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View Full Version : Would you try to take an OD cut on this?



oxford
10-26-2014, 08:21 PM
I was wondering how much drama it would be to try and take a cut off of the OD on something like this. http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1276423&cp=2568443.10768931.1253350.1256370.1254884.125510 8.1260191

The center shaft should be 3/8". Or if anyone knows of a source for a small diameter auger, I am looking for one that fits in a piece of 1.5" pvc pipe. I have seen those bulb augers in 1.5" but even those may need a cut to fit inside of the pcv. I have thought of using a wood auger bit but don't know how bad it would chew up the pipe of effectively convey the material. I am looking to move shelled corn a short distance. I probably need a foot or under of actual auger, I can extend the shaft ends if need be. Thanks.

macona
10-26-2014, 08:39 PM
Take the od down on the actual auger part with a lathe? That would be a very bad idea.

Maybe take it outside and chuck it in a drill and grind the OD down with a belt sander.

rklopp
10-26-2014, 08:40 PM
According to the zoomed picture of the packaged auger you linked, it is only 1.25" diameter, so should easily fit inside 1.5" IPS-size PVC pipe, with room to spare.

oxford
10-26-2014, 08:45 PM
According to the zoomed picture of the packaged auger you linked, it is only 1.25" diameter, so should easily fit inside 1.5" IPS-size PVC pipe, with room to spare.

Sorry, I see that now. The most common of these are 1.75" diameter, I was thinking I linked a bigger diameter one. I don't know if the 1.25" would be to sloppy.

brian Rupnow
10-26-2014, 09:10 PM
You really don't want much slop. I used to work for a company that designed and built screw conveyors. They are great for powders and slurry with no large "lumps", but something like corn, where the kernels are random sizes, any slop can be an issue. The kernels will jam between the auger and the inside wall of the pipe and bind everything up solid. The most effective screw conveyor is one where there is very little space between the auger and the outer housing. If effectiveness is not a concern in terms of how many cubic feet per hour you can move, and the conveyor is horizontal or on a shallow incline, you can go for an "extra sloppy" fit and have a real lot of space between the auger and the housing. This will prevent it from jamming but it won't move a lot of material either, as the screw will tend to backfeed a bit.--Are you building a corn burning stove?

duckman
10-26-2014, 10:01 PM
What is the length that you need, and what is the exact diameter, I may be able to help.

oxford
10-26-2014, 10:09 PM
Brian, that is what I thought as well about the slop between the auger and the tube. No it is not for a corn stove, I already have one. This is for a storage system.

Duckman, the OD should be 1.5" but I don't know exactly what the id of a 1.5" PVC pipe is. Length would be no longer than 18" and I could probably make due with 8"(that is actual screw length) and anything in between.

JRouche
10-26-2014, 10:59 PM
Kinda funny. It sounds like an ambitious cut but in reality its not. You turn for the max OD. Choose speed, start cutting. It is an interrupted cut, we get those too right? They are NOT scary :) Id turn it if nothing else than to modify a tool to make a better tool :) JR

JRouche
10-26-2014, 11:19 PM
Solly. I meant to add. If you turn the screw the tips will be flat and sharp. De-burr or file the screw face or it will eat the PVC. A nice smooth rounded face for just the contact point. For 1.5" diameter it might be a 16th of an inch.

One more. They grey PVC for electric lines is some pretty tough plastic. Unlike the white PVC for water. The white plastic gets brittle (even underground). The grey?? Never brittle. JR

chipmaker4130
10-27-2014, 12:48 AM
I think the problem with turning the OD is the small diameter shaft. It would flex too much, and rigging some sort of follower-rest would be very difficult.

boslab
10-27-2014, 01:02 AM
You could use flexable auger pipe instead ?
Mark

Mtw fdu
10-27-2014, 01:17 AM
I used to make these type of augers when I use to make silos. This is what I think you should do.

The "flight" or the "curly" bit should have some very short welds every so often to the shaft. If you can get to them and cut them so the curly bit is free from the shaft. The next bit is the hardest. If you can stretch the curly bit a bit (which I doubt you could because it is already very short) that is the best way to make the OD smaller. When I made these they were a lot bigger and they would be a lot easier to stretch. Keep the first weld on the shaft and if you can use a hydraulic press to stretch it. I hope this helps.

