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bearing
11-09-2012, 04:42 AM
Time to add a collet setup for my recently acquired SB 9, it is a 415-AV. I believe this model was replace by the "SB 9 workshop c".
http://i478.photobucket.com/albums/rr144/bluearc5/lathe/20452_zpsbeacb2a3.jpg

I have seen import collet adapters for sale at reasonable prices however, I have not seen any comments on them and I am reluctant to try one.

For example, the adapter sleeve would have to be knocked out with something which I don't think is a good idea.

I would appreciate any suggestions.
thanks,

J Tiers
11-09-2012, 08:26 AM
Make one...... mark it and machine in place. It will be better than a generic one if you are careful, and if you don't like it, you can make another.


Aside from that, used costs you $150 and you don't know what you will end up with.... Import I don't know the cost, but you STILL don't know what you will end up with.

or you could go with ER collets.

flylo
11-09-2012, 08:36 AM
JT, please tell us more about ER collets as I've seen these but don't know their function,Thanks!

kitno455
11-09-2012, 08:44 AM
Several comments:

1. You have a 9" workshop model C. Don't be confused by the 415 designation. SB used that for models both before and after they started using the 'workshop' name. The 'A' and the side oilers are giveaways that yours is from after the ABC designation was made. (in this case, your 'A' means adjustable countershaft)

2. People have been knocking spindle adapters and centers out from the the rear for around 100 years now. Don't sweat it.

3. You can make a spindle thread protector nut, which will push on the back of a flange on the adapter, so you don't have to knock it out.

4. You can make your own adapter, though it won't be hardened. That does not matter for most casual uses.

5. The biggest collet you can take in the spindle is a 3C. Thats pretty small, and you will need a drawbar, etc. In your case, I would consider ER-40 instead.

allan

jcon
11-09-2012, 08:59 AM
Bearing:

First of all there should be a threaded collar (nose cap) that screws on the spindle, that acts as a puller for the collet adapter. The collet adapter must have a flange large enough for the puller to work. So there is no stress on the spindle bearings.

Your lathe looks very much like my 9” SB from the 1940’s.

Some time ago I made a 3c collet adapter for my lathe. It was mostly a cut and try job so I did not make any useable drawings. I made the morse taper adapter from 4140 steel, the nose cap and drawbar from 2018 crs the hand wheel aluminum and I bought a thrust bearing.

There some collet adapters on Ebay.

Jim Connell, DeLand FL.
Daytona Beach is near us.


You haven’t begun learn until to learn until you learn how little you know.

bob308
11-09-2012, 09:59 AM
where are you in pa.?

Boucher
11-10-2012, 08:39 PM
This is a good collet chuck.http://www.tools4cheap.net/proddetail.php?prod=er40plate You have to make or fit a backplate to it. The advantage to fitting it is that you wind up with a very true running holder. I donít know what the taper is in your lathe spindle but these holders are also available in Morse tapers from 2 to 4. http://www.tools4cheap.net/proddetail.php?prod=er40mt312chuck

This is an ER32 collet chuck mounted on a D1-3 back plate. I machined the backplate in place and did a shrink fit of the collet chuck onto it. The smaller ER25 is installed in the ER32 because I didnít have any thing else with a ground finish. The DTI just barely wiggles.
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n50/boucherbyron/ER-32Collet.jpg