View Full Version : Penetrating oil

03-30-2004, 06:52 PM
What are folks using for penetrating oil these days? Something I could spray on a rusted bolt the night before trying to bust it loose?

How about a rust protectant for bare metal? What are people using here?

Finally, where can I pick up the liquid glove stuff I've seen mentioned occasionally. I've tried three different auto parts stores, and they all gave me the cow eye stare.


03-30-2004, 06:57 PM
For liquid glove go to a vet, a paint store or agricultural feed store.

Mike W
03-30-2004, 07:51 PM
PB Blaster seems to work ok for a penetrating oil. I don't have a lot of faith in any of them.

03-30-2004, 08:08 PM
After years of trying different penetrating oils, I tried PB Blaster on the recommendation of this board. It does seem to work somewhat better then anything else I have used.
For bare metal, it depends. Sandaro Top-Cote, wax, CRC, tool black, oil, clear coat.

03-30-2004, 08:32 PM
Try Rust Check. It`s the best thing I have seen for rust prevention but takes quite awhile to work as a penetrating oil, since it is a lot thicker than most penetrating oils. If you assemble anything and use Rust Check as a lubricant, it will stay there for a long long time. I have seen some truely amazing results from use of this product and I know alot of people don`t believe it`s as good as it sounds, but try it and find out for yourself.

03-30-2004, 08:41 PM
For badly rusted bolts I usually spray on some acetylene http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

03-30-2004, 08:46 PM
Dear Evan: I have great respect for your knowledge, and would normally agree. But this has got my curiousity going. Acetylene is a gas. How do you do this? and why?

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Evan:
For badly rusted bolts I usually spray on some acetylene http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif</font>

03-30-2004, 08:49 PM
Combine with oxygen in an intense exothermic reaction http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

03-30-2004, 08:55 PM
I've had pretty good luck using PB blaster. By the way, it does a good job on the powder residue that accumulates in your semi-automatic gas operated guns.


03-30-2004, 09:08 PM
I agree with Evan, the "bright blue wrench" does wonders for loosening up rusted bolts.
Just let the part cool down before handling.

03-30-2004, 09:27 PM

03-30-2004, 09:42 PM
I gotta weigh-in with Evan and some of the others on the oxy/acetylene. Never found anything worth a damn that would actually "penetrate"....'cept maybe drill bits & mills!!

For rust prevention I tend to use never-seize and/or copper slip alot. Coating bolts/nuts/whatever that will someday once again, need to come off. Makes it alot easier just watch what you use for different temperature stuff (thats why I've got the two of 'em...one's got more nickel or something...probably the one thats not "copper" slip....haha)....anyhow...works for me...take care!


Jason J
03-30-2004, 09:59 PM
While it is true that most, so called, "penetrating oils" are pretty much worthless, there are a couple of exceptions. Namely, Kroil, as mentioned by Yorgatron, and CRC 556, if you can find it. It may be long gone, however. Both of these will actually disolve rust. Not instantly, of course, but they do work. Kroil is expensive and hard to find, but I have taken motors that are rusted solid and had them roll over freely after a couple of weeks of regular hosing down with CRC 556 and Kroil. (I am talking about engines that you couldn't beat the pistons out of with a sledge hammer.

The "gas axe" works well, if you don't have much time, especially if candle wax is used as a "penetrant".

[This message has been edited by Jason J (edited 03-30-2004).]

03-30-2004, 10:39 PM
Ok, while we are on the subject of penetrating oils, where does GIBBS fit into this picture? I've heard people swearing this is the best, and it is expensive...
Oh yeah, almost forgot, for liquid glove, try a safety supply...
Jim http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//smile.gif

[This message has been edited by shaque (edited 03-30-2004).]

jim davies
03-30-2004, 10:54 PM
The very best penetrating oils are about as effective as a rain dance. Heat is the only thing that works, although many do not allow enough time to let the heat penetrate. I have even heated only the fastener, alternately heating and moving away from the small area of the end while waiting for the heat to slowly go down to the rust. Luckily, the very rust you want to free up seems to work as a pretty good heat barrier, tending to keep the surrounding area cool. When the rust gets hot enough it seems to act and look like a liquid lubricant. Obviously, you are only going to do it this way if you can't heat up the casting which is much quicker.

03-30-2004, 11:34 PM
I have heated up slow the entire offending area and used a pair of cool vise-grips as a clamp on heat sink,works best in cast iron.

J Tiers
03-31-2004, 01:19 AM
PBlaster has worked for me.

Never tried "Farty Artie's", but the ad in HSM caught my attention.........

