PDA

View Full Version : Tube cutting



plunger
10-15-2014, 01:18 PM
I have to cut 100 pieces of 304 stainless tube of one inch diameter. I need the ends to be perfectly clean and have been doing it on a bandsaw and then cleaning the ends with a face cut in the lathe. I tried my cut off saw and its much quicker but leaves a huge burr. Any suggestions on how to speed up my process? Can I maybe use a carbide blade or something?I am wondering if I could maybe stack a few in my bandsaw to do more at a time but am not sure how to clamp them down.

Black Forest
10-15-2014, 01:50 PM
How long is each piece before you cut them up and how long are the finished pieces?

plunger
10-15-2014, 02:11 PM
They need to be 110mm long. I have been cutting them 112mm long and facing both sides to get the finished size. I also have to cut 100 pieces of 6mm wide.

Black Forest
10-15-2014, 03:28 PM
They need to be 110mm long. I have been cutting them 112mm long and facing both sides to get the finished size. I also have to cut 100 pieces of 6mm wide.

How long is the raw material? Why couldn't you just part them off in the lathe?

plunger
10-15-2014, 05:05 PM
I tried this but I struggled with it.Maybe if I had a quality carbide parting tool but I only have hss parting tool and it gets buggered real quick

Paul Alciatore
10-15-2014, 05:57 PM
I recently made a batch of several dozen 1/4" diameter aluminum pins. I saw cut them to length. Then, prior to de-burring I used a milling cutter shrouded in a shop made, OD sized guide to flatten the ends of the saw cut pins. I used it in a hand held, battery powered drill and the work went quickly.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v55/EPAIII/Web%20Post%20Photos/Pin%20Finishing%20Tools/P21Red_zps977ab887.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/EPAIII/media/Web%20Post%20Photos/Pin%20Finishing%20Tools/P21Red_zps977ab887.jpg.html)

For your 1" tubing I would try a hand held sanding block or a file, with the tube mounted in the lathe.

Then I used one of these to de-burr the edges:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v55/EPAIII/Web%20Post%20Photos/Pin%20Finishing%20Tools/P13n16Red_zpse8eea002.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/EPAIII/media/Web%20Post%20Photos/Pin%20Finishing%20Tools/P13n16Red_zpse8eea002.jpg.html)

http://www.jbind.com/products/product-search-detail.aspx?SKU=RT11006

It works well for removing burrs. One side for ID and a quick flip to the other for the OD. Can be used manually or with lathe or drill press. I did my pins in the drill press, but for 1" tubing I would try the lathe. Hand held may be faster.

If you are really ambitious, you could use a block/cylinder of aluminum and bore a blind, 1" (+?), hole to match your OD. Then mount three cutters (HSS, carbide) in it at the proper positions and angles to clean up the saw cut edge. Mount that tool in the lathe and feed the stock into it by hand. If there is a chance of this being a repeat job, I would definitely do it this way.

Bob Fisher
10-15-2014, 06:13 PM
How good does the end need to be? I just did 350 pcs originally spec'd at 12.4 OD, 8.4 ID and 3.0 length. After a consultation with the customer, we ordered some metric tubing, 12 OD X 8.2 ID and parted them off on a cold saw. Cleaned the burr off on a sander, job done in a day. Sometimes it pays to see if the tolerances are really required for the end use. Bob.

vpt
10-15-2014, 06:42 PM
http://i21.geccdn.net/site/images/large/RGD_632-32895.jpg but turn the tube not the tool?

plunger
10-15-2014, 07:10 PM
The bottom gets a plug put on, the top I tig weld a handle on and needs to look well finished.I tried a tube cutter but it mauled the tube aesthetically

boslab
10-15-2014, 07:24 PM
In a past life as it were, making bits for aircraft, a block was machined, ie bored out to fit the tube, this block was then fixed to the table of the saw, the saw was then used to cut nearly all the way through the block and withdrawn.
In use the tube was slid through the block to a dead stop and the tube cut, no burrs, nice clean cut.
Some funny alloys worked even better when refrigerated first
Mark

iMisspell
10-15-2014, 07:28 PM
just a thought...

