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foreman33
11-12-2012, 08:58 PM
Yes, I have a question about the removal of the chuck on the Rockwell drill press. Some people state that you need a wedge to remove it and other say to unscrew it. So which is it? The locking ring above the chuck has 3 holes in it, and it is right hand thread.

So do you wind it down against the chuck and continue winding it down until the chuck coes off?

Does the chuck unscrew or does it just get pushed off by winding down the lock nut?

I put a drift pin in the lock nut while I attempted to wind it down against the chuck while I held the chuck with the chuck key and it still did nothing. Would not come off.

I tried raising the lock nut and putting a wedge between the lock nut and the chuck and beating the wedge with a hammer and it would not budge.

What am I doing wrong???

What do I need to do to remove the chuck???

Please explain how to do this step by step. Because what I've been doing is not working.

foreman33

+ or - Zero
11-12-2012, 11:31 PM
Hi forman33,
First, I am without doubt the least knowledgeable person on this forum to answer your question --I know nothing about whatever Rockwell drill press you have, or any Rockwell drill press.

But still maybe I can ask a question that might help whoever comes along with the answer for you.

Do you know what sort of attachment method the chuck uses --I mean is it a MT or maybe Brown and Sharp, or maybe no taper at all (my smaller chucks sometimes are a very mild press fit with an internal screw that one reaches by opening the chuck jaws all the way --if it's like that the screw probably is a left thread, so it may turn clockwise to loosen).

If it's say a MT then the wedge should loosen it, unless someone put a MT taper from a lathe in it, which may not have the tang, so it has nothing to engage the wedge. I had that problem once on a MT2 taper drill press. You could probably see the tang in the slot, if it is a taper type and has a taper with a removal tang.

Well that's about all I can think of to ask, or say about it, wish I knew more but someone will surely come along that knows this stuff top to bottom.

Good luck.

foreman33
11-13-2012, 01:59 AM
I am not sure what kind of taper is used on this chuck, but from what I've read in this forum it has I believe a taper of some sorts that seems to be removed by turning the lock nut to the left and releasing it by then forcing it off. I have tried this but I still cannot get the chuck off.

There has to be a procedure to do this. Either I did not apply enough force or applied it at the wrong place.

http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/threads/46986-Rockwell-drill-press-chuck-removal

In the above link are several post and replies, but none of them seem to explain in detail how to remove this chuck.

What I am asking for is a detailed step by step procedure to remove this chuck.

I hope someone has done this and can explain in detail how it is done.

+ or - Zero
11-13-2012, 06:53 AM
If your Rockwell has exactly the same chuck as pictured in the OP in the other thread -- a Rockwell 15" vari 15-655 model 20.

Then it's covered in all possible detail in post #7 in that thread, by Lew Hartswick:

That is the exact same as the one on my Sears drill press.
And yes the above is right. The thread is a righ hand one and a pin
"spanner" is what it takes. Hold the pully and wack the end of the
spanner it'll come loose and just spin it off.

So did the collar come loose when you tried the above?

And if so, did it come completely loose or is it still on the threads and touching the chuck?

If it came clear of the threads then I'd apply some force down on the chuck with a bar or something between the loose collar and the quill housing (not enough to break the housing or anything).

If it isn't clear of the threads keep turning it until it is (probably push the chuck out).

If neither of those steps has or doesn't (if you have not already tried them) work, then something more drastic may be necessary.

At least that is the way it seems to me.

If your chuck is not the one pictured in the other thread (the Rockwell 15" vari 15-655 model 20) then we need a picture of yours maybe someone will recognize it and be able to help.

Zero

One might also make a U shaped, thick as needed, shim to put between the collar and the chuck, so unscrewing the collar pushes on the chuck --if you try this and anything goes wrong don't blame me, just read the first post I made about my qualifications, and remember this advice is worth what you payed for it. But I wouldn't give it if I thought it was inherently wrong (inadvertently is another matter).

good luck.

foreman33
11-13-2012, 10:39 AM
Yes my chuck seems to be the same as the one pictured in the post.

