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JoeLee
09-22-2014, 05:08 PM
I finally solved the problem of repacking shielded bearings. I can't remember how many times I've taken things apart only to find that the bearings were still good but just needed a little grease. If they are sealed then no problem, but if they are shielded then chances are the shield will be destroyed in the removal process and not reusable. I always saved my old bearings and removed the seals from them for future use on other bearings.
So today I thought I would try something different. I made a bearing packer. I grooved the top to accept an O-ring and made a plug for the bearing bore. I clamped everything together and gave it a few pumps. It worked. Now I guess I'll have to make a couple more for various size bearings.

JL..................

http://i911.photobucket.com/albums/ac317/JoeLee09/Bearing%20Packer/Image001_zps2e5e510a.jpg (http://s911.photobucket.com/user/JoeLee09/media/Bearing%20Packer/Image001_zps2e5e510a.jpg.html)
http://i911.photobucket.com/albums/ac317/JoeLee09/Bearing%20Packer/Image003_zpsbcee9b85.jpg (http://s911.photobucket.com/user/JoeLee09/media/Bearing%20Packer/Image003_zpsbcee9b85.jpg.html)
http://i911.photobucket.com/albums/ac317/JoeLee09/Bearing%20Packer/Image005_zps5c287c07.jpg (http://s911.photobucket.com/user/JoeLee09/media/Bearing%20Packer/Image005_zps5c287c07.jpg.html)

batt-man
09-22-2014, 05:18 PM
Kind of reminds me of a tool called the greaser used by rc helicopter enthusiasts

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/kevin.maxfield/greaser.htm

Batt....

gundog
09-22-2014, 05:59 PM
Nice job and it looks like it worked good too.

mattthemuppet
09-22-2014, 06:11 PM
now that's a cleaver idea

CarlByrns
09-22-2014, 06:14 PM
That's a neat bit of kit.

JRouche
09-22-2014, 08:58 PM
I like it. JR

atomarc
09-22-2014, 11:17 PM
It appears you are pumping until grease exits the outside shield. IMHO this means the total cavity of the bearing if full of grease and that's not proper. I would bet dollars to doughnuts those repacked bearings will run super hot and fling grease everywhere they can. New bearings are cheap and 'new', why not just install new ones?

Stuart

lakeside53
09-23-2014, 01:18 AM
Yes, nice idea, but you only want 25-40% fill unless its for low speed applications. Any way to measure what you insert?

digr
09-23-2014, 09:06 AM
Great idea! And I like the screw drivers, do you have the whole set? My son is collecting those.

JoeLee
09-23-2014, 05:06 PM
It appears you are pumping until grease exits the outside shield. IMHO this means the total cavity of the bearing if full of grease and that's not proper. I would bet dollars to doughnuts those repacked bearings will run super hot and fling grease everywhere they can. New bearings are cheap and 'new', why not just install new ones?

Stuart
Yes, your pretty much correct. I stop at the first sign of the grease coming out the top side. No real way to accurately measure. Any excess will just push out. They are just motor bearings so I'm not worried.
As far as the screwdrivers........ yes I have the complete set, had them for 20 + years.

JL................

Rosco-P
09-23-2014, 06:24 PM
Besides not adding a measured amount of new grease, the old dried grease is still in there. IMHO the only way to resurrect a dry or stiff shielded bearing would be to pry/pop a shield off, wash out all old grease with solvent, air or oven dry, add a measured amount of new lube, replace shield.

Rex
09-24-2014, 12:24 AM
I just use one of the two cone bearing packers from Lisle. Works on all sizes. Yours looks much nicer though

I clean them first, with hot Atf, solvents, ultrasonic

Once packed full, a short session with compressed air blows out the excess grease

gary hart
09-24-2014, 01:20 AM
Years ago, maybe 20 or more had a bunch of bearing used in a overhead trolley (bridge crane) that had bought at auction. The grease had dried out in most the bearings.
Used a method think had read in Fine Woodworking. Placed the bearing in a container of oil and applied vacuum released vacuum and repeated. The oil worked good on freeing up the dried out grease. Guess it was only good for about 20 years as bearings are starting to not roll as good as they used to be.

darryl
09-24-2014, 02:47 AM
I was kind of thinking along the same lines as Gary. Why not inject a light oil first, then spin the bearing a bit and let it sit for a day or three. Then inject grease until it comes out clean. Then inject some oil again to push some of the clean grease out. At this point let the bearing sit in a can or something to allow the oil to run out.

Personally though, I'd be more apt to carefully pull the seals or shields and soak the bearing in solvent. I use air to blow them out, but don't allow it to spin. You can still repack them with the bearing packer- just make sure to wipe out all the excess that you can before popping the seals or shields back on.

I do tend to agree- just replace the bearing, but chances are good you'd get an inferior product. I've had some new ones that weren't worth buying and didn't last. I've had old ones that I cleaned and re-greased that have decades on them again.

Rosco-P
09-24-2014, 09:55 AM
I just use one of the two cone bearing packers from Lisle. Works on all sizes. Yours looks much nicer though

I clean them first, with hot Atf, solvents, ultrasonic

Once packed full, a short session with compressed air blows out the excess grease

How would the cone type packers, meant for tapered roller bearings without outer or inner race work on a radial ball bearing? Maybe an image of your's in use would help.

JoeLee
09-24-2014, 08:52 PM
How would the cone type packers, meant for tapered roller bearings without outer or inner race work on a radial ball bearing? Maybe an image of your's in use would help.
I had one of those years ago when I was playing around with cars. It consisted of two saucer type plates with a bolt going through the center and a grease fitting. You would put your wheel bearing between the two plates tighten the nut down and pump the grease to it. It did work but it was messier than packing them by hand.

JL.............

JoeLee
09-24-2014, 08:55 PM
I was kind of thinking along the same lines as Gary. Why not inject a light oil first, then spin the bearing a bit and let it sit for a day or three. Then inject grease until it comes out clean. Then inject some oil again to push some of the clean grease out. At this point let the bearing sit in a can or something to allow the oil to run out.

Personally though, I'd be more apt to carefully pull the seals or shields and soak the bearing in solvent. I use air to blow them out, but don't allow it to spin. You can still repack them with the bearing packer- just make sure to wipe out all the excess that you can before popping the seals or shields back on.

I do tend to agree- just replace the bearing, but chances are good you'd get an inferior product. I've had some new ones that weren't worth buying and didn't last. I've had old ones that I cleaned and re-greased that have decades on them again.
I did pull some way oil through the bearing before I pushed the grease through. I set the bearing on the shop vac hose, plugged the bore with my finger and squirted some oil on the shield opening and the vacuum pulls the oil through.

JL...........

dp
09-24-2014, 11:38 PM
Hmmm - there's no reason the plug has to be on the side opposite the pressurized side. It could be held with a spring on the same side. Also - the injected material can be a solvent as easily as grease or oil. This configuration gives you the option of spinning the inner race while you are injecting what ever. That can be done with a motorized friction arbor on a battery powered drill or ???

This has a lot of potential.

JoeLee
09-25-2014, 09:23 AM
Hmmm - there's no reason the plug has to be on the side opposite the pressurized side. It could be held with a spring on the same side. Also - the injected material can be a solvent as easily as grease or oil. This configuration gives you the option of spinning the inner race while you are injecting what ever. That can be done with a motorized friction arbor on a battery powered drill or ???

This has a lot of potential.There is no reason that the plug has to be on the out side but it keeps the clamp from covering the inner race to shield opening so you can see when the grease starts to come out. This was a quick project and this was the first thought that came to mind.

JL..........