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View Full Version : 8 inch shear is nice, but is the blade supposed to do this?



danlb
10-08-2014, 05:40 PM
Howdy Folks,

I just bought an 8 inch sheet metal shear. It's guillotine style, a paper cutter on steroids. It does pretty well on 16 ga mild steel. On anything thicker, it balks. I find the lower blade is mounted at a slight angle. There is maybe 1/16 inch gap between the bottom of the blade and the casting. Should it be vertical?

Here's the shear.
http://i.imgur.com/D2suY9Zl.jpg

Here's a view of the right end of the picture above. Note the gap between the bottom of the blade and the casting. Is this by design? I don't want to "fix it" if it's supposed to be like that. (click for full size)
http://i.imgur.com/j31yryJl.jpg (http://imgur.com/j31yryJ.jpg)

Thanks

Dan

boslab
10-08-2014, 06:04 PM
Had a look at mine, it's tight to the body, however there is a shim, bout 25 thou behind the bottom jaw, it must have been reground, it is old mind, and somewhat new to me, 1/8 the plate is ok, thicker threatens to tear my bench to bits, there's not much in the way of blade clearance like a guillotine,
Mark

bollie7
10-08-2014, 07:15 PM
I'd say no, it shouldnt have the gap. There might be a bit of crud behind the blade. Try unbolting it and cleaning the recess where the blade sits. Check for burs etc. I'm no expert on shears but i have reconditioned a few over the years. Once you have the recess clean and the blade fitted correctly, lower the top blade and measure the gap (if any)between the two with feelers. Shim the bottom blade out by that amount (or just under that amount) and you should have a good cutting shear. Dont cut round bar (using the straight edges- use the hole) or hacksaw blades. That might sound obvious but its surprising how many people will try it, usually damaging the blade it the process.
hope this helps
bollie7

wierdscience
10-08-2014, 09:42 PM
Got the same basic shear from Enco,but it's the 12" model.No gap behind the blade on mine either.

darryl
10-08-2014, 10:22 PM
I bought a similar one- don't remember the brand, but it looks identical except for the paint. I did a complete re and re on it, removing paint etc from the body where the blades sit. Once I had the upper blade in contact with actual steel (with lube between) and the actuating mechanisms rebuilt to my own satisfaction, I shimmed the lower blade out until the two made contact over the full length- like a pair of scissors. It was a piece of crap before I started- now it cuts beautifully.

J Tiers
10-08-2014, 10:43 PM
The "gap" looks like a casting fault, and not an angled blade.

If the blade is parallel with the other blade, and they meet closely, you are good, don't mess with it. If you DO take it off, odds are that the rest of the blade is actually in contact with metal.

danlb
10-09-2014, 01:15 AM
The "gap" looks like a casting fault, and not an angled blade.

If the blade is parallel with the other blade, and they meet closely, you are good, don't mess with it. If you DO take it off, odds are that the rest of the blade is actually in contact with metal.

It turns out that it was not a casting fault. Just a little paint that puddled at the bottom of the shelf. The blade was pulled up tight against it but that was about all.

I was quite surprised to find that almost none of the bolts / nuts were tightened when I got it. I tightened those that were obvious, but the ones that had locknuts were a puzzle. Locknuts often mean that you don't want it too tight.

The nut on the main pivot for the blade was not tight at all. There is a touch more than 1/16 inch between the nut and the blade. I left it that way as it gives the blade a way to act like scissors. I might just be lucky that it works.


That leads to question #2. Should the pivot be tight or with some room for wiggle.

Many thanks for all the help.

Dan

danlb
10-09-2014, 11:21 PM
It works great now.


Thanks.


Dan

bollie7
10-12-2014, 05:22 AM
Thats good news.
all the best
bollie7