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View Full Version : How to Remove Name Plate Rivets?



lost_cause
02-13-2015, 09:48 PM
When I took my South Bend lathe apart I was able to remove all of the rivets holding the name plates and gear change plates from behind with a punch because the holes went completely through the castings. Now I'm pulling the Millrite apart and thinking about painting it, but the holes for the rivets that hold the name plates on are not through holes. Is there another non-destructive way to remove those rivets? if not, is there a source to buy new rivets so that I can destructively remove the old rivets?

duckman
02-13-2015, 10:06 PM
I use a very sharp about 60 chisel just barely get it under the edge of the rivet, now just tap it with a small hammer if it moves go to the other side and do the same it come up a little (they actually rotate going in) now I have a set of small vise grips that are only used for rivets, PM me I have some just need to know the size, dia., and length .

Mike Burdick
02-13-2015, 10:33 PM
lost_cause,

They are called "drive screws" and most fastener supply stores carry them. They usually come in boxes of 100. If you only need a few, try a local electric motor repair shop and they might sell you some.

lakeside53
02-13-2015, 10:45 PM
Tap them firmly with small hammer to "loosen then". then a SHARP pair of side cutters - just grab the rivet vertically, and the rotate. Works most of the time...

JoeLee
02-13-2015, 10:57 PM
You got lucky with the lathe having the holes drilled through. Not so lucky with the mill. I've had it both ways too.
What I've done in the case where there was no through hole was to grip the head of the drive screw with a small long nose vise grip and gently try to unscrew it, they are hardened !!! I would always protect the name plate from gashes from the vise grips by placing a piece of .005 shim stock over it. I would punch out a hole in the shim stock big enough for the head of the drive screw to go through and tape the shim stock in place.
Like Duckman said use a chisel or flat drive pin and tap the the head of the screw from side to side to help loosen it up.
Some drive screws may have slightly smaller heads and you won't be able to grab the side of them with the vise grips so what I've done in that situation is use my dremel and a 1" cut off wheel and grind the sides down a touch so you have a square head to grab on to. It's tedious work.

JL................

legendboy
02-13-2015, 11:29 PM
Tap them firmly with small hammer to "loosen then". then a SHARP par of side cutters - just grab the rivet vertically, and the rotate. Works most of the time...

I sharpened the flat side of a pair of small side cutters to get the drive screws out of my standard modern lathe. Still ended up having to drill a few new holes

metalmagpie
02-14-2015, 01:21 AM
many times when you think the drive screws are installed in blind holes and you go through major changes to get them out and then you clean the casting and find out -- guess what? the holes DID go through they were just plugged up with black goop and you couldn't see them.

Really Try To Find Holes

big job
02-14-2015, 04:50 AM
I cut carefully cut slits and simply unscrewed them out and reused them.

Arcane
02-14-2015, 08:26 AM
I use a Carter Carburetor T-109-43 rivet extractor tool. http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Carter_tools_files/image032.jpg

Rosco-P
02-14-2015, 08:45 AM
I use a Carter Carburetor T-109-43 rivet extractor tool.

A little pricy: The Carburetor Shop LLC. 204 East 15 th Street. Eldon, Missouri 65026 . ... T-109-43 Rivet extractor (small) $25.00.

Carm
02-14-2015, 12:10 PM
End cutting pliers. Grind the end to get rid of most of the bevel, you can then get very close to the surface. If they don't come out with a CCwise twist, a little tap. Still won't come out, slide cardboard or shimstock under the end so you don't mar the job and lever the pliers sideways, jaw as fulcrum.

Rosco-P
02-14-2015, 12:13 PM
I cut carefully cut slits and simply unscrewed them out and reused them.

+1 to big jobs idea.

shoeboxpaul
02-14-2015, 12:45 PM
I found this from Spaenaur in Ontario:

http://www.spaenaur.com/pdf/sectionB/B122.pdf

If loose when you reinstall, you can usually tighten them by rotating to a new position. McMaster-Carr also sells these.