Make a lathe tool holder which will hold a hack-saw blade vertically.

Plunge in with the X axis with hacksaw blade, then change over to facing tool if finish not acceptable.
Its possible that you might just have to hit the part with a file and not even use a facing tool at all.

Should be much quicker then band saw even if you use the same "speeds and feeds" because cutting it on the lathe like this you are only moving/cutting the tubing thickness unlike with the band saw you are moving/cutting the tubings diameter.

You could set a stop with the tail-stock or use the tool post or what ever.

* It was asked before, how long is the tubing lengths when you start with them ?

Bob Fisher
10-15-2014, 07:30 PM
Wish I had thought of that , Boslab. Would have saved the sanding operation. I will, however, file it for future reference. Thanks, Bob"

RussZHC
10-15-2014, 08:38 PM
Spend to get a good parting tool, then something from these folks in the tailstock

http://www.severancetool.com/2764/index.html

"tube deburring"

it will still be a bit of a hassle because there are two ends but if the parting tool is set up well/correct it may come pretty close to being finished just parting...

Don't know that saw cut and debur with same tool (from Severance) will end up being any faster or neater than parting and debur.

IF the parts are long enough, you could set up the debur tool and feed the tube in by hand (would speed up compared to chuck and unchuck in the lathe unless you had some sort of air/hydraulic auto chuck set up).

To me, with that number, you want to get as close to automation as you can...saw cut, clamp tube, debur tool at each end at the same time idea (lever to actuate)

Black Forest
10-16-2014, 01:20 AM
Plunger buy a carbide insert parting blade and inserts. I think you are getting paid to do this job so invest in some tooling.

plunger
10-16-2014, 01:36 AM
The tubes start as six meter lengths. I can cut them to any size and cut them shorter to make handling easier. Black forest my parting tool just goes red hot on this stuff. Its real tuff material. Is there a vast difference between an insert type parting tool and hss? .I really cr*p myself while doing parting.

Black Forest
10-16-2014, 02:14 AM
The difference is like night and day! I part hardened hydraulic rod all the time with my Walter blade and inserts. 99% of all my round stock comes from hydraulic rod. It is free to me in any diameter I need. My industrial grade band saw has trouble cutting some of this rod but my parting blade goes through it like butter. My inserts are 3.1 mm wide single edged. I use 800 rpm and a .97mm/rev feed rate for most parting. I part stainless rod often with no problems at all. I have learned that when parting don't be bashful with the feed rate and be consistent. That is why I always use powerfeed when parting.

plunger
10-16-2014, 02:22 AM
But isnt your lathe built like a russian tank?I actually tried buying one yesterday but they never had a 2mm blade suitable for my lathe.I will also need to find a nice write up on how to make a block holder.

darryl
10-16-2014, 03:09 AM
I do all my touch-ups on a belt sander these days. I often use the one at work, which is a horizontal with a table and a guide at 90 degrees. Slide the work along the guide up to the belt, rotate the work- comes out clean and squared. I normally put an old belt on the machine when sanding metals. That does two things- saves the good belts for woodworking which is what the business is all about, and it leaves a less scratched finish on the metal.

My old belt sander at home is your basic piece of crap, but I use it all the time for deburring, etc.

Black Forest
10-16-2014, 03:21 AM
But isnt your lathe built like a russian tank?

Actually my lathe probably was built from recycled Russian tanks whereas it was built in Moscow! It is a Stanko brand.

I also have a small lathe and I have used the parting tool on it with the same success.

HAP
10-17-2014, 09:37 PM
[QUOTE=Paul Alciatore;942783]I recently made a batch of several dozen 1/4" diameter aluminum pins. I saw cut them to length. Then, prior to de-burring I used a milling cutter shrouded in a shop made, OD sized guide to flatten the ends of the saw cut pins. I used it in a hand held, battery powered drill and the work went quickly.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v55/EPAIII/Web%20Post%20Photos/Pin%20Finishing%20Tools/P21Red_zps977ab887.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/EPAIII/media/Web%20Post%20Photos/Pin%20Finishing%20Tools/P21Red_zps977ab887.jpg.html)

That shop-made tool is pure genius! I will me making one of those to square off SS tubing. One for each size needed.

