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gzig5
08-29-2014, 03:11 PM
Anyone have any experience with these clamps that hold two parts at 90 degrees to get a square weld? Several different brands out there at multiple price points. There is also a three axis one that looks really neat. I'm going to be putting a couple tables together and I thought this would help get the parts aligned. I know there are other ways to do it, but my space is cramped and I don't have an extra set of hands. Really just wanting to know your experience and if there is a supplier to stay away from.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SHARS-3-11-32-WELDER-WELDING-MOLDING-90-ANGLE-CLAMP-CORNER-CLAMP-BENCH-VISE-/350557366928?pt=BI_Tool_Work_Holding&hash=item519ed8ea90

3 axis
http://www.eastwood.com/3-axis-welding-clamp.html

Tony
08-29-2014, 03:45 PM
Personally, I've never used them ... in the 'demos' you always see them used to set up 2 or
3 pieces (if using the 3 axis).. i.e., one joint. but they never show using it to put together,
say, the last leg of the table/frame/etc.

I can't imagine it being much help after the first or maybe second joint is put together and your
assembly starts to have some real weight to it. Maybe you need 4 of them?

I've always liked the right angle magnets .. tack weld all around, break out the tape measure
and check the diagonals. Have the "fine tuning" hammer at the ready. :D

You didn't ask, but my best investment to speading up frames/weldments is a good work
table. I recently drilled an array of holes in the (5/8") top.. I can drop pins / spacers in and
it use that to line things up -- reduces the amount fine-tune hammering.;)

RussZHC
08-29-2014, 04:11 PM
Tony is pretty much right on as far as I am concerned...a good work table or perhaps even an actual welding table is the place to start and is what I have never had...putskying around with small but flat surface and calling it a "table" gets old quick.
That is part of the reason I got a couple of those 2 angle versions from Strong Hand. For me it helps, you can sort of set up one side (if that makes any sense) and then work you way around but as Tony said, very soon you start getting to some weight and awkwardness.
The items I have found most useful from Strong Hand are their smaller magnets for doing tabs and those reinforcement triangle for corners...they are small, relatively cheap and make things go a bunch faster since you can have lots of them.
Again, Tony is exactly right, I don't think right angles (however you get to them) and measuring diagonals will go away as preferred any time soon. I take looks at "winchman" work and hazard a guess that the set ups are pretty simple, consistent and work very well.

PeteM
08-29-2014, 04:56 PM
I've had both an import and Bessey version of the right angle clamp shown in your first link.

The Bessey was much better made. Could be the Shars isn't bad; but judging from my import I wouldn't buy one again.

There's also a vise grip type plier (made by Grip-On) that will hold sheet metal at right angles; to TIG up a box etc. Actually a bunch of Grip-On pliers meant for auto body welding.

Ridgerunner
08-29-2014, 04:57 PM
I have a couple and like them very much. Mine are the Strong Hand brand. They make it nice if you want to adjust the gap for weld penetration.

http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l539/ridgerunner1212/Stronghandclamps1-Copy.jpg

http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l539/ridgerunner1212/Stronghandclamps2-Copy.jpg

http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l539/ridgerunner1212/Stronghandclamps3-Copy.jpg

http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l539/ridgerunner1212/Stronghandclamps4-Copy.jpg

Bob Ford
08-29-2014, 06:23 PM
Spend your money on learning basics. Set gap for penetration, Check with square, Tack weld in center ( tack weld is 3/16 to inch in diameter), Check with square and tack weld in one end. Move to next joint and repeat. When assembled and all looks good weld all joints taking care you do not over weld and cause warp.

Bob

garyhlucas
08-29-2014, 07:05 PM
Those are neat tools if you do lots of that kind of joint. I prefer tools that are more versatile. I am getting ready to drill and tap the welding table in our shop so we can have hold downs anywhere. I am going to make long sliding clamps from two pieces barstock welded together to make a slot, that pull up against a stud and have an acme adjusting screw. I made a similar much heavier set to hold down parts on a 30" x 60" milling table some years ago. Everybody laughed when they first saw it but we actually used it a lot.

randyjaco
08-29-2014, 07:25 PM
I really like mine. They are just the thing if your set up table is a concrete floor. Most of us hobbyists don't have a good set up table, but don't just buy one get at least 2 or better yet get 4. Then you can quickly do about any square or rectangle.

Randy

Rosco-P
08-29-2014, 07:36 PM
+1 to what BobFord says. Part of welding skill is learning to work with heat induced distortion, not fight against it with a clamp. If I had to weld on the floor or repair stuff on the floor, I'd save money for a bench before I spent any of that money on jigs and fancy clamps (to make welding on the floor easier).

