View Full Version : lawn mower belts

07-12-2013, 08:17 PM
I have a John Deere riding mower and am really tired of replacing belts , it has the coged type that hold the blades from hitting each other . The trouble is it dosen't take much to break them and at 70 bucks a pop its getting expensive . Has anyone used chain to drive the blades ? Was hoping that wood work and last . The blades run at about 3600 rpm . 35 chain or 41chain wood be enough?

07-12-2013, 08:29 PM
All of the mower decks I am familiar with have the blades offset from one another so that they can not contact each other. My commercial mowers the belts cost $50-60 and usually last 1-2 seasons, unless I choke the mower down and burn the belts. I don't know if chain is going to operate at the RPM's needed to mow. Have you looked on-line for replacement belts. I know the dealers can be pretty expensive vs. on-line pricing if you're not a "commercial" customer. I buy blades for $7 vs. the average joe walking in and getting them for $20+.

07-12-2013, 08:44 PM
My mower has the the blades that over lap and have to be timed sos not to hit the only place I have found to buy them is John Deere ( the belts are very thin and not that strong ) . Does the chain company have information on how fast the chain can run and still work . Guess I will have to give that a go.

Ron of Va
07-12-2013, 08:51 PM
I just ordered some replacement belts for my John Deere. I got them for less than half the price of the ones from the dealer. The belts made for John Deere lawn tractors, are made with, and covered on the outside by Kevlar, the same stuff body armor is made from.

Find the model number of the blade belt. Use that number to search on ebay. For the ones my tractor uses, the price spread was from about $20-$50.

My original belt lasted about10-12 years. I tried to get by cheap by buying a “fan belt” of the same length as my mower used (111.3 inches X 5/8”) I paid about $16 for it. It lasted 4 months. Enough said, lesson learned. I gotta go for the Kevlar covered belt.

BTW Never heard of blades that could hit each other under any circumstances.

Bob Fisher
07-12-2013, 09:20 PM
My John Deere 42 in deck is 12 yrs old, original belt. Doesn't seem to make sense to have blades that can hit one another! Bob.

07-12-2013, 09:52 PM

Can't help with the belt, other than to say nothing empties a wallet like a Deere.

But over lapping timed blades are out there. I have an International with such a deck.


07-13-2013, 12:06 AM

These guys got 'em, at a good price.

Dave P.
07-13-2013, 12:19 AM
Ah yes.
The good old POS. Freedom 42 deck, you're lucky if you get away with just a belt, they usually jump time and eat
the blades before the belt breaks.
I'd look at someplace dealing with 8mm pitch HTD drives.
Never though about switching to chain.

07-13-2013, 12:24 AM
How about getting shorter blades that can't hit (or cut those off some) and regular V belt and pulleys?

Dave P.
07-13-2013, 12:47 AM
How about getting shorter blades that can't hit (or cut those off some) and regular V belt and pulleys?
That uncut strip of grass down the center of cut would be a interesting look....

07-13-2013, 12:52 AM
The idea is to make them almost touch, not with an inch gap in between. That's how my mower is and it doesn't leave any in the middle.

07-13-2013, 04:35 AM
Problem is if you look at a deck where the blades almost touch, the spindles aren't in line with each other, so they do offer 100% coverage if your moving fore and aft but never touch, might be a bit of work to change the timed system to this as it will involve moving spindle mounts on the deck.
I think my ride on lawnmower is rubbish for belt life too, but I'm sort of ok in that we have a tractor with a flail on for dealing with rougher stuff and use it just to get a good cut finish afterwards.

07-13-2013, 07:07 AM
First you have the fact that you all have super market equipment. I have a Kubota that is 23 years old that has only belts on the mower deck and they are original. The deck has a double molded 5/8 v-belt once a year or so i spray WD-40 on it that keeps the rubber soft and flexible. i also have 3 case now ingersol all my tractor mowers are hydraulic drive. I replaced a main drive belt for a JD and had to remove all types of items to install a new belt what a mess.

07-13-2013, 10:33 AM
I had to weld a transmission back together on a john deere mower a couple weeks ago. As the customer was pushing the mower into the shop he pushed the seat right off the mower as well. He handed me the seat and said fix this too. I was surprised at how cheap this mower was, it was the same cheap kind of quality you would expect out of a walmart mower.

07-14-2013, 05:11 PM
best belts i have found for my belt eating chipper shredder are the Gates Powerated , green kevlar,these are totally kevlar ,not just coated ,or covered.here in OK oreilly auto parts sells them(6929).dont know if those belts are made in cog style or not..Racers use coged belts too.try speedway motors,summit,jegs,good luck.

07-15-2013, 12:09 AM
I've got an old Woods 52" deck that I have to replace belts and blades on every season but it sure is a "Mowin Machine". :) Never thought of using chain but as long as there was a way to keep it clean and oiled, it should work. Look at the speed a chainsaw runs. But, I wouldn't do it unless the chain(s) were totally incased within a steel deck. If you hit something hard enough to stop a blade, chain pieces may go everywhere. Then there's chance of engine damage too. You would need some type of slip clutch.