What a difference a good Keyless drill chuck would make. I picked up a brand new, still in the box. ROHM Spiro 0 -3/8 type 134 chuck a week ago at a yard sale. They said they couldn’t use it because there was no way to mount it on their drill. The good part was I got it for $5. I ordered a J2 X ½” straight arbor for it which came in the mail today. I used it on my little milling machine this afternoon and fell I love with it. I have several cordless drills that have keyless chucks, but nothing like this one.
WOW I would have never guessed
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I have an Albrecht and my dad used the drill press I had it on. He said "wow I have to get one of these for my pistol drill!" I said "Do you really want to put a $250 chuck on your $100 drill?" The Albrecht chucks are worth every penny.
McMaster Carr sells a pretty nice inexpensive one. It is an LFA 500 series, about $40 and very but tightens well because it is ball bearing.
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Some keyless chucks have wrench flats on them.
They are not for tightening the chuck.
They are there to loosen the chuck if the drill bit
really grabs into something, to loosen the chuck.
They are self tightening, and sometimes I have
taken out the drill bit, and the chuck left three
little lines where the jaws bit into the shank.
Real keyless chucks like Rohm and Albrecht are
the real deal. Not like chucks on cordless tools.
Buy one and see what you have been missing.
--DoozerDZER
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Like bandsawguy, I have had a keyless chuck tighten during work, so much so that in my case (a Jacobs chuck btw) that I had to dismantle the body to extract the cutter, but it was fruitless, the vibration had tightened it so much it broke several internal parts. So now if I ever use a large holesaw through steel, I switch to a keyed chuck, as it was using a holesaw that got me in stuck.
Aside from that keyless machine chucks are really very good, especially compared to the ones on cheap pistol drills.
Brian
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