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scotplant
11-01-2012, 05:23 PM
hi been a while since i posted anything, just been browsing site as usual :)
just bought a wohlhaupter up4 boring and facing head off of ebay.
but i can't find user manual on internet, all the one on there have buttons on the outside of collar, mines has 8 buttons on top of head.
anyway, my question is, it has a no3 morse tapered shank on it, is this safe to use without a drawbar?? my mill has int40 shank.
its a nice unit but suspect it to be very old and i'm scared to try it in case i wreck it:eek:
i,ll try and post some pictures tomorrow.

cheers
Tom..

gwilson
11-01-2012, 05:36 PM
Of course it needs a drawbar!! If the current shank has no threads for 1,the owner didn't know what her was doing. That is a very fine make,by the way.

scotplant
11-01-2012, 05:46 PM
sorry!! should have added that it has a drawbar thread but i have saw some with morse taper and a tang, may have been smaller ones though!
is there a morse 3 taper to int40 adaptor with a hole through it that i could make a drawbar to use with the boring head??
hope that all makes sense to someone :confused:
Tom..

jcon
11-01-2012, 05:58 PM
scotplant:

Sometime back I got some parts and manuals from a man or company, the Email address was mr@wohlhaupter.com

It is a very good make of tool

Good Luck

Jim

.RC.
11-01-2012, 06:08 PM
search here for Wohlhaupter UPA4 it is down the bottom https://skydrive.live.com/?cid=547FE296ECFD561F&id=547FE296ECFD561F!171&sc=documents

Boucher
11-01-2012, 09:28 PM
The shank on most boring heads can be changed. If yours cannot then a straight sleeve can be installed. http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=214-8709
This will work if you can accomodate the 1 1/4" OD

Marty J. Roberts
11-01-2012, 10:16 PM
I was at IMTS this year and priced one of those heads and it was over $8000! They must be a whale of a tool! This ol' boy isn't buying one!

IanPendle
11-02-2012, 03:24 AM
Hello Tom,

I have an original manual which covers Up1 to UP3. It's a bit grubby, but still legible. If you think that it would be of any use to you, you can have it FOC. I would be happy to post it to you as I'm in the the UK. Let me know if you want it and if so, PM me your address etc.

Regards, Ian.

Timleech
11-02-2012, 03:54 AM
The shank on most boring heads can be changed. If yours cannot then a straight sleeve can be installed. http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=214-8709
This will work if you can accomodate the 1 1/4" OD

Some of the older Wolhaupters have a fixed shank.

Tim

Dennis WA
11-02-2012, 04:14 AM
Tom...I've sent you an e-mail. I can send you a good pdf copy of:
OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS FOR WOHLHAUPTER “ UNIVERSAL BORING
AND FACING HEADS Models UPA 4, UPA 4-S5, UPA 5, UPA 5-S6,
UPA 6 and UPA 6-S7

Cheers
Dennis

Timleech
11-02-2012, 04:56 AM
sorry!! should have added that it has a drawbar thread but i have saw some with morse taper and a tang, may have been smaller ones though!
is there a morse 3 taper to int40 adaptor with a hole through it that i could make a drawbar to use with the boring head??
hope that all makes sense to someone :confused:
Tom..

Here's my UPA3 with fixed 4MT taper, with a 4MT-40 taper pass-through adapter. I made a male/female spigot/pull stud, whatever you want to call it, to match the thread and length to standard 40INT tooling.

http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss38/Timleech_2009/Workshop/Wolhaupt-1.jpg


Tim

.RC.
11-02-2012, 05:17 AM
Here is my Japanese UPA4 clone

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-R3OrOKwnJQ

Spin Doctor
11-02-2012, 06:13 AM
I don't know what the big deal about their being able to bore a taper is. I always managed to do that:rolleyes:

scotplant
11-02-2012, 01:45 PM
thanks for all the links etc. unfortunatly all the manuals on the net seem to be for a slightly different type of boring head.
i think mines must be quite old! dont know is it has reversing capability or not??
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q726/scotplant1/DSCF4800.jpghttp://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q726/scotplant1/DSCF4802.jpg
i think that it maybe a no4 morse taper not 3..but it has a 14mm drawbar thread.
can you get an adaptor to int 40 with a through hole that is fairly short so i dont have too much overhang out of spindle??