Just a question thought....how fast are you going to have the shaft turning? It would be better at a slow speed. I ask this because you said you don't want any "slop" in the pvc tube. At a slow speed this should be ok.

When I use to make silos we had all the necessary equipment to do each job which made it a lot easier to do.

Mtw fdu.

goodscrap
10-27-2014, 03:54 AM
Would it not make sense to buy the auger, and take it to a metal suppliers and find the right size CDS tube that it will go into? Or does it need to be a plastic tube?

Brian

Black Forest
10-27-2014, 05:40 AM
If it was me I would make the tube the auger goes into fit the auger. If you only need a minimum of 8 inches that would not be so difficult to bore to correct inside diameter. If that is not possible then I would build my own auger. It is not that difficult to make an auger especially one that light duty.

NiftyNev
10-27-2014, 06:12 AM
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/pvc-cpvc-pipes-dimensions-d_795.html Here's a silly suggestion. If the ID is 1.61" as stated in above link why not just twist a length of 1.5" flat into an auger shape and weld a short shaft to each end?

boslab
10-27-2014, 06:44 AM
Out of professional curiosity as it were, and wishing to make an auger flight as it were, I realise that each turn starts flat, and I'm assuming elliptical , is there a set way to mark them out? Something I've never tried but looks like it may be useful to know.
Mark

JoeLee
10-27-2014, 08:39 AM
I would grind it, but wouldn't attempt to turn it with out making some sort of follower rest for it.

JL.............

Rosco-P
10-27-2014, 09:15 AM
You want a materials auger, but I can't find a supplier for one in that small of a diameter. As already suggested, I'd take a shot at welding one up from a strip of steel.

brian Rupnow
10-27-2014, 09:35 AM
Rosco--I made a similar screw conveyor using a woodworkers auger. they are very smooth with a nice fillet radius where the "flight" meets the shaft. They would be far less apt to damage the product being conveyed than a regular welded flight auger.---Brian

Rosco-P
10-27-2014, 09:57 AM
Hate to.... but...the OP wants to move corn up through a short length of 1.50" sched 40 PVC pipe. Suppose that if you could find an abused, rusty 1" or 1.5 woodworker or ships auger that would work fine. Buying a new auger to re-purpose probably would not be cheap. If it's for something like a corn stove, kernal damage probably doesn't matter.

brian Rupnow
10-27-2014, 10:22 AM
Rosco--I don't remember the economics of the situation being discussed anywhere. You are right though--a new woodworking auger does cost a lot. However, if the o.p. is anything like I am, he may know where there is a scrap one laying around. They were something left over from an earlier time. I had one that came down through the family from my grandfather. All I was trying to point out though, was that a woodworkers auger does have a very smooth surface, unlike the welded flight augers.

Rosco-P
10-27-2014, 12:16 PM
I wasn't disagreeing with your suggestion. I have some old woodworking augers sitting around, don't use them, too good to toss, haven't found an alternative use or the right person to give to. Just sayin', on this board, economics of the solution almost always plays a significant role.

The solution doesn't have to be an auger to move the kernals, it could be a spiral of aluminum or copper tubing (maybe PEX?), with spokes welded to it to attach it to the central driven shaft.

Black Forest
10-27-2014, 01:26 PM
I Googled woodworkers auger and braces and auger bits are what came up. Is that what you two old farts are talking about? What is a woodworkers auger? I am too young to know!:cool:

Rosco-P
10-27-2014, 02:16 PM
Woodworker's auger, auger bit: http://www.ebay.com/itm/GREENLEE-1-1-8-WOOD-CORING-AUGER-BIT-/301362499412?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item462a9acf54

Black Forest
10-27-2014, 03:03 PM
Woodworker's auger, auger bit: http://www.ebay.com/itm/GREENLEE-1-1-8-WOOD-CORING-AUGER-BIT-/301362499412?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item462a9acf54

Danke!

