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BobL
05-25-2012, 05:10 AM
I bought an old small metal cutting BS and have been slowly modifying/improving its operation.

Blade cooling.
Tank made from 6" PVC pipe holds 6.5 L of coolant
http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l570/BobLx/tank.jpg http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l570/BobLx/Onbaord.jpg

A Small Aquarium pump drives the fluid around the circuit. Power for the pump comes from a socket from motor switch
http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l570/BobLx/inside-tank.jpg

Mk II version of tank with fluid level window and click hose fittings for easy tank servicing.
http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l570/BobLx/tankmkII.jpg

BobL
05-25-2012, 05:11 AM
Coolant nozzles before and after the cut
http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l570/BobLx/Quadpipe2.jpg[/IMG]
http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l570/BobLx/Quadpipe.jpg[/IMG]

2) Handle upgrade to make adjustments easier
http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l570/BobLx/all3handles.jpg
http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l570/BobLx/twins.jpg

BobL
05-25-2012, 05:12 AM
3) Improved/easier adjustment on Vice including being able to bring vice jaws right up close to the blade for small pieces.
http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l570/BobLx/vice.jpg
http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l570/BobLx/Vice-close.jpg

Everything works good.

macona
05-25-2012, 05:37 AM
You might want to make sure the pump is off the bottom of the tank by several inches and there is a baffle to direct incoming water away from the pump. The rotor on those pumps is a pretty strong magnet and is exposed to the fluid. Magnetic particles and magnets in tight tolerances do not go well together.

BobL
05-25-2012, 06:55 AM
You might want to make sure the pump is off the bottom of the tank by several inches and there is a baffle to direct incoming water away from the pump. The rotor on those pumps is a pretty strong magnet and is exposed to the fluid. Magnetic particles and magnets in tight tolerances do not go well together.

Pump sits on a 1/2" thick piece of plastic above the bottom of the tank.
2 REE magnets are located next to the outlet of the gutter and there's one at the bottom of the tank.
I have a similar setup on my lathe (except the pump is about 3 times more powerful) which has been running successfully for about 12 months.
Very little metal is evident on the magnet inside the tank.

Black_Moons
05-25-2012, 08:57 AM
Damn, that is some really nice work! Simple, common parts, looks very effective. what more could you want? I love the vise adjustment! I may just go make a plate with a setscrew in it for that very perpose soon..

sasquatch
05-25-2012, 09:07 AM
Agree with Black Moons, well thought out use of basic materials,, thanks for posting this.

BobL
05-25-2012, 09:42 AM
Cheers Guys.

I use PVC pipe for a lot of things. Here are a couple of other examples.
http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l570/BobLx/PVCpipe.jpg
The two painted containers are chainsaw mill auxiliary oil tanks - the deliver a drip of oil onto the chain near the nose of the bar. The non painted containers on the right are my welding rod storage containers. They are made of storm water pipe.

Alan Smith
05-26-2012, 04:33 AM
That's a really good idea putting the auxiliary oil tank on your chainsaw mill, I'm certainly going to steal that one. Nice work.

Black_Moons
05-26-2012, 07:14 AM
lol at painting PVC with metalic paint. thats good one :0

BobL
05-26-2012, 10:06 AM
That's a really good idea putting the auxiliary oil tank on your chainsaw mill, I'm certainly going to steal that one. Nice work.

That's a very common thing to do on a chainsaw mill. On my big all aluminium mill I have an aluminium tank.
http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l570/BobLx/Aux_oil_tank.jpg
http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l570/BobLx/wholemill-1.jpg

dian
05-26-2012, 12:38 PM
why do you cool after the cut?

TGTool
05-26-2012, 12:50 PM
why do you cool after the cut?

Probably intended to wash chips from the blade before they're carried on around. Some larger saws have small rotating brushes for this duty.

lugnut
05-26-2012, 01:46 PM
dian the coolant after the cut is JUST in-case he put the blade on upside down:D
Some great ideas Bob, thanks for sharing.

dian
05-26-2012, 01:53 PM
i have scrapers on the blade after the cut.

lakeside53
05-26-2012, 01:54 PM
Chainsaw mill... not a bandsaw mill. It's lube for the chain/bar, not cooling the cutting surface! it's a "drip", not a flood. There is close to ZERO lube oil getting to the tip when milling - the aux oil inserts it at the tip to lube the tip bearings and to provide lube in the slot on the top of the bar (for the chain return). The oiler in the saw in not designed for such work and even when modified doesn't provide enough oil.

