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View Full Version : bearings back to back - how do you get them out?



rmuell01
10-27-2012, 03:12 PM
this is for my Wellsaw in the bandsaw wheel. the bearing are back to back and I don't know how to remove them.

did a small test with my press but it didn't budge.

any ideas?

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w243/rmuell01/IMG_0760.jpg

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w243/rmuell01/IMG_0761.jpg

oxford
10-27-2012, 03:16 PM
How hard did you press on them. It looks like they should just press out. They could have been set with some retaining compound, which I found can take quite a bit of force to break loose.

darryl
10-27-2012, 05:13 PM
I will assume you will be replacing them, so if these get damaged it's no loss. Also assuming there's no lip between them that would prevent them from being pushed out, you should be able to press them out. You would want to press on the outer races of course, as is usual.

If there's a lip on one side and you can't press on the outer race, then you will have to get creative. I would try heating the thing to about 300 F, maybe more, then use the press. Otherwise you might remove the seal, then pry out the ball cage and remove the balls, then weld in a washer such that when the welds cool, the outer race is shrunken inwards. I haven't tried this, but some here have suggested that it works.

lakeside53
10-27-2012, 06:45 PM
Easy stuff - use a blind hole bearing puller. Harbor Freight sell one cheap. Basically an expanding mandrel (with bottom "lip") with an attached slide hammer. Take them out one at a time.

However... if they are "through" and you can get a press on them, just press harder!

oldtiffie
10-27-2012, 06:58 PM
Press on the outer race - but support the wheel (with a holejust larger than the outer race).

Press from the spigot side.

John Stevenson
10-27-2012, 07:06 PM
Is there a slight gap between the bearings ? If so there may be a circlip in between the bearings.

If there is a circlip this is one reason it won't press thru.

Boucher
10-27-2012, 07:59 PM
There is a bearing puller made for removing clutch throw out bearings from the flywheel that might work in this case. For degrading lock tight without damaging other things nearby use an electric clothes iron set to Linen. Set it on the wheel and give it a while to reach temperature and stabilize. I have put a little tension on the puller and set the iron on and while doing something else heard the snap as the bearing moved.

JoeLee
10-27-2012, 08:48 PM
Easy stuff - use a blind hole bearing puller. Harbor Freight sell one cheap. Basically an expanding mandrel (with bottom "lip") with an attached slide hammer. Take them out one at a time.

However... if they are "through" and you can get a press on them, just press harder!

I would like the PN# for that puller........... Could have used one of that style many times, didn't know the existed so I also had to get creative.

As for the bearing, a little heat with a propane torch around the housing should do it. Just make sure you properly block the hub, you don't want to bend or crack the casting.

JL...................

914Wilhelm
10-27-2012, 08:53 PM
Easy stuff - use a blind hole bearing puller. Harbor Freight sell one cheap. Basically an expanding mandrel (with bottom "lip") with an attached slide hammer. Take them out one at a time.

However... if they are "through" and you can get a press on them, just press harder!

Funny this comes up. I just used this puller today.....
Can you see if the bearings are touching or slightly spaced?


http://www.harborfreight.com/3-jaw-pilot-bearing-puller-4876.html

Looking at your picture there is no way this puller will be able to engage one bearing. They need to be at least 3/8" apart to grab one of them. If you think they're going to have to be pulled out rather than pushed through I suspect you will need to get a 3 inch stout piece of metal with both ends sides threaded. Run bolts parallel and straddeling bore and weld the center of the bore to the bearing. Kind of an off side puller. Will destroy the bearing, but get it out.

Boucher
10-27-2012, 09:58 PM
The higher quality puller from the bearing supply house cost significantly more and perform better than the HF clones. Cooling things rapidly can be done with a liquid line on a butane tank. I have one on a 250gal tank that was used to refuel a tractor. You could probably do the same thing with a 20# bottle turned upside down but the new safety valves may not allow that. If the bearings are not to be reused an abrasive wheel in a Dremel tool can be used to cut a gripping point for the puller.

Mcostello
10-27-2012, 09:58 PM
There looks like enough radius on the inner races to get a chisel on the edge and give couple of raps to see if anything moves outward. Safety Nazi's can turn red and yell about now.

oldtiffie
10-27-2012, 10:12 PM
MIG weld a spigot that is just under the outside diameter of the bearing to the outer race - three short fillet welds should suffice.

