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View Full Version : Bolts, with zerks inside them, to lube while you screw?



vpt
01-28-2015, 07:21 PM
Made up these bolts for a customer last night/today. A tiny bit different than the original to fix the problem of them breaking.

http://i.imgur.com/a6uKwOU.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/c8aMrsy.jpg

Mike Burdick
01-28-2015, 08:14 PM
On old farm and ranch equipment that had bolts that needed to be removed often we did something similar, but instead of installing zerks, we just drilled a 1/16" hole in the nut or bolt so a needle nose grease gun adapter could be used. No specials equipment was needed to make these!

vpt
01-29-2015, 08:32 AM
There is something also similar used on some trailers for the spring bushings. I also installed zerks in the bearing caps on my atlas lathe so instead of packing grease in and "twisting the cap to lube" I just hit it with the gun.

These bolts are made for those track attachment things that go on 4 wheelers and side by side toys in place of the wheels. The originals had the 1/4" hole for the zerk drilled way to deep (to the threaded portion of the bolt) so there was only .050" of material left on the threaded section of the bolt.

gunsmither
01-29-2015, 02:28 PM
Nice job Andy! Thanks for sharing this idea.

Paul Alciatore
01-29-2015, 03:58 PM
What WILL they think of next?

Fasttrack
01-29-2015, 05:30 PM
Pretty common in the agricultural sector. Some are recessed like VPT's but many COTS versions are proud of the bolt head and often get broken off as VPT mentioned.

See here for the bad kind: http://www.carid.com/daystar/greaseable-bolt-kit-0-5-13-x-4-mpn-ku02004bk.html?gclid=CJma7t2gusMCFUE0aQodEb4Aow

sasquatch
01-29-2015, 06:26 PM
Nice work Andy!!

JoeLee
01-29-2015, 08:20 PM
How long did it take you to make all those???

JL.............

vpt
01-29-2015, 08:42 PM
How long did it take you to make all those???

JL.............



I spent an entire day making them but with a long lunch and going to pick up the material and whatnots in there as well. The longest part was hogging off the material on the threaded end. It was 5 passes at .050 (.100" over all material removed) with a final "creep up to measurement" pass on the ol atlas for each bolt. I cheated and used a die under power on the lathe to cut the threads though so that made up time.

JoeLee
01-29-2015, 09:58 PM
I was going to ask how you cut the threads. It would have taken another afternoon to single point them being careful to stop before the shoulder.
I made some T-bolts that way.

JL............

vpt
01-30-2015, 08:30 AM
The thought of single pointing the threads did cross my mind but there was a couple deciding factors for me. The bolt is already weak from having a hole inside and threaded od, having a tool clearance ring at the head of the bolt would have made it that much weaker, second it would have taken lots more time, third without an auto carriage stop threading up to the shoulder over and over again didn't sound like all that much fun to me.

The die set I use are adjustable so I was able to dial in a perfect fit on the first bolt and then just turn turn turn. I did have to readjust about half way threw. I locked the die in the tool post and did set up the lathe to run 13tpi and used the power feed for the die so it is almost like I single pointed the threads but just in one pass. :D

JoeLee
01-30-2015, 08:47 AM
I know just what you mean........... one thought, you could have drilled the hole after threading so not to loose support but the tool clearance groove may have created a weak point. It's next to impossible to stop and back the tool out when coming up to a shoulder. I did on my T-bolts but the threads stopped .750 from the shoulder so I had a little room for error.

JL....................