View Full Version : Recommend upright compressors.

10-31-2013, 07:28 AM
OK guys. Old faithful defecated the bed after 28 years of service. 20 with my buddy and the last eight here.The tank becomes a BBQ and the motor will be stored.
Like everything else today, all I see is jucking funk for sale !
I have my eyes on this one. Anyone use it or recommend another.
5 HP preferred. Glass beading, die grinder, primering, needle gun, air/hyd press. Nothing terribly demanding.
Ingersoll SS5L5

10-31-2013, 08:47 AM
Read the customers review and then decide. Do you think that the free shipping will allow it to your destination.

10-31-2013, 10:03 AM
Read the customers review and then decide. Do you think that the free shipping will allow it to your destination.
Noop. We have a local dealer. It runs about $1400 here. I don't trust meathead reviews on those sites. Often it's just some office boy with a new toy that doesn't know one from another. Much like the fools swooning cheers over at Harboring Fright and the Northern Fool.

10-31-2013, 10:18 AM
If you can, get a two stage. The reserve air is stored at 175 PSI instead of 125 so the motor runs much less often. Easier on you and the machine.

10-31-2013, 10:22 AM
I have that same compressor and would not go that route again. I bought mine from Tractor Supply which saves on shipping cost. I would look for a Quincey or other older good quality compressor. I added a magnetic contactor to take the heavy current off the POS pressure switch. The only real failure has been the tube that connects the compressor to the tank. The fitting that it connects to is a double flare and is one size larger than avaliable from Snap On. The replumb to repair this turned into a nightmare. The pressure switch is hard to adjust and will be replaced with a Square D. The Compressor takes to long to pump up the last 5 psi. It is set to 120 cut out. The motor runs hot and trips the overload. I have proper wire and good voltage so that is not the source of this problem.

10-31-2013, 10:37 AM
If your tank is good and the motor is still running, perhaps the purchase of a new compressor head makes more sense.

I neither have or use this unit, but the suspected failure of the valves the reviewer mentioned struck me... I have a 25 year old Craftsman 220v 5 HP compressor that builds pressure just fine.

I don''t attribute that to the brand as much as I do to it's location. I installed this compressor in my basement and pipe the air out to the shop. The shop has a 25 gallon storage tank with an auxiliary drain.

My compressors oil gets changed once a year and the compressor has drawn inside, conditioned air for it's entire life. I air-condition the entire house... it keeps the machinery from rusting. We have high humidity here in Wisconsin during the summer, as high as 85%. Enough to cause stuff to rust overnight, especially with temperature swings that promote condensation.

I believe removing the humidity from the air stream before it is compressed has helped prolong it's life.. This does not mean that you don't need down-stream dryers, only that the life expectancy of yours compressor might be much better if you can remove the humidity before it enters your system.

Living where you do, I wondered if you shop is anywhere close to an air conditioned space... or am I just presuming that it is humid in your area?


10-31-2013, 10:40 AM
Did the pump wear out? Or the tank? A rebuild of thepump is out of the question, or a new tank?

Otherwise a Quincy is a good choice, forced lubrication in the better models.

10-31-2013, 12:35 PM
It seems these days you pays your money and you takes your chances. I have an IR horizontal compressor that has a 1986 manufacturing date (I'm its original owner, but don't remember when I bought it). Its still running strong. Its located in the garage and the air is piped into the shop. After taking an early out from HP cum Agilent, I spent 5 years working at the local Lowes as the tool department manager. We sold a lot of Campbell / Hausfeld compressors, as well as Kobalt (Lowes house brand, built by CH) to both homeowners and commercial shops. Some worked great and the buyers swore by them, others crapped out within the 90 day return period and the buyers swore at them. Never any rhyme nor reason.

10-31-2013, 12:45 PM
My friend got one of these several years ago, and he's very happy with it.


If you can find an old IR-built compressor which was sold by all sorts of places in the 1990s, you can take advantage of their recall to get a good deal straight from IR. I picked up one of the recalled units at the local pawn shop. Google ingersoll rand recall for this:


10-31-2013, 12:50 PM
Just my opinion.
That will not be satisfactory for the use you claim in your OP. I don't believe it will be up to the blasting operation. You will find yourself waiting for the compressor to "catch-up" too often. Two stage with high CFM and place the blaster close to the compressor. Also use the largest air line possible. Delivery of suitable air is the thing with blasting and air grinders.
I have a 3 HP (45 years or older) that was down for a bit this summer and the loaner I used was not able to keep up. Even though it was right next to the blaster. The way I had had the previous system set-up was lacking too until I installed 3/4" air line between the blaster and compressor. Now the blaster works well but I still have to allow the compressor to catch up. Five or better and higher CFM is required for blaster use. A friend had a 10 HP and 200 gal or larger tank and his blast set up was a joy to use. Cut the rust, etc. and didn't take all day to do it.