Black Forest
08-30-2014, 12:37 AM
I agree with Tony on having a good welding and fixturing table. Of course it is more expensive but once you have one you will wonder how you lived without one.
My table is the most used tool in my shop. The holes don't need to be threaded. The tooling just slips in and holds from the sideways pressure. Getting right angles is easy with the grid of holes and the scribed lines set at 50mm grid.

http://i853.photobucket.com/albums/ab91/burnandreturn/siegmundtable_zpsb08f1a04.jpg (http://s853.photobucket.com/user/burnandreturn/media/siegmundtable_zpsb08f1a04.jpg.html)

metalmagpie
08-30-2014, 01:09 PM
Been welding all my life. Please listen to me. I've tried EVERYTHING. What has it all boiled down to? A humble small turnbuckle. Clamp your two parts to a table. Tack turnbuckle at 45 degrees. Tack corner. Adjust turnbuckle to open or close the angle. Place second tack. Loosen turnbuckle. If the corner stays square move to the next one. Get them all tacked before you solidly weld anything. Learn to tack so it minimizes warpage. Think of tacks as little springs.

I don't have anything against those Bessey or StrongHand clamps. I just wouldn't spend the money on them and would have a hard time finding a place to store them if I had some.

metalmagpie

bborr01
08-30-2014, 02:22 PM
A couple of years ago I bought a bunch of large c clamps and there were a couple of Wilton brand corner clamps that came with them. I used them for the first time a few weeks ago and they work great. I needed to weld some 2" square tubing at a 90 degree angle so I just laid the tubing on my welding table and put the clamp over the top and tightened the clamp.

I probably would never have gone out and bought them new but now that I have used them I can say that they really do work well.

Brian

MichaelP
08-30-2014, 08:40 PM
I use both, 2- and 3-axis clamps (by Strong Hand) and like them very much.

vpt
08-30-2014, 09:10 PM
I have a few cheap little ones I can only imagine are designed to hold small wooden boxes together for stapling. However I like them and wish I had bigger ones like in the links. Some day I may spring for one or a couple of the bigger ones.

R W
08-31-2014, 10:36 PM
They are not essential but there are times when they make things easier and quicker.

gzig5
09-02-2014, 10:34 AM
Seems to be a bit of a mixed bag in the responses. I missed out on the 3-axis one on ebay I was looking to get. Lack of space to layout and work were the driver for looking at these clamps, so this weekend I attacked the root of the problem and cleaned up and reconfigured my garage shop. Having recently sold a lathe and a mill created some space but it was poorly utilized. Two days of building, grunting, and sweeping and now I have a pretty decent workspace. I had a friend help me put a 3'x6' piece of 1/2" steel plate on top of the wood work table (that sucker is HEAVY!). I'll eventually build a steel base for it, but for now I finally have a large surface I can setup and weld on. I still think these clamps would be helpful, but I don't feel the need to run out and get one until I run into trouble. Being able to tack to the table will be a big advantage over working on the lumpy concrete floor.

Davidhcnc
09-25-2014, 02:45 PM
Been welding all my life. Please listen to me. I've tried EVERYTHING. What has it all boiled down to? A humble small turnbuckle. Clamp your two parts to a table. Tack turnbuckle at 45 degrees. Tack corner. Adjust turnbuckle to open or close the angle. Place second tack. Loosen turnbuckle. If the corner stays square move to the next one. Get them all tacked before you solidly weld anything. Learn to tack so it minimizes warpage. Think of tacks as little springs.

I don't have anything against those Bessey or StrongHand clamps. I just wouldn't spend the money on them and would have a hard time finding a place to store them if I had some.

metalmagpie

Well friend
I used your turnbuckle idea today. What useful thing. I welded it to two small plates for clamp attaching.

Thank you:)

boslab
09-25-2014, 05:12 PM
I just use the magnetic ones for tacking, tack check tack etc, cheap and that's the key as all the carver clamps I had are decorating someone else's shop!
Mark

gzig5
09-25-2014, 07:36 PM
I just use the magnetic ones for tacking, tack check tack etc, cheap and that's the key as all the carver clamps I had are decorating someone else's shop!
Mark

I have a couple of the cheap ones from harbor fright and I've used them arc welding, but I think I read somewhere that the magnetic flux can mess with the arc on a TIG welder?

gundog
09-25-2014, 08:19 PM
I have some light duty ones nothing like the ones in the link I use them ocasionally I have 4 of them they will hold 1" or 2" square tube but nothing bigger. I just use them to fit and tack things together then measure and square using a tape across the corners. I think mine came from sears and are very old I picked them up at a yard sell they may have been use for picture frames.

Mike

boslab
09-26-2014, 12:07 AM
I have a couple of the cheap ones from harbor fright and I've used them arc welding, but I think I read somewhere that the magnetic flux can mess with the arc on a TIG welder?
You can apparently get arc blow due to magnetic effects stick welding, I've been told it can be fixed by wraping one of the leads round the work, I've never had it myself, I have enough trouble with draughts myself!
Mark
Still haven plugged my new tig in!, too scared to leave it in the shop!
Mark