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oxford
12-30-2012, 01:33 AM
I got a royal lever type collet closer with my Clausing 5914 when I bought it. After looking at some others that I have seen for sale, it appears that I am missing a plate with some notches in it that mounts to the spindle. What does this plate do and do I really need it to use the closer? Thanks.

DATo
12-30-2012, 04:56 AM
Not sure if this is what you need to know but the picture on the left shows the left side of my machine and the notched part is attached to the spindle. On the closer itself (next two pictures to the right) in the middle of the black housing at the 12 o'clock position you can see a small lever key which hinges downward. In the middle picture it is closed and in the pict to the far right it is open.

The drawbar proper is, of course, the tube extending away from the lever side of the unit. When the entire drawbar unit is installed in the spindle of the lathe the large, black housing is rotated. This allows the drawbar to engage the threads on the back of the selected collet you intend to use. One would continue to turn the black thingie till the proper closing pressure is achieved (tested by throwing the long lever arm till the collet closes tight on the workpiece). Once the tension is set the little hinged key discussed above is pushed down to seat in one of the notches closest to where the hinged key happens to be at that time. This locks the position of the collet closer so it will not move out of adjustment during subsequent opening and closing of the unit.

The notched part is attached to an adaptor plate which slides over the spindle. In the pict to the left it is the black thing behind the notched part (you might need this part too) and indicated with a dial test indicator to run true to the spindle. This balances it and keeps it from wobbling as the spindle turns.

I would think the part can be bought through a Royal distributor but if the price is outrageous I think this is something you could easily make to save some money. I don't think this locking aspect of the unit is entirely necessary but if you choose to run without it you might find that your clamping pressure will change the more you open and close the collet. Hope this will be of use to you.

http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/z430/D-D-DATonian/Royal_zpscf85c56f.jpg

beckley23
12-30-2012, 10:36 AM
You definitely need the notched adjusting ring, as pointed out above. It locks the adjustment and keeps the draw tube from unscrewing, or getting tighter. I've made them out of 4140 PH. They're not difficult to make. There are 24 notches.
Harry

oxford
12-30-2012, 10:52 AM
Thanks that does clear some thing up. Would you be able to tell me the OD of the ring is?

oxford
12-30-2012, 10:53 AM
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DATo
12-30-2012, 12:06 PM
Thanks that does clear some thing up. Would you be able to tell me the OD of the ring is?

Mine is 3 1/8 O.D.

DATo
12-30-2012, 12:17 PM
You definitely need the notched adjusting ring, as pointed out above. It locks the adjustment and keeps the draw tube from unscrewing, or getting tighter. I've made them out of 4140 PH. They're not difficult to make. There are 24 notches.
Harry

I think if you are only going to run one part the notch lock is not that important. Once the tension is created by throwing the long locking lever the part is held firmly till you release it - that has been my experience anyway at times when I've forgotten to set the locking key. But you are quite correct in the case of running production (lots of parts) because each time the collet clamping tension is released you introduce the possibility of movement of the drawbar's threads relative to the threads of the collet and many repetitions could cause it to loosen a little bit each time.

jimsehr
12-30-2012, 12:47 PM
Royal no longer makes lever type collet closers but they have parts for them. Google Royal lever collet parts.
jimsehr

beckley23
12-30-2012, 05:02 PM
"I think if you are only going to run one part the notch lock is not that important"

I done that a time, or two, and regretted it. It gets worse as the RPM increases.
Harry

DATo
12-30-2012, 06:21 PM
"I think if you are only going to run one part the notch lock is not that important"

I done that a time, or two, and regretted it. It gets worse as the RPM increases.
Harry

I'll take your word for it and thanks for the warning. I'd rather be safe than sorry. Just because it hasn't happened to me in the past doesn't mean it couldn't happen in the future.

Boucher
12-30-2012, 06:56 PM
Unless you are doing lots of parts the lever is in the way. I like the hand wheel actually I have a tube a little larger than the draw tube with a spanner hole in it. Nothing very far from the rotating axis so it is extremely well balanced. Most small parts need to turn faster. For larger work ER 32 or ER 40 chucks are easier to use.

oxford
12-30-2012, 07:20 PM
After looking at the spindle on my lathe, it appears that the spindle adapter to bolt the locking ring to is there, just the ring is missing. I am going to keep an eye out on ebay to see if one pops up. I hear you about the hand wheel closer and for my purposes with this lathe one would probably be fine. I don't see myself running off production jobs on it. In the mean time if anyone has a spare ring floating around let me know.

Forestgnome
12-30-2012, 08:42 PM
I just looked into this. It's part# R185703, locating ring. They quoted me $135.60. Not a bad price considering other obsolete machine parts I've looked at. It's a hardened piece.

oxford
12-31-2012, 04:55 PM
Thanks for the price update. That is a little more than I would like to spend, but you are right, it probably isn't really that bad of a price.

JoeLee
01-01-2013, 02:09 PM
I just looked into this. It's part# R185703, locating ring. They quoted me $135.60. Not a bad price considering other obsolete machine parts I've looked at. It's a hardened piece.
Your also going to need and adapter for the locating ring so you can mount it to the end of your spindle. It's also recommended by Royal that the the run out on the ring be less than .0005 both on the face where the fingers push and on the ID where the tube slides through.
You can make the spindle adapter out of 12L as I did for my 5900.

JL.................

oxford
01-01-2013, 02:47 PM
Thanks JL. It looks like the adapter is still on the lathe. There is a piece that has 3 tapped holes in it on the end of my spindle. I am assuming that this is what the ring bolts to.

JoeLee
01-01-2013, 02:49 PM
Here is a pic of my 5900 with the ring mounted. If you decide to make an adapter just make sure you leave enough space behind the ring to get you fingers in there to pull the spindle lock pin out.
I made my second adapter a snug fit to the spindle, the first one I made moved too much when I tightened down the set screws, so I made a second one with a bit closer tolerances. I used a threaded rod and nut to pull the adapter on the spindle, I wasn't about to take a hammer to it. The adapter sitting on top of the machine was for a larger lathe, it came with the closer when I bought it.

JL...............
http://i911.photobucket.com/albums/ac317/JoeLee09/MY%20Clausing%205900%20Lathe/Image003.jpg

oxford
01-01-2013, 03:28 PM
Thanks. I wished my 5900 looks as nice as yours.