There is no issue with chips being returned to the saw on the tip bar side - they eject before or at the tip.

Chainsaw milling is brutal on chains, bars, saws and the sawyer. Unlike cross cutting, it's "full power" for a half tank of gas, short break (reset the mill for another pass), then the other half at full power. When I'm cutting say 20-24 inch wood, I get maybe 18-20 feet per tankfull of gas/oil, and 36-40 feet between chain sharpens (3-4 cuts in a 10 foot log). Typically I'm using a Stihl 660 - the 880 was too much of beast on my own.

jhe.1973
05-26-2012, 02:00 PM
Chainsaw mill... not a bandsaw mill. It's lube for the chain/bar, not cooling the cutting surface! There is close to ZERO lube getting to the tip when milling - the aux oil inserts it at the tip to lube the tip bearings and to provide lube in the slot on the tip of the bar.

Chainsaw milling is brutal on chains, bars, saws and the sawyer. Unlike cross cutting, it's "full power" for a half tank of gas, short break (reset the mill for another pass), then the other half at full power. When I'm cutting say 20-24 inch wood, I get maybe 18-20 feet per tankfull of gas/oil, and 36-40 feet between chain sharpens (3-4 cuts in a 10 foot log). Typically I'm using a Stihl 660 - the 880 was too much of beast on my own.

I'm sure you know of this - but just in case you don't. Have you modified your chain for ripping vs. the crosscutting they are manufactured for?

lakeside53
05-26-2012, 02:06 PM
lol... yes:D

I worked at a saw shop for a few years... I used to churn out the "Grandburg style" chains. Now I just use semi-skip ground to a 5 degree top angle. The Granburg style with slicers didn't buy much, and the slicers wore down rapidly in comparison to the main cutters.

The chain style will depend much on the type of wood you are cutting.

jhe.1973
05-26-2012, 02:17 PM
lol... yes:D

I worked at a saw shop for a few years... I used to churn out the "Grandburg style" chains. Now I just use semi-skip with 5 degree top angle. The Granburg style with slicers didn't buy much, and the slicers wore down rapidly in comparison to the main cutters.

The chain style will depend much on the type of wood you are cutting.

OK, just checking. It's been years since I did chainsaw milling, but even what you called Grandburg style chain (I didn't know the term) made a huge difference in effort & bar life.

I used to do mine with a O51 AVE Stihl and I built a trailer & carriage (think Woodmizer) that was eventually to have a bandsaw. Sigh,.... another project never completed. Used it w/chainsaw though.

On edit: I had to laugh,.... I should have said it's been decades, not years since I did chainsaw milling.

BobL
05-26-2012, 08:29 PM
why do you cool after the cut?

I don't. You must have the operator standing on the wrong side of the saw.
You might be confused by the motorcycle throttle handle which is held in the left hand and unlike a MC has to be rolled forward at the top. This sounds all wrong but works well in practice because unlike a motor bike where one is almost constantly pulling, with a chainsaw mill the action is a pushing one. The throttle's kill switch is also connected to the saw's switch. I also added a throttle lock because I often lock the throttle and just lean on the saw's wrap handle with my knee/leg/ This leaves my hands free to drive in wedges etc

In a regular saw, the oil comes out of the power head onto the chain on the non-cutting side ie side of the bar facing the operator. It then travels under the chain along the bar and around the nose. As it travels along the chain can only hold a small amount of oil and a significant proportion of this oil is lost from the chain as it goes around the nose. Adding more oil before the nose (like a Husqvarna 3120 saw does) is point less as it all gets flung off at the nose. The Aux oil tank replenishes the chain oil just before it goes into the cut.

The Granberg style chains and even skip chains are not much chop in Aussie hard woods. I just use a regular chain with a 10 top angle.