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nitsuj
05-27-2012, 10:38 AM
I'm not a flea market shopper, but once in a while, my wife talks me into going to one. We've been to 2 flea markets in the last 3 years. At both, I stumbled across a large box of American made morse taper drill bits. These apparently don't sell we'll because no one can figure out how to use them in their cordless drill. Anyhow, today's score was a large box of easily over 100 drills, ranging from smallish to 1" in morse 1&2 taper. Plus some reamers. Guy wanted 50 cents a piece, but took $10 for the whole box. Some are worthless, but many are new or almost new. (I also got a nice old, but never used condition, dial type 0-175 lbs torque wrench. $30)

So, I now have a pretty big collection of these large bits. I don't want them just banging around in a pile in a drawer, but I obviously don't have an index large enough for all of them. So I'm just curious how you creative folks are storing these things.

Lew Hartswick
05-27-2012, 11:09 AM
The ones at school are stored in the tubes they came in. It would be
nice to use some cardboard tubes with the end closed and labeled on
the sides with a big black numbers of the sizes. The telescoping ones
they come in would be GREAT but I don't know of any place to buy them. How about using PVC pipe and gluing caps on one end, the
other removable?
...Lew...

Andrew_D
05-27-2012, 11:42 AM
I used pieces of 2" square tubing. Drill holes in them to stand the bits upright. I think the top hole needed to be 1/32" smaller than the bottom hole to keep them from rattling too much. Then just attach the 2" tubing to some wall brackets, bench top, whatever...

Andrew

Boucher
05-27-2012, 12:10 PM
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n50/boucherbyron/IMG_0280Small.jpg

dian
05-27-2012, 12:23 PM
http://i973.photobucket.com/albums/ae218/romandian/x081.jpg

KiddZimaHater
05-27-2012, 12:48 PM
I sandwiched two 1"X 2" rails between two pieces of plywood, then drilled a bunch of holes thru it to hold the drills. Then put two more 1" X 2" rails under it for clearance.
http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/6770/drillsint.jpg

Peter.
05-27-2012, 01:46 PM
I drilled a 13 x 9 grid of holes in the base of an up-turned cabinet drawer, then cut a MT2 taper in them using a chopped-up 16mm MT2 taper drill put in my drill chuck backwards.

http://peterrimmer.myby.co.uk/images/drillstand.jpg

http://peterrimmer.myby.co.uk/images/drilltaperhole.jpg

jhe.1973
05-27-2012, 02:14 PM
I don't want them just banging around in a pile in a drawer,........... So I'm just curious how you creative folks are storing these things.

Yeah, I just can't believe how SOME people mistreat their tools. You'd think they would know better. :mad:

Here's how I store mine:

http://i1096.photobucket.com/albums/g327/jhe-1973/Drills.jpg

:eek:

A big index is on my to do list, but life keeps getting in the way. So for now I just open and close the drawer SLOWLY.

Thanks to all of you for showing your solutions - one of these days - when my ship comes in - in my spare time - as soon as I can etc.

:D

John Stevenson
05-27-2012, 02:37 PM
At great expense of time and material I have made a well organised storage unit to hold my drills in ascending order of size.























http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/registered_user/cupboard2.jpg

jhe.1973
05-27-2012, 02:44 PM
I'm sooooooo sorry John.

I had no idea I could let my drills get so disorganized so I went right out and dumped them all on the floor!

LOL, you really made my day!

Thanks too for the nice way you introduced your photo! :D :D :D

darryl
05-27-2012, 03:46 PM
I've come into the same problem yet again. I recently acquired 20 lbs or so of drill bits and taps, some dies, many punches and cold chisels, etc. I've been de-rusting them in evapo-rust, partly to rejuvenate them, but also to see how long the bath of evapo will last. It turned black with the first use, but it's still active so I'll keep using it till it's toast.

Anyway, now I have quite a few more bits and taps to store. While Johns method is elegantly simple and effective, I think I'll try to come up with a pleated drawer liner of some type. Just something to keep them from rolling side to side. Chances are if you walk around a building supply store you will find something which can be used to make low-height dividers in one way or another.

Some of the drawers I've built have a sliding upper layer in them, which is full width but about half the interior length of the drawer. If you slide it forward you can access the back half of the bottom- sliding it backwards you can access the front half of the bottom. The slider then gives about a half-drawer of extra capacity. For tools and things that are relatively low in height when laid out horizontally (like drill bits) it works well.

Alan Douglas
05-27-2012, 09:26 PM
http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/d/150718-1/P5270189.JPG
Not elegant, but I don't have to rummage to find a particular size since they're all in order. Take one out, it leaves a space, easy to see where to put it back.

Jaakko Fagerlund
05-27-2012, 11:51 PM
At work we have them layed out on a shelf, drill bit cutting end pointing away.

Pro tip: Use a small engraver or similar to mark the drill bit size on the leaf of the Morse shank on both sides, makes it easy to see and almost impossible to "get rid of". Usually the older bits show so much wear on the shanks that the laser markings are gone.

xalky
05-28-2012, 12:33 AM
I like the drawer or tray method myself. Indexes are great except that they take up a lot of valuable flat surface area...a rare commodity in my small workspace. I can cord 100 drill bits in the area it takes to index 10. My more common smaller size bits are in indexes but I also have lots of spares piled up in drawers for when one gets lost from the index.

oldtiffie
05-28-2012, 02:19 AM
Say what you like about John's drill storage but it is very efficent storage in terms of drills per cubic foot/meter.