10-31-2013, 01:34 PM
If you want to buy a another compressor in five years buy the IR.

If you want to buy a new set of rings 30 years from now,buy a Quincy.

It's just that simple.

10-31-2013, 03:25 PM
You can never have too much compressor.

I purchased this :

about 6 years ago...It doesn't get as much use now as it did when I bought it, but there have been no issues. It probably runs at least once a day...some days when I'm sandblasting or running a sander, it'll be cycling for a few hours straight.

It's way more than I need, but I'll nobody will ever hear me bitch about not having enough air. I've heard others complain about problems with motors going bad in a year or so, but I've had no such problems. Mine has an Emerson motor.

Alistair Hosie
10-31-2013, 04:12 PM
Serious question how can a tank run out seems migh on impossible during normal use correct me please if I am wrong? Alistair

10-31-2013, 04:18 PM
I have two 1998 Quincy 310's, one for each shop. Love them... pressure lube, unloader, and you can have a normal conversation 5 feet way when they are running (inlet muffled). These are 3hp 2 stage models; I have no need for a 5hp or larger, but if I did I'd go Quincy again.

I expect these to way outlast me.

Dr Stan
10-31-2013, 05:56 PM
I too give Quincy the best of the best category. However, if they are too pricey and all you need is the pump take a look at these:




I do not have a clue if the Surplus Center will ship out of the US, but it may be worth an e-mail to them. I also agree with the statement about a 2 stage unit. They are much, much more efficient than a single stage.

10-31-2013, 06:25 PM
Serious question how can a tank run out seems migh on impossible during normal use correct me please if I am wrong? Alistair

Different compressors produce a different amount of air per stroke of the piston(s). Different tools consume (use) different amounts of air. My IR puts out 9.6 CFM at 90 psi. My nailers use about 2.4 CFM at 90 psi. I can run them through most projects on one fill of the tank. My midsize paint sprayer uses 8 CFM at 40 psi, so the compressor cycles now and then. The big paint gun however wants 14 CFM at 35 psi. I only get a couple of passes before the compressor cycles and I have to wait for the compressor to build up enough air for another pass.

Here's a link to a chart that shows some average consumptions. If the tool needs more air than available, the tank will "run out" and the compressor may not be able to keep up, causing poor performance or failure to perform by of the tool.


10-31-2013, 06:36 PM
See why I posted here ? My blaster is just a lil bead cabinet to clean up things. I'm not doing trailers. A piston or manifold now and again, a knife. a rusty tool etc(sometinmes baking soda medium).
Off to research Quincy. I'm too old to give a damn what it costs. All this crap goes to my gardener anyway. I HATE junk !

10-31-2013, 08:05 PM
The Quincy QR25 series is the pressure lubed type with screw-on oil filter. They also make a cheaper splash lubed pump, but go for the former.

10-31-2013, 09:02 PM
The Ingersoll-Rand SS-5 runs the pump way too fast and is way too underbuilt to rely on for more than occasional use. The specs look good, but push it at all hard and it overheats and breaks proprietary parts. If you can afford it, get a Quincy, Champion, Saylor-Beall or other big, heavy, slow-running compressor.

10-31-2013, 10:11 PM
I have looked at that IR parallel twin you are considering.
The pump was made in India. Over at Garage Journal,
guys seem not to like that model. Not sure if they are
making the type 30 pump in India. We have one at work
and I can't find a made in tag on the pump. There is a
made in China on the plastic air filter though.
I really like Jenny (the old Emglo) compressors. Still made
in Johnson city PA. Dewalt bought Emglo and now all the
Emglos are made in China, mostly diaphram jobbies.
Don't be fooled. Buy a real Emglo (now Jenny) and
they are great compressors. I have a 4 cylinder, single
stage. It works very well and is quiet. Gotta love that.
Really, a great air compressor in the shop is something
that tells you machine buddies that "you get it", and
not messing around. Same as owning a Kurt vise.
I am being slightly funny, but you get what I mean.