Weld a say 1/2 bolt to the outer end of the spigot - complete a conventional "puller" from there - and "pull"

Willy
10-28-2012, 03:07 AM
A few short weld beads on the outer race works well, and as has been mentioned shrinks the race enough after cooling that as often as not the bearing usually falls out on it's own. It will work when nothing else works.

But my first choice is usually a blind bearing puller like lakeside53 mentioned.
A set for common various size bearings is a handy item in the shop.

Here's a couple of pics so you can better understand the concept of how these pullers function.


http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j31/250willy/blind_hole4_zps0298476f.jpg


http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j31/250willy/blind_bearing_puller_zps321ad2b2.jpg

Peter N
10-28-2012, 04:14 AM
It's easy!
Have a rummage in your toolbox or go to your local hardware shop and buy one of these to fit the bearing ID.

http://www.trssupplies.co.uk/images/uploads/tools/RAW44505.JPG

Then insert it as deep as *one* of the bearings only, tighten it up so it grips, then use a drift on the bolt from the opposite side to knock it out.

Simples!

krutch
10-28-2012, 11:31 AM
Might be a good idea to look at the blow-up drawing for the particular model to see how the bearings relate to the part. Go on-line for the info if you don't have the manual.

rmuell01
10-28-2012, 12:56 PM
Might be a good idea to look at the blow-up drawing for the particular model to see how the bearings relate to the part. Go on-line for the info if you don't have the manual.

doesn't appear to have any add'l circlips or other parts.

those internal bearing pullers are great looking.

I will try the welding > I give the press another go.

thanks all.

lakeside53
10-28-2012, 01:13 PM
On some really stuck "through hole bearings" where you only want to remove one, or it has an internal circlip etc. I use the mandrel from the blind puller to bind the bearing, and then press it it out from the back side.


There is another puller Ive used to change the crank bearining on the likes of chainsaws etc WITHOUT spitting the case. You pop the seals, remove the cage (or destroy it if plastic) and move the balls to two sides. The puller inserts in the ball grooove, expands against the outer races, and extracts the bearings like any screw thread puller.

JoeLee
10-28-2012, 03:12 PM
A few short weld beads on the outer race works well, and as has been mentioned shrinks the race enough after cooling that as often as not the bearing usually falls out on it's own. It will work when nothing else works.

But my first choice is usually a blind bearing puller like lakeside53 mentioned.
A set for common various size bearings is a handy item in the shop.

Here's a couple of pics so you can better understand the concept of how these pullers function.


http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j31/250willy/blind_hole4_zps0298476f.jpg


http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j31/250willy/blind_bearing_puller_zps321ad2b2.jpgThis is a much better design than the HF one pictured. I have a couple of the 3 finger slide hammer type in different sizes but it's tough to get the hook to grab the bearing. This is more of what I had pictured when you mentioned expanding ID puller, not the claw type. Also it comes with different size pullers, very nice. Who makes this one???

JL...................

Willy
10-28-2012, 03:48 PM
The blind hole bearing puller illustrated in my example is made by Pittsburgh Tools.
Although there are many other brands available from various sources this particular one is available from Harbor Freight.
The one in the link below is slightly different in appearance but functionally the same.
http://www.harborfreight.com/blind-hole-bearing-puller-95987.html

Toolguy
10-28-2012, 04:01 PM
You could just weld a plug in the inner race and knock it out from the back with a punch.

rmuell01
10-30-2012, 08:50 PM
With leverage I got them out with my arbor press. There was a loud pop and then they slipped right out.
a couple of old 1-2-3 blocks
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w243/rmuell01/IMG_1320.jpg

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w243/rmuell01/IMG_1324.jpg

oooh, Shiney.
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w243/rmuell01/IMG_1325.jpg

winchman
10-31-2012, 03:18 AM
Judging from the replies, I think everyone thought the bearings were in a blind hole.

Had we known otherwise, the answers would have been much simpler.....more force on the outer race, and heat the wheel if that doesn't work.

Mcgyver
10-31-2012, 11:07 AM
Judging from the replies, I think everyone thought the bearings were in a blind hole.
.

...or Johns remark that there may be a circlip between them. I have never seen such a thing....seen spacers but not internal clips...otoh I've probably haven't seen <1% of what John has so I don't doubt its possible.