I wouldn't like to guess how much "proper" drill storage he'd need if they were cossetted in swadling clothes and cotton wool.

Being HSS or better there's not much damage that any of those drills might do to each other.

There is a limit to what may be called a "reasonable" amount or number of drills (and some other stuff too).

If you can't find stuff and/or badly need more storage space it might be reasonable to see just how many you really do need - and then do some serious culling.

John Stevenson
05-28-2012, 02:57 AM
I actually store my drills like Alan has shown 3 or so posts above.
One tray has drills that go in 1.0mm increments but are half sizes like 13.5, 14.5, 15.5 etc and these are drills for reaming.

Saves hunting, reamers sit in another drawer but they are in plastic tubes to protect them. The cupboard of drills is just stock bought in from auctions and is hardly ever used unless I need a drill I don't have handy.

Somewhere in the shop are tin boxes, we call they tote tins or trays, with larger drills from auctions and at least 3 trays of 3 flute core drills.
They honestly need a big clear out as I never have need of those.

Next week is holiday week and I'm off because I need to get this big TOS out to scrap, said it enough times but the deed is going to be done. Borrowed a 3 tonne fork truck from a company who's also closed next week, got to collect it Friday.

The big Ravensburg slotter is going as well and this will be first but that has been sold and going to a good home. I'm hoping them I will just have enough room to slide the TOS thru after a few machines are moved.

There is about 10 tote tins under the TOS that have never seen the light of day in 8 or so years.
Should be an interesting week. :rolleyes:

mike4
05-28-2012, 03:58 AM
Sir John ,
I am curious about your collection of drills , do you have many MT1 sizes as I am finding them hard to obtain , MT2 and MT3 are more common .
If you are interested PM me and I will work on freight companies for the best deal.
Michael

Forrest Addy
05-28-2012, 05:29 AM
Drill a wood block two diameters the risht depth to fake the fits of a morse taper. Use thick material: 4 x X shorts from the box inder the lubmer yard RAS, laminate plywood scraps etc. If you have a Morse reamer make fitted holes. Make the blocks as pie segments to fit a roto-bin or rectangle for a shelf. A 10 to 30 degree incline is handier for accss.

No to drawers, coffee cans, and bins. The margins need crisp edges. Margine dings make site for chips to get dragged and score the hole. Three rummages in a pile of drills produces about a dozen little dings. You can barely see them but they are there. Store drills and any other edged tools (including files) so they can't bang together.

Shame on you John Stevenson.

oldtiffie
05-28-2012, 06:50 AM
And I will bet that John S is not alone in this as I see heaps (by the boxful) of drills and other cutters badly rusted and knocked about - so it might not start with the HSM-er but it might well end there.

J Tiers
05-28-2012, 10:56 PM
Drill a wood block two diameters the risht depth to fake the fits of a morse taper. Use thick material: 4 x X shorts from the box inder the lubmer yard RAS, laminate plywood scraps etc.

Absolutely first rate idea!

That's what i did a while back.....;) The double diameter is the easiest way, I am not extra fond of trying to ream wood.

Tip:.......... if you slush it with some cheap varnish it will stay cleaner and not hold moisture against the tapers (rust).

Another tip.... when you drill, drill the shorter large hole first, then the tang size.... with spade bits (the type to use on wood) that is important.....DAMHIKT ;)

Final tip..... write the sizes on a strip of paper pasted to the front of the block, and varnished down..... no need to hunt, and varnish keeps the paper readable.

Paul Alciatore
05-28-2012, 11:52 PM
Drill a wood block two diameters the risht depth to fake the fits of a morse taper. Use thick material: 4 x X shorts from the box inder the lubmer yard RAS, laminate plywood scraps etc. If you have a Morse reamer make fitted holes. Make the blocks as pie segments to fit a roto-bin or rectangle for a shelf. A 10 to 30 degree incline is handier for accss.

No to drawers, coffee cans, and bins. The margins need crisp edges. Margine dings make site for chips to get dragged and score the hole. Three rummages in a pile of drills produces about a dozen little dings. You can barely see them but they are there. Store drills and any other edged tools (including files) so they can't bang together.

Shame on you John Stevenson.

Ditto on the two diameter holes in a block of wood.

You could even make strips from 2x4s that have the holes in the 2" side and an angled cut on the 4" side to allow them to be installed in draws at a slight angle. One draw could have two, three, or even four such strips.

Davo J
05-28-2012, 11:55 PM
I have stored my MT5 and 3 lathe tools and my NT3 for the mill like this for years as well. I used a nice routered edge piece of hard wood I had here and double drilled them. Then once they where sanded finished I oiled them up with motor oil, looks great as it brings out the natural timber, and stops any rust.

I have a roller tool box I have all my drill bits in, the bottom is stacked with new sets and other stuff like hole saws etc.

Rob Wilson made a nice rake out of angle if I remember right, having them exposed in my shed would only make all the drills go rusty.

Dave

PS
Found Robs pictures
http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=3286.msg35181#msg35181

http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1020305.jpg

Peter.
05-29-2012, 03:14 AM
Absolutely first rate idea!

That's what i did a while back.....;) The double diameter is the easiest way, I am not extra fond of trying to ream wood.



My 100+ holes took no more than 10 minutes using the took in my pic.

oldtiffie
05-29-2012, 06:32 AM
Take stock of the drills you really need and use often to periodically, make storage for them and just put the rest any where anyhow with a view of having a real objective hard-nosed culling session of them.