View Full Version : Gorra3Dprinter

John Stevenson
12-15-2013, 04:34 PM
OK, last week found a guy who had bought one of the RS printers so went to have a look.

Machine is well build compare to the rest of the reprap machines but as I guessed it uses the same open source software as the kits.

I got him to print a small file I had which took 42 minutes and to be honest I wasn't impressed on the quality. Lacked square corners and furry in places with the layers clearly visible.

Having also seen and had a test print done by one of the UP printers, which incidentally took 25 minutes for the same part, bit the bullet and bought one.
Bought it from Cutwel [ yes correct spelling ] same price as everyone else but did get a deal on some ABS filament.

Set it up on the coffee table last night whilst relaxing with planning permission from her indoors. Very quiet, nearly silent and only a whiff of smell from the ABS but hey it's testing time.

Dead easy to setup, first print came out perfect [ pics later ] had a couple of problems on later prints getting started but it was down to me not following a procedure, once this procedure is picked up so far every print has come out OK.

So far printing off the spare parts needed in the event of a breakdown which are on the disc.
Done one spiral bevel gear which has finished up with an awesome surface finish.

Plenty of gizmo's to print if you fancy over at Thingiverse but what i have noticed is that in most cases the finish I'm getting is far better than the ones shown, presumably done on repraps ?

From what I can gather the secret of the UP's in in the software and the way it supports the work. One part i have printed is a clamp to hold the belt on the X axis and it has two small slots for the belt to go though.
It looked to have printed solid but when stripping there were two support pads keeping the two sides apart which when cooled easily pulled out.

Weston Bye
12-15-2013, 04:55 PM
So... When are you going to print a Webley .45?

The media over here has been all aflutter about printing plastic guns and trotting out "experts", some of whom are calling for registration of 3D printers.


12-15-2013, 05:03 PM
Gotta see pictures.
Did you get the UP2?

John Stevenson
12-15-2013, 05:29 PM
Pics later. It's printing 5 spare parts as I type.

Very very impressed with the quality and ease of use.

Yes Dave got the UP2 Plus, did a lot of homework on this and to be honest it looked to be the best for the entry level machines.
Just media hype, why would I want to print a gun when I have lathes and mills coming out my ears. Anyway even if I had made a gun where in the UK do Iget ammunition ?

loose nut
12-15-2013, 05:30 PM
How can something that can be built at home be registered.

Weston Bye
12-15-2013, 05:37 PM
... why would I want to print a gun when I have lathes and mills coming out my ears...?

My thoughts exactly, but the media seems to neglect this fact. We are informed by idiots.

Weston Bye
12-15-2013, 05:42 PM
But I digress.

I have given vague passing thoughts about replacing the spindle on my homemade CNC mill with an extruder head. Drawbacks?

I suppose I should first learn to design in 3D.

12-15-2013, 05:52 PM
I had been leaning toward one of the Rostock (Delta) models but have not had a chance to see any output. I appreciate your research.
You need to get some green filament and print out some Blidgports keychains ;-)

loose nut
12-15-2013, 06:44 PM
But I digress.

I have given vague passing thoughts about replacing the spindle on my homemade CNC mill with an extruder head. Drawbacks?

I suppose I should first learn to design in 3D.

Don't replace the spindle, put a shank on it so it will fit in a collet.

12-15-2013, 06:57 PM
Just media hype, why would I want to print a gun when I have lathes and mills coming out my ears. Anyway even if I had made a gun where in the UK do Iget ammunition ?

Ah Weedwacker just a few more machines for your shop and you can make all you want you can get it all here http://www.ssarmory.com/ammunitionmanufacturingequipment.aspx
mom will need to make room in the kitchen so you van cook up the stuff that goes bang :)

John Stevenson
12-16-2013, 05:34 AM


Some of the spares for the printer being done, all the small parts are belt clamps that in the event of a major crash, break.
Big bit is something to do with the feed spool.

The raft is clearly shown and the fuzzy bits are where it's changing from solid to support which is printed a lot differently.
The really fuzzy bits on the part bottom left are the supports for the holes so they don't collaspe.


Another shot of the same job. this is just after it finished printing and nothing has been touched.


Finished bits with the supports pulled off. Centre piece bottom left had two flat supports like packers either side of that L shaped piece that just needed a bit of help with a craft knife to poke out, not cut as they weren't fastened and stuck to the surface.