And yes, the collar comes loose but it only moves up and down a few turns and then it just jams and will not go any further.

As far as applying force to it, I put a wedge between the lock nut and the chuck and hit it very hard with a hammer and again it did not budge. If the chuck screws on and you don't get it off the threads then trying to wedge it off will not work.

This is what I'm not sure of, does the chuck screw off or does it get forced off with a wedge or some other type of tool????

Does the pressure of unscrewing the lock nut force off the chuck???

I put the chuck key in the chuck and held it from turning while another person used a pair of channel locks to try and force the lock nut against the chuck but he could not get the lock nut to force off the chuck. The grip on the lock nut with the channel locks kept slipping and he could not get it to apply enough pressure to bring the lock nut any further down against the chuck.

Another question, does the lock nut squeeze the taper tighter when it is wound up or does it squeeze the taper tighter when it is wound down against the chuck???

And right now I'm not sure when we first tried to remove the chuck exactly where the lock nut was. Was it against the chuck or was it raised up and away from the chuck, don't remember where it was.

I though this chuck was like all of the other chucks that I have removed and you would simply lower the spindle, put a drift pin in the slot and hit it with a hammer and force the chuck off. Not this one. No slot, no screw up inside the chuck holding it on. I've never encountered a chuck like this one. Hence this is the reason why I can't get the chuck off. I don't want to break anything, just remove the chuck.

I guess I should say why I want to remove the chuck. When you put the chuck key in the chuck and try to move it, it moves but is very hard to turn. So I though I would attempt to take the chuck off and perhaps clean it and possible loosed it up so that the key was easy to turn. Well that never happened.

I even pushed out the pin in the chuck key and then put it in a drill and sprayed the hell out of the chuck with WD-40 and began to spin the chuck back and forth with the teeth of the chuck key in the drill and never really got it to loosen up very much. The only place that the chuck spun easily was at the top when the pins or flutes were up inside the chuck were they would be if a large drill bit was put inside of the chuck.

So right now I'm at a stand still. Can't figure out how to remove the damn chuck. Very frustrated.

Or I guess another question would be, how does one free up a chuck that does not turn very easily with a chuck key??? And hopefully without having to remove the chuck to accomplish this.

Any and all opinions would be greatly appreciated.

foreman33

Harvey Melvin Richards
11-13-2012, 11:02 AM
I have an old Rockwell DP with a Jacobs 33-C chuck. As far as I know the C means it has a locking collar. When I remove my chuck I put a pin punch that's a close fit into the a hole on the collar. I then unscrew the collar (move it towards the chuck). It takes a little force to get the chuck to unseat from the taper. If you are just using the DP for drilling, you can mount the chuck without the collar, using only the JT 33. The collar helps for any side load on the spindle, like sanding drums, or shaper attachments.

You might get better leverage by holding onto the drive pulley.

Rosco-P
11-13-2012, 11:17 AM
1) As far as applying force to it, I put a wedge between the lock nut and the chuck and hit it very hard with a hammer and again it did not budge. If the chuck screws on and you don't get it off the threads then trying to wedge it off will not work.

2) This is what I'm not sure of, does the chuck screw off or does it get forced off with a wedge or some other type of tool????

3) Does the pressure of unscrewing the lock nut force off the chuck???

4) I put the chuck key in the chuck and held it from turning while another person used a pair of channel locks to try and force the lock nut against the chuck but he could not get the lock nut to force off the chuck. The grip on the lock nut with the channel locks kept slipping and he could not get it to apply enough pressure to bring the lock nut any further down against the chuck.

5) Another question, does the lock nut squeeze the taper tighter when it is wound up or does it squeeze the taper tighter when it is wound down against the chuck???

6) And right now I'm not sure when we first tried to remove the chuck exactly where the lock nut was. Was it against the chuck or was it raised up and away from the chuck, don't remember where it was.