Thanks for sharing that.

R,
HAP

boslab
10-17-2014, 10:29 PM
Suppose the facing cutter set up would work even better in the lathe tail stock, you might even fit a radial tool bit in there to add a chamfer like a box tool on a capstan
Who needs a cross slide!
Mark

Paul Alciatore
10-18-2014, 02:34 PM
Be sure to include the generous sized cross hole to allow the chips to easily fall out.

The mill size can be bigger than the work. I considered making several sizes with, perhaps 1/4", 1/2", 1" diameter end mills and having different inserts for each of them for a number of diameters of rod and tubing.



[QUOTE=Paul Alciatore;942783]I recently made a batch of several dozen 1/4" diameter aluminum pins. I saw cut them to length. Then, prior to de-burring I used a milling cutter shrouded in a shop made, OD sized guide to flatten the ends of the saw cut pins. I used it in a hand held, battery powered drill and the work went quickly.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v55/EPAIII/Web%20Post%20Photos/Pin%20Finishing%20Tools/P21Red_zps977ab887.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/EPAIII/media/Web%20Post%20Photos/Pin%20Finishing%20Tools/P21Red_zps977ab887.jpg.html)

That shop-made tool is pure genius! I will me making one of those to square off SS tubing. One for each size needed.

Thanks for sharing that.

R,
HAP

HAP
10-18-2014, 07:12 PM
I was planning to drill the cross hole all the way through both sides. Would there be any disadvantage to this. And yes, I was going to use a slightly larger cutter than the tube hole (center cutting of course).

Thanks again!
HAP

Black_Moons
10-19-2014, 04:18 AM
Get better deburring tools!

http://www.gfps.com/appgate/ecat/common_flow/100005/data/pool/7831/web560x400.jpg

http://www.caulfieldindustrial.com/product_images/32bda22a-2ec4-4965-9cac-b75e246468b0/19-011F_L.jpg

http://www.rabbittool.com/toolpages/images/tf2.jpg <- more for copper pipe and such but id think it would do stainless, Could copy the design with some carbide inserts or something. OD is pretty easy to deburr by spinning the pipe by hand against a wire wheel however (or belt sander or whatever have you)

I wouldn't try multiple in the bandsaw, iv seen way to many bandsaw blades wrecked when the blade spins round stock not clamped in decently. Setting a decent work stop in the bandsaw would however speed up cycle time. (Push comes to shove, position the bandsaw exactly X inches away from the wall)

HAP
10-19-2014, 07:32 AM
BM, those tools do nothing to ensure a square end. For SS and hard materials, you need a way to ensure the tube end is as square cut as possible for consistent quality flares.

R,
HAP

Paul Alciatore
10-19-2014, 11:43 AM
Yes, drill all the way through both sides. That is exactly what I did. You can blow most of the chips out quickly. In use, I did not see any disadvantage to this. I think drilling half way through would make clearing the chips a lot more difficult.

And yes, I used a center cutting end mill for facing all the way to the center of the ends of the pins.


I was planning to drill the cross hole all the way through both sides. Would there be any disadvantage to this. And yes, I was going to use a slightly larger cutter than the tube hole (center cutting of course).

Thanks again!
HAP

garyhlucas
10-19-2014, 05:35 PM
My Soco cold saw will cut all your pieces to within 0.001" length of each other working against a simple stop. There can be virtually no burr at all if I am careful. I bought my first one when I realized that most of the cost of the aluminum parts I was machining was simply squaring and machining to length. When I sent parts out for machining I'd make sure that they were on the low side of the tolerance I specified on the drawing. Otherwise they'd waste money charging me to machine the ends! I left them nothing to machine. Can't tell you how many times they'd call and tell me they were too short to machine! So don't machine the ends I'd tell them!