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View Full Version : Turcite - Rulon - Garlock - Moglice



Shuswap Pat
04-18-2013, 09:36 AM
I have my older 17" Economaster ripped apart for a major rebuild. the carriage is off, and needs some TLC, so I was going to re-machine the way surfaces, and add some slide material. The question is what, and what is relatively easy to get out here in BC? Any suggestions, recommendations, sources.

Thanks

Patrick

Forestgnome
04-18-2013, 09:48 AM
Micarta is easy to get.

Richard King
04-18-2013, 09:55 AM
Contact these guys, they may have a Canadian Distributor.
http://www.tstar.com/default.asp?source=GoogleAdWords&gclid=CLLEqe6u1LYCFYtDMgodyS0AQA

dian
04-19-2013, 06:03 AM
i think you should decide, if you want to pour or scrape.

Richard King
04-19-2013, 08:11 AM
I have installed all of them, so if you need any help please ask via a PM as I sometimes forget to look at the posts I comment in. After the PM I will post the answer here. Rich

Richard King
04-20-2013, 12:53 PM
I PM'ed Pat and here is what I wrote. I figured I should share it with the group:


I just ordered some from Tri Star, here is a copy of their prices:

CE 211-R 2 part Epoxy with .003" glass beads
Quart - $75.14 per kit with spatula

RULON 142 etched tape

.032/.031" x 12" wide by 84" (7ft) long
$17.15 per square ft
$120.05 per pc
Stock IL

.047" x 12" wide at 84" (7 ft) long
$25.72 per square ft
$180.04

The key to installing it is CLEAN and Roughness.

I will rough scrape the part to get it flat and square before I glue on the Turcite so when you do the final scrape you only remove a few thousands. I also cut the material 1 " longer then what the part is, because when you set the part down on the machine it will slide. To avoid this be sure the machine is level.

I forgot what your going to use it on, but the instructions are the same. You need to clean the part so there is no grease and oil present. In some very old iron that has absorbed years of oil or grease, I use a bottled propane hand held torch to heat up the surface to sweat out the oil. Don't get it super hot, say 200F. You can see the oil wick out and turn the metal yellowish brown.

Have some white cloth to wipe up the oil, and when you have most of it out the white cloth will not get dirty when you wipe it. I also use acid-tone or spray brake cleaner to wet the cloth, but have to be supper careful not to set it on fire if you touch the flame to the cloth or can. after you have it clean, then you need to roughen the surface. I have a power scraper and I scratch the heck out of it. Glass bead blasting also works when I am in a shop that has a cabinet and the part will fit in it. If you don't then mill it with a fly cutter and fast feed to grove the part. Moglice says to rough it up so when you look at it, your eyeballs bleed. After you rough t file or stone it to remove the higher burrs. to double check the thickness I do a dry run by cutting 4 - 1" x 1" (aprox) to set the part on the machine to be sure it all works with that size and .003" glass beads.

Then clean the surface again using the fast dry brake cleaner in a spray can. When you spray it start in the middle and spray out so your not spraying the crud into the part. Then spray the other way. Or start to spray on one side and spray all the way across the part. Then spray the dark side of the Turcite with it, hold up and spray top to bottom, I usually do it over a waste can. Set aside or in a plastic bag.

I use rubber gloves, as the glue is a mess.

You need to get a piece of sheet metal, a glass plate or some plex-i-glass to mix the 2 part epoxy on. I set each can with one on the let side and one on the right side. I use 4 spoons, and 2 - 1" putty knifes usually teaspoons but have used measuring cups too for big projects. Open the 2 cans and then I take 2 of the spoons on part 1 can, scoop it out a teaspoon and then scrape off to make flat the extra glue, then use the clean spoon to scoop out the first spoon onto a pile on left side of plate. The directions you get in the box will tell you how much glue you will need, but I always mix extra, just in case. Then scoop out part 2 in the same manner. Be sure to count the spoonfuls as the Rulon Glue is measured by volume and not weight. Then close the cans and mix up the 2 piles together. Mix and mix some more. Then the glue is blended and no streaks appear. Take your metal 1" putty knife and spread it on the part, I like to squish it down into the scratches and you will hear and feel the glass beads.

You will have to decide before you start if you are going to set the part on the bed where it goes or set heavy weights on it to dry off the machine. Or if its a gib...many things to think about. I usually put the Turcited part on the machine so the glue spreads out more evenly and if the degree's of the V-Way or flat if the angles have changed a little bit from scraping the glue will settle to fit it. If it's a saddle spray the bed ways with a die release agent wax or use waxed paper so where the glue squeezes out it won't stick to the bed ways. Then let it dry at least 12 hours, the instruction say 18 hours. before removing it, flipping it over and cleaning it nd scraping it.