PDA

View Full Version : Opinions wanted on large 3/4"-1" drill chucks



Chris165
02-04-2012, 11:12 AM
What are the views on large drill chucks in the 3/4"-1" cap range. I have keyless chucks for up to 5/8" but it would be nice to have a big keyed one. I'm looking at the ones that pop up every month in the ENCO/MSC sale flyers.
MSC: Accupro super duty ball bearing keyed,4JT,1/8-3/4,$109
5JT, 3/16-1, $169
ENCO: ROHM keyed, 3JT,3/16-3/4,$85.99

How is the ROHM (Made in germany) cheaper than the Accupro? I know it will come up about using large drills in a chuck, anything bigger than a standard S&D will be a MT shank drill. I would like the 3/4-1 cap for large chamfer tools.

Redirish
02-04-2012, 11:32 AM
Speaking from my experience with large drill chucks I can say that the Rohm is a fairly good chuck, having owned one. I had some very bad results with the MSC house brands ( Accu Pro ). The shop I was working in when I retired had a purchasing agent who was a bargain hunter, so when I ordered a Jacobs 18N ( 3/4" ), he changed the order and got a MSC house brand for about half the cost. It couldn't be tightened enough to hold a drill without slipping. I know the Jacobs are expensive, but that is what I use for a tailstock chuck with no problems at all. Hope this helps.

lakeside53
02-04-2012, 12:02 PM
Not all Rohm are high quality - they make "value" lines also. I have one that came with a Jet drill press. Not all that impressed. Had several smaller that were pretty much "asian import quality", but they were cheap.

For a 3/4 chuck, it's hard to beat a Jacobs 18N. I have one on the tailstock of my lathe. Got it used on ebay for less then $70.

PixMan
02-04-2012, 01:38 PM
Not all Rohm are high quality - they make "value" lines also. I have one that came with a Jet drill press. Not all that impressed. Had several smaller that were pretty much "asian import quality", but they were cheap.

For a 3/4 chuck, it's hard to beat a Jacobs 18N. I have one on the tailstock of my lathe. Got it used on ebay for less then $70.

Agreed. I won a nearly new 18N on a No.4 MT shank from Ebay for $40, + $10.50 for shipping.

I don't use a big drill chuck often, but when I do I prefer a ball bearing Jacobs!

Dr Stan
02-04-2012, 03:59 PM
Agreed. I won a nearly new 18N on a No.4 MT shank from Ebay for $40, + $10.50 for shipping.

I don't use a big drill chuck often, but when I do I prefer a ball bearing Jacobs!

that was a steal and worthy of a "tool gloat". :)

Rosco-P
02-04-2012, 05:56 PM
For the price of a chuck and arbor, you could buy quite a few used MT2, 3 or 4 shank drills.

Chris165
02-04-2012, 08:15 PM
For the price of a chuck and arbor, you could buy quite a few used MT2, 3 or 4 shank drills.

Thats kind of what i'm thinking. The majority of work I will be doing is 5/8" drills and smaller. My dad just picked me up a nice 3/4" chuck at a tool show today so that should cover almost everything I need to do. Most of the larger drills have a tang to keep them from rotating in the tail spindle. My 16" South Bend MT3 does not have any provision for a tang lock. Is this common on older lathes and is there a way of getting an aftermarket spindle with a tang lock?

morehelium
02-04-2012, 08:43 PM
For a large chuck I'd highly recommend a Jacobs 18N or 20N.

Both can be had off ebay for under $100. The large surfaces of a plain chuck cause a lot of friction and a large amount of the tightening torque on a large chuck is lost to friction.

With the Jacobs ball bearing chuck the difference is night and day. When firmly tightened they hold much better than a plain chuck and are especially nice for tapping.

Both the 18N and 20N are expensive new, but I bought a 20N in new condition with an arbor off ebay for $90. Very low demand for such a large chuck so they go cheap.

Chris

PixMan
02-04-2012, 09:51 PM
Thats kind of what i'm thinking. The majority of work I will be doing is 5/8" drills and smaller. My dad just picked me up a nice 3/4" chuck at a tool show today so that should cover almost everything I need to do. Most of the larger drills have a tang to keep them from rotating in the tail spindle. My 16" South Bend MT3 does not have any provision for a tang lock. Is this common on older lathes and is there a way of getting an aftermarket spindle with a tang lock?

The tang on a Morse taper shank tool isn't there as and anti-rotational device. It's there as a knockout device. It's the taper itself that is supposed to do the locking.

bborr01
02-04-2012, 10:09 PM
Not all Rohm are high quality - they make "value" lines also. I have one that came with a Jet drill press. Not all that impressed. Had several smaller that were pretty much "asian import quality", but they were cheap.

