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View Full Version : G. A. Ewen-esque Idea Needed



Bruce Griffing
03-01-2004, 08:47 AM
I have always admired G. A. Ewen's ability to scrounge. From the engine block horizontal mill to the auto transmission on the drill press he has clearly demonstrated the ability to use materials at hand to solve problems. I have a problem that needs a Ewen-esque solution.
I need to replace a broken handwheel on my Royal collet closer drawtube. A Royal replacement is too expensive for my taste. The original is 5 3/4" in diameter and is attached with three flat head screws in about a two inch circle. The flange it attaches to is flat. I am trying to think of an everyday type of wheel I can adapt for this purpose. Most of the wheels I have looked at are not flat at the center. I also want something I can easily grip at the circumference. The diameter is not critical. Any ideas?

G.A. Ewen
03-01-2004, 09:44 AM
http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//redface.gif Aw gee, you're making feel all warm and fuzzy inside. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

The first thing that comes to mind would be to turn off a "top hat" shaped piece that you could bolt on to the flange. A sewing machine wheel or the wheel from a large valve could then be fastened to the stub shaft. I'm not familiar with the Royal Collet system that you are talking about but I suspect that the draw tube is open ended like a 5C spin index. That being so the above idea won't work. A "cup" shaped piece with a hole in the bottom could be bolted to the flange. A hand wheel could then be fastened to the outside of the cup.

I will give it some more thought and get back to you. In the mean time I am sure that others will come up with some good ideas.

FWIW here is three thousand more words. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

http://img4.photobucket.com/albums/0603/GAEWEN/db28f1d5.jpg

http://img4.photobucket.com/albums/0603/GAEWEN/617fe71c.jpg

http://img4.photobucket.com/albums/0603/GAEWEN/37dcc8c9.jpg

The last two photos are of a sewing machine hand wheel that is just less than 5" in dia. with a 7/8" hole and just over 2" at the bottom of the pully grove. If you think that you can make something out of it you are welcome to it.

[This message has been edited by G.A. Ewen (edited 03-01-2004).]

debequem
03-01-2004, 10:33 AM
Looks just like the steering wheel from a Yugo to me. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

Bruce Griffing
03-01-2004, 10:38 AM
To clarify the geometry, here is a picture of the drawtube and handle.

http://img1.photobucket.com/albums/1003/brucegriffing/Standard_Modern_Drawtube_Handle.jpg

Rustybolt
03-01-2004, 10:55 AM
Make one out of plywood. That way you could make it any configuration you like.

Evan
03-01-2004, 12:20 PM
Turn a disc from 1/4" aluminum and use silicone to glue on split heater hose to the rim.

BTW, for turning aluminum discs I use a wooden HDPB faceplate.

[This message has been edited by Evan (edited 03-01-2004).]

ARFF79
03-01-2004, 12:41 PM
Bruce, not knowing your shops capabilities, and if you can not find a suitable odd or end to adapt, 2 options come to mind. Option #1: use the broken handle as a pattern and cast it in aluminum. The design is such that you could open pour it without needing both the cope and the drag. Face off the back side drill out the mounting holes and center bore and wire brush the rough edges and away you go. Option #2: Take a piece of aluminum jig plate 1/2" - 3/4" thick, locate, drill the center hole, locate, drill and counter sink the mounting holes, rough out the handle form with a saw, mill, or disk/belt sander, mount it in your lathe chuck on a mandrel, turn to size, radius and knurl the outside edge for gripping. If you wanted to get fancy, you could scallop the edge using a coarse sanding drum instead of knurling it. While typing this a 3rd option came to mind.Have you checked to see if their are any handle blanks that would do in the Reid's Tooling Components catalog? They list a lot of useful parts and suppies, some of which are not carried by McMaster-Carr and MSC.

J Tiers
03-01-2004, 01:52 PM
I vote for the aluminum plate solution. I did that for my shop-built closer system, and it works fine. My plate wheel also is attached by a similar three screw arrrangement to a flange.

If you want you can flute the edge as mentioned, I didn't bother.

For your speeds the weight may not matter, but extra mass can unscrew the closer unexpectedly. That's likely why Royal used a plastic.

G.A. Ewen
03-01-2004, 02:02 PM
This is a photo of a badly worn friction wheel from an 8 hp MTD snowblower. A new one has a nicely rounded rubber grip. It is 6" in dia. and has a 1-1/8" center hole. (do you get snow down your way?)

http://img4.photobucket.com/albums/0603/GAEWEN/ba035a12.jpg

Bruce Griffing
03-01-2004, 02:53 PM
Wow - that snowblower wheel looks pretty good. A few years ago, I lived in upstate NY and owned a snowblower. But here in central Texas, we have essentially no snowblowers. Haven't seen a one at the dump. A new one from MTD is $18 plus shipping. Looks like it would be a great solution if I lived further north.

JCHannum
03-01-2004, 03:26 PM
Root around in Flea Markets or garage sales and get an aluminum frying pan. Unless you are in Canada, then get an aluminium one.

G.A. Ewen
03-01-2004, 03:31 PM
Bruce,
I'll ask around tomorrow to see if any of the other HSM's have one that is in better shape. If I can find one it will just cost you the postage.

winchman
03-01-2004, 06:02 PM
I've seen some golf bag carts with aluminum wheels that would work well as handwheels.

Roger