PDA

View Full Version : How to tear down a Teel/Dayton jet/booster pump?



lvgoverseas
05-16-2012, 10:36 PM
Hi!

I have a Teel/Dayton jet/booster pump that's exactly like the one pictured here on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=p4340.l2557&rt=nc&nma=true&item=261014726940&si=RSDTq8aa1xZo6GIAfkOGLQ9i96w%253D&viewitem=&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc

The motor is a Dayton 9K860A wired to 230V operation, and the problem is that it's overheating badly. I've already established that the cap is good and that I'll need to replace the thermal overload device, which has gone permanently open circuit. I'm pretty sure that the reason for the overheating is that the motor needs a good cleaning -- it's been operating about 2 hours per week pumping water to our house for the last 15 years in a mini-shed that keeps the rain off but is open to the damp sea air and general urban pollution.

(I've cleaned the impellers before, and they need cleaning again, but I don't think that's the cause of the problem. Also, there's no problem with binding: the shaft turns freely.)

My problem is that I can't get inside the motor because I can't see how to separate the pump unit from the motor unit. It seems like a single shaft goes all the way through from the hexagonal pump end (ie where the 8 impellers are mounted) through to the bell end of the motor, where there's a governor device that switches from 'startup' to 'run' mode.

I've undone all the fasteners that I can see, and although I can separate the units by about 1/2 inch, I can't get any further than that because everything is still threaded onto the shaft. I can't go any further because at the motor end of the shaft, the motor body bumps up against the governor device (and at least one immovable ring) while at the pump end the pump unit bumps up against the shaft's (non-removable?) spring loaded spacer.

I figure there must be some trick to doing this that I can't figure out. Is it actually possible to remove one of these apparently permanently attached pieces? Or is there some way of somehow 'unlinking' the shaft internally?

Does anyone have any ideas/suggestions?

camdigger
05-17-2012, 12:48 AM
Can't tell. A picture of the unit as torn down as you have it will help.

Some impellors are installed directly onto the motor shaft.
Some motors only have one removeable end cap, yours may have to come apart at the impellor end. Again, pictures of the disassembly so far will tell more.

lvgoverseas
05-17-2012, 01:24 AM
Thanks Camdigger

I was trying to figure this out all day yesterday, and then a couple hours after posting, I found this pdf -- http://www.cityoforlando.net/public_works/projects/eolapdfs/Teel%20Pressure%20Booster%20Pumps%20Info.pdf

It turns out the pump's hex shaft and coupling simply unscrew from the motor's [threaded] drive shaft. It came off real easy too! And now I have access to the motor. Yay! I haven't got inside it yet, but it seems to come apart at the impeller end, and that looks to be fairly straightforward now I have access to the front plate.

So, disassembly problem solved! The next step is to open up the motor and figure out if I can fix it or if it'll need to be replaced...


ETA -- Oops, I spoke too soon. There was a clip retaining ring at the base of the drive shaft, and once I took that off I thought the faceplate would just slide up over the shaft. But it looks like the retaining ring wasn't really retaining anything (!!) because there's still what looks like a pressure fit(?) bearing that stops the faceplate from moving relative to the shaft (except for rotating of course). Unless it's just rusted to the shaft really really badly? (There's a *lot* of corrosion on the steel/cast iron parts of this motor).

And since there's what looks like a pressure fit bearing at the bell end as well....it looks like I still can't get inside this motor. This is a standard Nema 56J 1/3 HP Dayton 9K860A motor. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks.

camdigger
05-17-2012, 04:45 AM
Is what you are seeing the pressure seal illustrated on page 11 of the manual?

Have you managed to remov the front face off the motor as detailed in the motor replacement section on page 12?

Can you test run the motor sans rotor and housing to check start-up time?

lvgoverseas
05-17-2012, 06:44 AM
I'm not looking at the pressure seal -- the pressure seal is part of the pump unit and the motor and pump are now completely separated.

I think page 12 of that manual is talking about removing the motor from the pump, and yes, I've done that. (In the manual, they're giving instructions on how to *replace* the motor -- which I would be happy to do except that finding a replacement NEMA 56J motor out here -- I'm in Taiwan -- is probably going to mean shipping it out from the US...)

Meanwhile I've managed to pull the faceplate off using a gear puller. It was held in place by a pressure fit bearing which is still on the shaft. I think I should be able to take the whole thing apart now, but it's been a long day. I'll get back to it in the morning.

Thanks for your help and suggestions. I'll keep you posted....

And btw, I'm not sure what you mean about removing the rotor and housing to check the start up time?

camdigger
05-17-2012, 11:18 AM
What I was trying to suggest was to try to start up the motor with the pump removed to try to isolate any pump related drag issues from the motor mechanics. If you already have the motor end plate off, maybe the next thing to do is pull the rotor and look for crud inside the stator and /or bad bearings. Be very careful as some motors have spring loaded slip ring brushes and the like that make reassemly difficult without some kind of temporary retainer like a paper clip. As I recall, theswe are more common on DC motors rather than single phase AC motors.

If you're in Taiwan, you may be able to buy a complete replacement assembly for the same or less money as a matching replacement motor. If you are handy with machines (and have access to them), you could also convert the pump to an independent unit and power it with a Veebelt.

Sleep on it and let us know how you make out...

lvgoverseas
05-19-2012, 07:08 AM
UPDATE --

Well, I managed to pull the faceplate off with a gear puller, then I pulled the bearing off the shaft (it shattered during removal). After that there was just the fan assembly to remove -- it was on a spline, so it's easy to get on, but I deformed it considerably while I was getting it off.

So I got inside. Yay! But I was expecting... I dunno, brushes and commutators and whatever that I could inspect and clean. But it was just a squirrel cage rotor and a bunch of windings on the stator. Nothing 'user serviceable', and everything looked to be in pretty good condition anyway.

(I guess I'd never seen inside an induction motor before. It's a pretty clever design -- no moving parts!)

Anyway, once I had it in pieces, I thought I'd try it switching it to 110 V and hooking it up to see if I could get anything out of it at all. The shaft was on just one bearing at this point so I was a bit tentative -- but it seemed to have some life in it so I thought I might as well try to rebuild it and see if it magically works now. So I cleaned it up as best I could, and reassembled it (with a new bearing, obviously). Once I'd got the faceplate back into place to hold it all together, the shaft turned more smoothly so I was sort of encouraged -- I was beginning to think that maybe it was a faulty bearing after all instead of the wiring burning out?? -- but when I tested it again, it was still no go. The best I could get out of it was a worrying hum.

So right now it's gone into some kind of secret local shop, and they'll tell me on Tuesday if it's even possible for them to fix it. Meanwhile I'm trying to order a replacement anyway, because even if these guys can fix it, I figure it's better to have 2 working motors than 1 broken one.

The question now is how to get a replacement motor shipped from the US. I've found a couple of replacements that have the right specs -- http://store.kgpowersystems.com/JL3405A-Baldor-Single-Phase-Jet-Pump-Motor--TEFC--56J-NEMA-Frame-.33-HP--3600-RPM.aspx -- and -- http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/MARATHON-ELECTRIC-Pump-Duty-Motor-5TB76?cm_mmc=CSE:GoogleBase-_-Motors-_-Definite%20Purpose%20Motors-_-5TB76&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=5TB76 -- but I'm still trying to find out if I can get them shipped out here.

If anyone has any advice or suggestions or recommendations, I'd appreciate it!