JohnMartin
02-14-2015, 12:58 PM
Tap from side to side with a cold chisel to loosen them, then a putty knife or similar under the nameplate will usually get them to lift out. The screws are usually pretty hard. If you break one with the cold chisel the best thing is to move the nameplate slightly and drill all new holes. Make them through holes, so that if you or someone else down the road has to remove the plate again they'll have an easy time of it.

I've never had much luck trying to unscrew them unless they were already loose. The threads are not really threads - they are closer to straight, like splines.

Fastenal carries tem, although they won't have them in stock locally. They will sell them in less than full box quantities, and they are generally in the range of 5 to 15 cents a piece.

John

JoeLee
02-14-2015, 03:47 PM
I use a Carter Carburetor T-109-43 rivet extractor tool. http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Carter_tools_files/image032.jpg Using a tool like this can mess up the name plate.

JL...............

darryl
02-14-2015, 05:05 PM
Carm mentioned the end cutting pliers- some call them nippers, I think they had applications in ceramic tile shaping, etc. With a pair of those, grind a bevel on the face at one side- you'll see a point where you've removed all the bevel on the cutting edges, then perhaps gone past a bit- gives you a 'sweet spot' to grip under the drive screw, plus you have a fulcrum point on the face to rock the tool to get the drive screw started out. If you polish the face where you ground it away, you'll have a spot to sort of rotate it on- look at a drive screw and see which direction it would have to turn to come out. If you don't turn it as you wedge on it, it's harder to get it to move.

I like the shim idea to protect the surface.

gary hart
02-14-2015, 08:04 PM
For steel drive rivets.
Drill a hole in a metal strip that is slightly smaller then rivet head.
Lay hole tight on top of rivet heat and give a tack weld.
Unscrew rivet.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/ghart3/DriveRivetweld.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/ghart3/driverivetweld2.jpg

Arcane
02-14-2015, 08:47 PM
A little pricy: The Carburetor Shop LLC. 204 East 15 th Street. Eldon, Missouri 65026 . ... T-109-43 Rivet extractor (small) $25.00.

I bought a bunch for under a dollar each and gifted a few friends with some.


Using a tool like this can mess up the name plate.

JL...............

Yeah, that's definitely a possibility without using a protective shim.

Mike Burdick
02-15-2015, 02:52 AM
For steel drive rivets.
Drill a hole in a metal strip that is slightly smaller then rivet head.
Lay hole tight on top of rivet heat and give a tack weld.
Unscrew rivet.

Gary,

That's very clever!:)

lost_cause
02-15-2015, 12:31 PM
Tap from side to side with a cold chisel to loosen them, then a putty knife or similar under the nameplate will usually get them to lift out. The screws are usually pretty hard. If you break one with the cold chisel the best thing is to move the nameplate slightly and drill all new holes. Make them through holes, so that if you or someone else down the road has to remove the plate again they'll have an easy time of it.

I've never had much luck trying to unscrew them unless they were already loose. The threads are not really threads - they are closer to straight, like splines.

Fastenal carries tem, although they won't have them in stock locally. They will sell them in less than full box quantities, and they are generally in the range of 5 to 15 cents a piece.

John

yup, once i found out what they were called it wasn't too bad to find them. i tend to use fastenal as my go-to source when looking for fasteners. i know many people don't like them, but they have a lot of local presence here even though their in-store inventory isn't always the best. i actually would choose kl jack first because prices are often almost half of fastenal, but they don't have as broad of an inventory. now that i know i can replace them i won't worry too much about my removal technique, except so that i don't damage the plates behind them.

things like this are why i like printed catalogs. i know what i need exists but i don't know what it's called so i can't search for it easily. i also found out what "well nuts" were from a previous post here. i've needed some to replace the hardened ones holding the nose on one of my old cars but i never knew what they were called. there's a lot of obscure hardware out there that i've never heard of. when dealing with me the hardware stores need to have picture menus like mcdonalds.

legendboy
02-15-2015, 01:24 PM
For steel drive rivets.
Drill a hole in a metal strip that is slightly smaller then rivet head.
Lay hole tight on top of rivet heat and give a tack weld.
Unscrew rivet.






that is a great idea