTH position it was in at the end of the previous cut. The operator then feeds in on the compound dial for the next cut and throws the vertical threading lever to the left. The process repeats itself till the thread is cut.

So ...

1) you throw the vertical threading lever and the feed is engaged. The tool is cutting the first thread

2) The feed stops when the apron of the lathe connects with the preset bushing.

3) At the end of the cut the tool is pulled out and away from the workpiece, not by turning the CROSS FEED as on a normal lathe, but by pulling back on a lever located on the top of the compound. The tool is pulled out in one swift movement.

4) Then, immediately, the threading lever (long vertical outboard-most lever) is pulled in the direction of the tailstock and the apron of the lathe moves back toward the starting point of the thread.

5) The small lever on the compound is thrust forward and the tool bit goes back to the exact same place it was at (in depth) when you finished the last cut. You don't have to waste time re-zeroing the cross feed. The lever does all that for you and VERY quickly.

6) You feed in the amount you want to remove next and then push the outside lever toward the headstock and another cut takes place.

The whole idea is that you never have to pull the cross feed back to clear the thread when you go back to the starting point. The little lever on top of the compound does that very quickly. Also, you never have to use the thread chasing dial (in fact the Hardinge does not have one) or have to worry about stopping the thread cut: the cut stops automatically when the apron hits the preset bushing stop. You can thread very, VERY quickly this way once you get into a rhythm.

By the way ... the feed for threading is set by a gear box (located at the extreme left of the lathe) but the feed for normal turning is set by a dial at the tailstock end of the machine (not in picture). Note; The feed motor in picture can be seen attached to the right side of the apron. Turn the dial one way the feed rate speeds up - the other way it slows down (no gears to engage). The headstock speed adjustment is really cool. You just push a button and hold it down and the speed increases. Push another button and it decreases. You can see the speed control buttons on the control box above the headstock. As the speed increases or decreases a plunger either goes up or down in the thin vertical window to the right of the buttons so you can see your current speed against a chart. Note that on the chart there are two legends ... one is for the high range (inboard vertical lever to right) and the other is for low range (lever to left).

It's one hell of a beautiful machine to operate and it is so quiet that you do not even know it is on half the time. I use ours at work often.

aboard_epsilon
11-13-2011, 04:43 PM
never mind

Dan Dubeau
11-13-2011, 07:44 PM
Dato pretty much covered it. We have an HLV-H at work, and I LOVE threading on it. So quick to setup, and run, it's an absolute joy to use. If I could get an EM at home I'd be a happy man.

gwilson
11-13-2011, 08:21 PM
The HLVH is a very handy lathe for threading,but you'd better BE USED TO IT. It threads differently from other lathes,and you need to be in good practice,and on your toes to avoid a crash.

Extra gears for threads beyond the limited threading range are pretty expensive,plus you need the banjo and other bits and pieces.

Hardinge uses a special tooth form in their gears. A shortened 20 deg. pitch,IIRC. I don't see why you couldn't adapt other gears for special threading as long as they are all the same,since they don't mesh with any other gears.

I find mine very handy for threading ivory.

EVguru
11-14-2011, 05:13 AM
The manual warns not to attempt threading up to a shoulder at more than 1500rpm :D

uncle pete
11-14-2011, 07:32 AM
I wonder what those over 1500 rpm cra$he$ $ound like. :D

Pete

gwilson
11-14-2011, 07:54 AM
The Hardinge has adjustable carriage stops you can set for threading into recesses,and up to shoulders. They work to within .001" repeatability,if you want to set them up. When threading shallow ivory pill box lids,when I want to be sure to not shatter the ivory,I use the stop.. However,the stop will only STOP the tool advancing,and will leave a continuous ring cut around the threads at the shoulder,which you may not want to see. Therefore,you still need to be handy with the quick retract compound. It is definitely different,and things can happen fast at the speeds you can thread on the Hardinge. If you use more than 1 type of lathe,you need to be careful.

John Stevenson
11-14-2011, 08:11 AM
You can get this same idea as an attachment for a Myford, South Bend / Boxford, Emco and Sieg to allow you to thread to a shoulder at high speed.

justanengineer
11-14-2011, 10:58 AM
I suspect once you use a HLV you will only end up giggling at the thought of using an Asian machine again.

EVguru
11-14-2011, 11:30 AM
I suspect once you use a HLV you will only end up giggling at the thought of using an Asian machine again.

Unless it was a Feeler, Barer, Cyclematic or other HLV clone. Many of these are remarkably close to the quality of the original.

gwilson
11-14-2011, 11:59 AM
I have a Taiwan 16" lathe,but only ever use it for the larger jobs. The Hardinge is very well engineered for operator ease. It is tall,too,which is good for me. In fact,I wonder why they made it so tall.