03-31-2004, 01:24 AM
I've also used Kroil. Kroil is also good at getting lead fouling out of firearms.

Jim Hubbell
03-31-2004, 04:54 AM
LPS-3 is a good rust preventitive and also waterproofs leather boots. Liquid Wrench sometimes works as a penitrating oil. A blunt tool in an air chisel will loosen up nuts rusted solid. I have loosened 2" thread nuts that had been on for forty years. Came off by hand. Never-sieze on steam pipe fittings will allow them to be removed later.

Mike W
03-31-2004, 05:59 AM
I like your answers Evan. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

04-01-2004, 02:42 PM
My best luck with penetrating oil is Kroil- 30 dollars a gallon (few years back) but it lasts longtime. Next is PB Blaster.

JAson Makes reference to "candle wax" as penetrant. Never tried candle wax, but raw bee's wax sure works well. Amazingly well for me. You heat the rusted part, touch bee's wax at the joint, let it sizzle. The joint usually becomes free in moments.

Nothing works (for me) when salt water is involved in the seizing.

Some time back, mention was made of "washing powder" and electricity. Few days ago, I uncovered a coffee can of 60 penny nails, rusted into a lump. Decided to try the "washing soda/electricity" suggestion (made while back).
I Put the can of nails into a larger can, chunk of wood on bottom (to act as insulator). Punched holes in the coffee can to let liquid in both cans mix. Used a 12 volt battery charger and VARIAC to control amperage. Ran it over night, rust pretty well gone, next evening it would pronounce the nails mostly clean of rust. Funny thing was that my connections were to the two cans. I expected little current would flow in the inner liquid and thus no real action- but what the hell!.

I hoped for a little action on the nails but I got a lot. Just for grins, I Connected to one nail (in the middle of the bunch) shoved the nail back in and the rest of the nails came out bright too. All the paint on the coffee can either floated to the surface or kind of plated to the outer cans inner walls.

Now I am going to try (soon I hope), putting a dam of some sort around a rust seized part, pour in the washing powered solution and run (via a current limiter (lamp bulb)) current through the parts. I know the parts will be electrically "shorted" but the resistance will be some what greater, so the current may remove the rust and junk. I mention this so any one who might wish to try, can do so and report back if it works or not.

Sure would be nice to discover a way to electrically remove the rust (and salts).

I had little confidence in the washing soda, electricity suggestion when it was made. Based on a single, jury rigged trial, i would say it deserves investigation in depth. Might even be a money maker for someone (good ideas are dime a dozen- it the sweat that follows them that counts).

Mike W
04-01-2004, 04:13 PM
I have used the above process. You can also make a water/acid solution that will take off chrome and rust. I am going to try that next.

04-02-2004, 12:07 AM
Let us know how you do that, and what kind of acid...
Jim http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//smile.gif

04-02-2004, 12:20 AM
I have removed chrome plating using electrolyte which is sulphuric acid and a battery charger.
Use a plastic container for the acid. Suspend the part in acid by a coper wire. use a lead anode, also hanging from copper wire. As I recall, anode is positive, work negative. You will see bubbles form around prt a plating is being removed. It goes quickly, so be ready to rinse the part copiously with water or a solution of baking soda.
Rubber gloves and eye protection are a must of course.

04-02-2004, 01:49 AM
I am on the Kroil banwagon too. As a matter of fact, yesterday I recieved an order from them. 1 gallon of Kroil-$20.75. They will also send you a free can of one of their lubricating products with an order. I chose an aerosol can of "penephite", a graphite/kroil cocktail in a spray can. If it's free, it's for me, I always say.

04-02-2004, 01:51 AM
Oh yeah, their website is www.kanolabs.com. (http://www.kanolabs.com.)

04-02-2004, 03:41 AM
Thanks guys. I'll give the kroil a try. I seem to recall hearing that name around the firearm circles as well. The pb blaster is another good option which I have used on firearms in the past, but it gets put away in the gun cleaning box and ends up out of sight, out of mind.

I like to use the torch as well, but the last two frozen fastener jobs I've had were at the rear of the car right next to the fuel tank. Thought I'd try a non flame approach before I drug out the blankets and such to cover the tank/lines.


Ed ke6bnl
04-02-2004, 09:17 AM
I tried Kroil, I bought there sample package and I did not think it worked well and went back to PB Blaster. The heat tick is the best when possible. The kroil was used up oiling my air tools. Ed kesd6bnl

Ed ke6bnl
Agua Dulce, Ca.
70 mi. S.E. of Los Angeles