For a 3/4 chuck, it's hard to beat a Jacobs 18N. I have one on the tailstock of my lathe. Got it used on ebay for less then $70.

+1. I have a couple of 18N's and wouldn't trade them for anything else there is in a 3/4 inch chuck.

Brian

Jim Shaper
02-04-2012, 10:15 PM
18N is a heck of a chuck, and fills that "big sucker" role very well with it's 1/8" minimum capacity all the way to 3/4". Since it has such a wide usable range, it's very popular and that keeps the demand/price up.

The 20N isn't as popular for a couple reasons IMO - first, it's freaking HUGE. 1" shank drills aren't all that common since the advent of Silver and Deming shanks, so the need for 1" capacity is limited. The second detractor is that it only goes down to 3/8" - now that's a healthy size drill bit for the small side of it's range.

I tried grabbing another 18N off fleabay last month and the guy wouldn't take $80 plus shipping (automatic refusal for make offer), but ended up selling it at auction for $77. My nicest one came with my camelback drill - I got that for $60 (for the chuck) and it's practically new. That now lives on a cat 40 arbor for my cnc mill.

bborr01
02-04-2012, 10:29 PM
Here's one for you.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/JACOBS-BALL-BEARING-SUPER-CHUCK-NO-14N-CAPACITY-0-1-2-/230734720005?pt=BI_Tool_Work_Holding&hash=item35b8dc6c05

Brian

wierdscience
02-04-2012, 10:33 PM
If you can't find a deal on a Jacobs I would pick LFA over Rohm-

http://www.lfausa.com/

KBC has them reasonable-

http://kbctools.com/usa/Navigation/NavPDF.cfm?PDFPage=400

jkilroy
02-04-2012, 11:08 PM
For drills over 1/2 I tend to use collets. I also have quite a few taper shanks.

ammcoman2
02-05-2012, 09:09 AM
The Jacobs #36 and #37 are worth looking out for. Most folks are trying to get a used ball bearing version and these sometimes fly under the radar.

I have a #37KD ($20 at a flea market) in pristine condition which has a 1/4" - 3/4" range. I gather the later models went down to 3/16" or so.

I machined away the key slot on the back of the one I picked up and it now works like a charm. Amazing gripping power and very accurate (approx. 0.001" tir).

Geoff

flylo
02-05-2012, 09:47 AM
Holy cow Brian, I'm rich. Thanks for letting me know. Do you think it's a misprint or a joke or an attention getter? Some guy will pay $250 for it & brag about the deal he got. Thanks for showing that!:eek:





Here's one for you.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/JACOBS-BALL-BEARING-SUPER-CHUCK-NO-14N-CAPACITY-0-1-2-/230734720005?pt=BI_Tool_Work_Holding&hash=item35b8dc6c05

Brian

Andrew_D
02-05-2012, 10:08 AM
The tang on a Morse taper shank tool isn't there as and anti-rotational device. It's there as a knockout device. It's the taper itself that is supposed to do the locking.

Exactly...there seems to be lots of folks on both sides of that endless debate, however....

I'll tell a story that I experienced. I have a few MT5 shank drills. My lathe has an MT4 tailstock. So I needed an adapter. They aren't cheap at this price...But I found a MT5-> 1 3/4" straight adapter on eBay. I bought it and turned the 1 3/4" shank down to MT4. When I was done, I drilled the end and loctite'd in a 3/8" bolt. Cut it off to the appropriate length so that the bolt would extend into the tang-knock-out slot. Now obviously, that round bolt isn't doing any holding, so it must be the taper!

Andrew

P.S. I've also bought some used taper shank drills that have the tang half twisted off. Goes to show that the tang isn't going to stop rotation...

torker
02-05-2012, 10:26 AM
For large drills..I prefer MT taper shanks also. A chuck that big is going to be pricey...unless you luck out used. I'm with Darin tho...I love LFA chucks. Good rig for the money.
Russ

Chris165
02-05-2012, 01:17 PM
I think I'll use MT shank drills for any holes larger than a standard S&D bit since almost every size is available to me. The 3/4" I just got will work for any large c/s and mostly everything I need to do. Might pick up a real chuck 18N or 20N one of theese days. As far as the tang, I seem to have a problem with chucks spinning. The lathes that have a tang reviever dont seem to have that problem. My wood lathes sometimes spin the chuck, Sherline every time, 7x10 when i'm holding a tap in the drill chuck. I clean the shank before installing it so what else am I doing wrong.

lakeside53
02-05-2012, 09:37 PM
Your MT internal taper is probably worn. Ream it...

And.. never use oil on the MT taper.