Now the obligatory bearing.
Just as it finished printed. Second post to follow due to the 4 pic limit.

12-16-2013, 05:39 AM
Very nice John,

The offer to take it off your hands when you are bored with it still stands :)


John Stevenson
12-16-2013, 05:46 AM

Upside down shot after scraping off the perf bed.


Shot with the raft snapped off, just pulled this off with my fingers, smaller parts often want a knife to peel them or a finger nail. You can see one ball support has come off with the support raft, just needs the others picking off.


Finished bearing. Quality is not bad but I sped the process up by selecting 0.3mm hight of layer and hollow fill. this printed in just under the hour.
If I had gone to 0.15 hight and solid then it would probably
have taken 3 to 4 hours.
I printed to spare parts in solid as they need mechanical strength, this is just arty farty although it does spin.
Quality is about as good as Bridgeport spindle bearings.

Last one is a spiral bevel gear from Art Fenerty's Gearotic program.


Bit disappointed with this picture as in the plastic it's a lot better than it looks, again hollow fill to speed the process up but finish is good. 1 hour 35 minutes to do this.

Programming is automatic, load the STL file and it places it in the best position although you do have a choice.
Press print and if you want you can disconnect the laptop and do something else whilst it carries on.

Overall quite impressed.

12-16-2013, 07:42 AM
That is impressive. That was ABS?
Does it have a heated bed?
I like the gear.

John Stevenson
12-16-2013, 08:14 AM
Yes ABS only bought that the cheaper PLA isn't as good as regards mechanical properties.
Yes heated bed, you need this to make it stick and to help the next layer stick to the first.

I have found that it helps to pre-heat the bed before starting to print, you get more consistent results.
However it won't start printing until the bed and nozzle is up to a certain temperature, pre heating whilst setting up just helps

12-16-2013, 08:27 AM
Cool, I look forward to seeing more parts. A nice piece of kit.
Have fun.

12-16-2013, 10:53 AM
that is really really cool, can't wait to see what you make with it.

12-16-2013, 11:42 AM
I have a MakerBot and have to admit, I could watch it run for hours. Your build platform looks like expanded material (like metal grating). Is that an illusion or is it flat? I have to use hairspray on my MakerBot bed to get prints to stay stuck down. The bed is flat and covered with Kapton tape. Even so, pre-heating (sometimes over heating) the platform does do enough to make a print stick. That perforated bed looks like it would address that issue.

12-16-2013, 11:51 AM
You might consider building a cabinet for it ventilated to outdoors or through a carbon filter. Turns out the fumes from hot abs are not very good for you.


12-16-2013, 02:31 PM
One thng I have done for moving parts prints (initialy out of desperation)
is to use the orange goop hand cleaner as lapping compoud.
Worked like a charm on locked up herringbone planatary someone printed.

J Tiers
12-16-2013, 08:36 PM
Quality on those looks as good as what we were getting 25 years ago from very expensive "instant prototype" companies.... I still have some pieces to compare, but I can't see what the porosity is on yours.

I'd estimate about a 5 thou + bumpiness of surface on what we got back then. They had to be filled and sanded to look good.

Prices back then for the output of the machines were around what the whole machine probably costs now.

John Stevenson
12-17-2013, 04:48 AM
I think the secret is down to software. After all the machine is only a computer controlled 3 axis linear machine and there hasn't been nothing new in that line for quite a few years.

Probably also accounts for all the poor quality parts i have seen have been powered by the same open source software. No reason for that not to change in the near future though if you can get 7 committee's to agree :D

It is a fast moving market though. I don't think prices will drop a lot though, it will be like video recorders, there will always be a base manufacturing cost and any improvements will be in software features so you get more for the same money.

12-17-2013, 10:10 AM
I had some parts printed in ABS. The jeweler invesed them in a clear silicone to make an injection mold for wax. The mold included the sprue and riser. The parts were cast using the Lost Wax method. In this case it was decorative and the print levels were set fairly thick for the desired surface texture.
I do not know if you could skip the silicone/wax step and just burn out the ABS. The clear Silicone was needed to see where to cut the model out of the mold.

12-17-2013, 05:14 PM
Dont you know your not supposed to open Christmas presents early.


12-17-2013, 07:54 PM
OK.... I have to ask. $1600?