7) Or I guess another question would be, how does one free up a chuck that does not turn very easily with a chuck key??? And hopefully without having to remove the chuck to accomplish this.

foreman33

Some answers:

#1) It is a chuck with a 33 taper, a short taper. The chuck is held on by an interference fit between the spindle and the chuck taper. It doesn't screw on, the collar screws onto threads above the taper and helps to retain the chuck. Smacking the chuck and spindle with a wedge and hammer probably did more harm than good.

#2) As above the chuck mounts on a 33 taper.

#3) The chuck is forced off the taper by the action of unscrewing the collar. Some jackass may have applied a product like Locktite between the chuck and spindle taper.

#4) Did you try this with a proper sized pin spanner?

#5) The locking collar does not affect the taper. It secures the chuck once it is on the taper and pushes it off for removal.

#6) In "use" the locking collar would be separated or raised up from the chuck.

#7) Chuck needs to be removed from the taper or spindle and disassembled (pressed apart). Some chucks are worth rebuilding with new jaws, nut, etc., some not.

Rich Carlstedt
11-13-2012, 03:48 PM
Put a 1/2" rod in the chuck and tighten it as you would a drill bit.
Lower the quill a 1/2" ( NO MORE ) and then lock the rod to the table by clamping in a vice, or rotating the table so the rod can be clamped to its side . Now try to retract the quill to the full upward position while using a spanner wrench on the "un" locking collar.
If you don't have a spanner, then a punch and hammer will do, but that is tough on equipment.

Using the rod does several things. It allows an additional seperation forcce to be applied ( couple of hundred pounds ) and when the chuck comes loose, it will not fall on the floor and be damaged. Also by using a large rod (1/2") the jaws stay up inside the chuck body which helps prevent springing the jaws . Lastly, you do not want to hit the collar if the quill is way out ( like 3 ") , as you may damage the quill and housing

Rich

Its probably a good fit !

BigMike782
11-13-2012, 04:49 PM
My Rockwell D/P does not have a locking collar just a Jacobs taper spindle.

dfw5914
11-13-2012, 06:26 PM
The spindle should look similar to this with the chuck removed
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n188/pmhurco/March2011003a-1.jpg

foreman33
11-14-2012, 11:00 AM
Rosco & All,

Thanks to all of you for your help on resolving my issue on how to remove a chuck from a Rockwell drill press. I finally was able to remove the chuck from the drill press. We put the end of the chuck key, the handle, in the chuck and held it using a pipe wrench to help hold the chuck from turning while I took a punch and and put into the holes on the lock nut and beat it with a hammer.

Low and behold, the chuck finally came off after several wacks with the hammer. It was really on there. Probably has never been removed before.

So after finally get the chuck off we put it in a press to force the outer collar off the chuck only to find that some pieces of teeth from the splines were broken off in there and that was causing it to be difficult to turn when the chuck was on the drill press. So we just scraped it and put a keyless chuck on there and it works fine now.

Yes indeed, the chuck was held on there by the lock nut and when I spun it to the left by beating it with the hammer it finally came off. The lock nut is held onto the chuck with a retaining ring and seems it would be difficult to actually remove the retaining ring from inside the lock nut so that you could save the lock nut for further use. You don't have much room to seperate the retaining ring so that you can remove the lock nut. So we just scraped the whole piece.

The keyless chuck that we put on does not have a locking nut on it. It just presses on the spindle and seems like it will work just fine.

So, this has been a true learning experience for me. In my 69 years of life, 43 and a half of those in the maintenance department, I have never come across such a beast as this one. Well it goes to show you, you're never to old to learn something new.

Again, thanks to all of you for your help. I could not have accomplished this without your support and knowledge of machinery. You are indeed a knowledgeable and fine group of people. Continue helping people like me and the many others out there who have questions.

Thanks, and have a great day.

foreman33