Here's my UPA3 with fixed 4MT taper, with a 4MT-40 taper pass-through adapter. I made a male/female spigot/pull stud, whatever you want to call it, to match the thread and length to standard 40INT tooling.
whats the spigot like that you made Tim?? could you post some pics??
any idea on what this is worth?? its in good condition for its age..
thanks again
Tom..

scotplant
11-02-2012, 02:00 PM
here are some more pictures of boring head..

http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q726/scotplant1/DSCF4798.jpg

http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q726/scotplant1/DSCF4799.jpg

http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q726/scotplant1/DSCF4801.jpg

it doesn't seem to have the feed button mentioned in the other manuals, just a fine adjustment screw in the side.
figured out that if i push in 4 pins in the top it will feed out, then push in the other 4 pins the first ones pop back out and the feed reverses, so i dont think it has automatic reverse feed!
anybody got one of these old style??
:) Tom.. ps sorry about the size of pictures havent figured that one out yet..

scotplant
11-03-2012, 12:44 PM
had a rumage around today and found just what i needed lying in the bottom of a box of bits i got with my lathe, an adaptor to convert my boring head from morse 4 taper to int40, but the morse taper protruded through the adaptor to far.
so after much debate i decided to alter the original arbour to fit.
so chucked it up in the lathe and turned it down at the end to suit, the original arbour was seriously hard!! really should be ground i suppose??

http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q726/scotplant1/DSCF4806.jpg

had to taper just the end off it to suit the int 40 taper.

http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q726/scotplant1/DSCF4807.jpg

http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q726/scotplant1/DSCF4808.jpg

http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q726/scotplant1/DSCF4809.jpg

cleaned up my rough lathe work! with some emery cloth in the lathe and it seems to fit in the mill fine.
ill just need to make a new drawbar to suit it as it has 14mm threads instead of the 5/8" which the drawbar on the parkson mill is.
cheers
Tom...

Timleech
11-03-2012, 02:20 PM
ill just need to make a new drawbar to suit it as it has 14mm threads instead of the 5/8" which the drawbar on the parkson mill is.
cheers
Tom...

I've had success with a couple of jobs similar to that, by locally annealing the end of the shank, and drilling out & re-tapping. Saves messing around with swapping drawbars.


Tim

scotplant
11-03-2012, 05:19 PM
I've had success with a couple of jobs similar to that, by locally annealing the end of the shank, and drilling out & re-tapping. Saves messing around with swapping drawbars
Tim

how do you anneal things like this Tim?? as this was seriously hard stuff i had to take small cuts or it started jumping about in the lathe!!
then i must have got through the case hardening and things got a bit easier.
i would be to scared to ruin the arbour heating it so how did you do it??
Tom..

Boucher
11-03-2012, 10:00 PM
Try some ceramic inserts. Just pay attention to the recommended feeds and speeds and it will produce a beautiful finish on hard materials.

Timleech
11-04-2012, 04:00 AM
how do you anneal things like this Tim?? as this was seriously hard stuff i had to take small cuts or it started jumping about in the lathe!!
then i must have got through the case hardening and things got a bit easier.
i would be to scared to ruin the arbour heating it so how did you do it??
Tom..

I had a couple of 30 INT items with small drawbar threads which needed tapping out to M12.
The threaded spigot needs to be heated to a dull red and then allowed to cool gently. So far as I remember (it was a while ago now) I heated the end as locally as I could (might have been with an oxy torch, can't remember for sure) and then put the business end to cool in some liquid, probably lubricating oil, before it got discoloured from the heat although from what I remember it might have been ok without extra cooling, there was enough mass in the body of the thing to dissipate the heat but best to be prepared. Obviously you have to make sure you're not cooling the spigot end too quickly & rehardening it. Also if you make the heating too quick & too localised then the conduction away to the body of the tool might cool it quickly enough to stop it from annealing properly, so a bit of guesswork and seat of the pants judgment needed. You could probably sit the actual head in an oil bath while you heat the spigot, but then you'd have to consider the fire risk.

They were still tough to drill & tap after this, but it was feasible.

Tim

scotplant
11-04-2012, 05:03 AM
Try some ceramic inserts. Just pay attention to the recommended feeds and speeds and it will produce a beautiful finish on hard materials.
it was insert type cutter i was using, dont know what type though but it wanted to bounce about a bit in the lathe.
my live centre is not very big, and i was cutting right next to it so workpiece had a bit of movement when taking heavy cuts.
then it started to dig in when through the hard facing, so it is actually turned down a bit smaller in dia. than what i was wanting!!
but i am still a learner at this machining stuff:p
cheers
Tom..

scotplant
11-04-2012, 05:07 AM
I had a couple of 30 INT items with small drawbar threads which needed tapping out to M12.
The threaded spigot needs to be heated to a dull red and then allowed to cool gently. So far as I remember (it was a while ago now) I heated the end as locally as I could (might have been with an oxy torch, can't remember for sure) and then put the business end to cool in some liquid, probably lubricating oil, before it got discoloured from the heat although from what I remember it might have been ok without extra cooling, there was enough mass in the body of the thing to dissipate the heat but best to be prepared. Obviously you have to make sure you're not cooling the spigot end too quickly & rehardening it. Also if you make the heating too quick & too localised then the conduction away to the body of the tool might cool it quickly enough to stop it from annealing properly, so a bit of guesswork and seat of the pants judgment needed. You could probably sit the actual head in an oil bath while you heat the spigot, but then you'd have to consider the fire risk.

They were still tough to drill & tap after this, but it was feasible.

Tim

thanks Tim i might take the plunge later in the week and have a bash at this as it would be so much handier if the drawbar was the same size as my mill.
oxy torch here i come ;)

Tom..