Duffy
10-27-2014, 07:02 PM
The "woodworker's auger" you are thinking of was used in log building and heavy timber construction. It had an "eye" on the working end and accepted a fairly heavy wooden handle. The flight was usually double, and about a foot long, the whole unit being about two feet long. The ones I was familiar with were called Scotch eye augers because of the handle design. They were mostly equipped with a screw point, but some had a flat end and required a starting hole. The one that I have is 1.25" diameter with a 7" long flight and is 19" overall.

brian Rupnow
10-27-2014, 08:36 PM
When my father passed away, I inherited a brace and bit, which was basically a manual woodworkers hole boring device. I also inherited a bunch of the woodworking spiral bits that went with it. About 20 years ago I was asked to develop some automation for a company that was making computer laptop batteries. The process consisted of two different sheets of foil, one being copper, the other being--(I'm not sure, it looked like tinfoil)-- These two foils were fed off rolls and went around a pair of heated rollers which rolled inward towards each other with a small gap between them, and a mixture of heated powder (which must have been the "electrolyte") was poured between the two pieces of foil, which were then edge sealed to make up the batteries. They had a bunch of kids sprinkling the powder by hand into the two main rollers, which rolled in towards each other. --a VERY dangerous operation!!!---Anyways, blah blah blah--I used the 1" diameter spiral woodworking bit inside a 1" i.d. copper pipe to convey the hot powder from it's receptacle into a "distribution head" which moved back and forth on a pair of linear bearings to distribute the powder. It worked great as a preliminary "proof of concept" and I got the order. It was a very interesting project.

ulav8r
10-27-2014, 10:47 PM
The size asked for is about the size used in automated feeders used in broiler house. When I was raising chickens we had several lengths laying around. We also had some that was larger that moved feed from the silos into the houses. The auger was a strip roughly 1/8 thick x 7/16 wide, it looks somewhat like a die spring with about 1 1/2 coils per inch.

Black_Moons
10-28-2014, 04:58 AM
New style of auger pump is to fuse the auger with the tube itself, rotate the whole mess on small bearings that support the tube by races on the OD of the tube.

Result is you can weld (glue, whatever) the auger to the tube to have perfect seal, pretty much will pump anything that can fit into it from thin liquids to large lumps, with little damage to fragile things.

pgmrdan
10-28-2014, 02:15 PM
Fence guy anchors are less than $10 a piece, come in several sizes, and can be purchases at Home Depot and farm supply stores but I'm not sure they have nearly enough threaded length for what you want. You might look though.

http://cdn.monolithic.org/vault/img/2011/11/01/4eb05f87c29e06529100001f/medium_511.jpg

I don't know where to get these. You might call around.

http://www.earthcontactproducts.com/images/Configurations_of_Anchors.png

Jon Heron
10-28-2014, 02:47 PM
When I made the boiler for my biodiesel processor I wanted an auger to force the fluid in a circular movement around the 6" flue so as to get the most resident/contact time with the heat of the flue. I tried figuring out mathematically how to cut washer plates with the right sized hole in the middle so that when I stretched out the washers to make the auger they would still fit nicely around the flue pipe as well as have a tight fit in the 12" water jacket going over the outside..
As it turns out I am too dumb to figure out that kind of math so instead I just cut the Id of the washers to 6", OD to 12" and tried them, it worked perfect. So really the ID does not change all that much when you bend the washers out.
You can see in the pics that I didnt bend the end of the washers inline together, cause it really didn't mater in this application, for the small auger your talking about though you could bend and weld them all up nice before inserting and welding the shaft in place, at least that what I am assuming!
Not sure if that helps with you making a custom auger or not but I thought I would share my experience just the same :)
Cheers,
Jon
http://biodieselpictures.com/files/dsc01132_167.jpg
Here is the fit with the outer water jacket
http://biodieselpictures.com/files/dsc01135_144.jpg
http://biodieselpictures.com/files/dsc01133_537.jpg

oxford
10-30-2014, 09:53 PM
Thanks for the replies. I was worried about taking a cut due to the small center shaft not the interrupted cut. I didn't really think about grinding it. I may go to the flea market this weekend so I will be on the lookout for a woodworkers auger bit. I may also attempt to bend up some washers and see how it goes.