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View Full Version : Need to make some radiused pip connectors



jmarkwolf
02-24-2015, 03:24 PM
Need to make several pipe connectors like the pic attached.

Plan is to hold the aluminum rod stock horizontal in my Kurt vise with some small v-blocks and sticking out the side a little, then radiusing with my Bridgeport. What is the proper tool for making the 1/2" radius?

Is there an overall different/better approach?

http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q730/jmarkwolf/Tube_connector_zps7f8549f5.jpg

Carm
02-24-2015, 03:49 PM
Depending on the shank and how many, side bore in chuck soft jaws.

Plunge any radial tool (drill), sweep or replunge with an end mill. Deburr.

What does the other side require, and dimensions?

Lew Hartswick
02-24-2015, 05:53 PM
Need to make several pipe connectors like the pic attached.

Plan is to hold the aluminum rod stock horizontal in my Kurt vise with some small v-blocks and sticking out the side a little, then radiusing with my Bridgeport. What is the proper tool for making the 1/2" radius?

Is there an overall different/better approach?

http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q730/jmarkwolf/Tube_connector_zps7f8549f5.jpg
A 1" diameter mill cutter.
...lew...

Stepside
02-24-2015, 05:54 PM
I would turn the small diameter and then hold in a collet block if there is any quantity. If only a couple the V-blocks would work.

For a 1/2 inch radius I would use an annular cutter. Annular cutters do not mind doing a partial diameter. A drill bit would not work but a 1 inch diameter end mill would work.

You could do it with a boring head if you set the head to the final diameter and then moved in a little and take a cut. Repeat until the final depth is reached.

If you don't have the right collets then build a fixture.

Paul Alciatore
02-24-2015, 07:18 PM
With aluminum I would be a bit afraid of creating flats on the stem holding it in Vee blocks. A collet or a custom pair of half round holders would be a lot better. But perhaps they don't matter.

Arcane
02-24-2015, 07:42 PM
I'm not singling out jmarkwolf or denigrating him in any way, shape, or form but I find his post is typical of many posts I see asking for help without fully informing people of what equipment and tooling they have at their disposal or even their budget to buy tooling. "Several" is often given as a number but that could five or six or fifty or sixty (or more) depending on what it means to the individual and this factors into the answer people will give.

jmarkwolf
02-24-2015, 09:47 PM
I'm not singling out jmarkwolf or denigrating him in any way, shape, or form but I find his post is typical of many posts I see asking for help without fully informing people of what equipment and tooling they have at their disposal or even their budget to buy tooling. "Several" is often given as a number but that could five or six or fifty or sixty (or more) depending on what it means to the individual and this factors into the answer people will give.

I can't speak for everybody, but I try to keep such inquiries short and to the point, but at the same time I try to provide adequate data, so as not to bore the reader with "too much information".

But since you asked, I need to make about a dozen variants of this part.

I have a Series 1 J head Bridgeport and a Kurt D-688, along with various v-blocks and miscellaneous tooling. I don't think I have an end mill that big, turns out I would need a 1.25in end mill as the pipe's a little bigger than I thought. I do have a spinner index and some collets, but don't think I have any collets big enough to hold that stock.

Looks like I'll have to make a run to the tool store!

Stepside
02-24-2015, 10:18 PM
Take two matching blocks of Aluminum and sandwich a piece of shim stock (Some thin sheet material, maybe three thicknesses of beer can) between them and bore down the centerline. This will give you the clamping blocks. If you miss the center a bit, file off the offending edges.

Now all you need is a annular cutter of the right diameter and length. (these give a nice round hole or part hole but they aren't cheap) If you have a boring head, set the diameter by sweeping the end of a piece of the stock the "birdmouth" needs to fit. Then make a series of boring cuts until you reach the optimum depth.

TGTool
02-24-2015, 10:53 PM
And you can set the boring head tool diameter or even a flycutter fairly easily. Set the spindle centerline to the edge of the vise using a centerfinder or your preferred method. Back off 1/2" away from the vise. Mount the boring head or flycutter and crank or slide the cutter out until it touches the vise. It will now be set to cut the 1/2" R. or whatever size you need.

LKeithR
02-24-2015, 11:06 PM
Buy a set of 5C collet blocks and the appropriate sized collet and you're ready to go. Either an annular cutter or end mill to cut the radius...

Stepside
02-25-2015, 08:34 AM
If we knew the diameter of the part, then we would know if a collet would work. I agree that a set of 5C collet blocks are handy, My preference is for the collets with the internal threads that allow the use of collet stops as well.

Some collet block sets come with a lever closer. These are quicker to use as the block stays in the vise. it would take a bit of work to use both the lever and the stops.

If the part is larger than the available collet, then the "Split Block" is the best choice. With long parts saw the bored blocks in two and use one set at each end of the vise jaws. Long or short parts I would have parallels supporting the blocks.

Carm
02-25-2015, 11:55 AM
I can't speak for everybody, but I try to keep such inquiries short and to the point, but at the same time I try to provide adequate data, so as not to bore the reader with "too much information". (snip)


You don't need to buy collets. You need some alooneyum bar to make soft jaws for the Kurt.

You did not state tol's or dimn's on the other side.

Take the fixed side soft jaw and mill a v groove, or a slot that has chamfered edges, the length.
If you feel it necessary, do the same with the other jaw. (I don't)

After mounting your soft jaws, bore a hole(s) on top of the jaws, the stock OD centered between the jaws as Stepside said.

Pull the barstock through the longways Vee to a length equal to two parts +/- an X factor. Get an annular as recommended and plunge. If the cutter is bigger OD than stock, it will part.

The next parts will have cope at each end. Put them in the top hole of the soft jaws and part with a saw. If you have many to make, make as many top holes as the vise can accommodate.

Measure the slugs from the annular cutter. If they are close enough to size, center over the top jaw holes and create the stem.
Annulars won't cut a flat seat. If that is a problem (or perhaps the slug OD won't work) either use a boring head to create the shank or make a tool that has a clearance core you can put a bit of HSS or even O-1 in to that is tweakable (a reverse fly cutter).

If there are a bunch to make, Jancy (one brand of annular) used to do custom grinds for about $20, plus the cutter cost. I have no idea how to spec the internal grind since that depends on a couple things, but I see one cutter doing a lot of the job.

jmarkwolf
02-25-2015, 03:32 PM
Wow, thanks for all the ideas everbody.

The OD of this part needs to match the OD of 1" electrical conduit, the ID of the part needs to match the ID of the same. Haven't purchased the conduit yet so I don't what the actual dimensions are. The radius of the part is 1.25" to match the diameter of the pipe that my scaffold is made from.

I'm making "curtain rods" to hang relatively heavy welding blankets around 3 of the four sides of a scaffold, to form a sort of welding booth. The platform will be adjusted all the way to the top, which will almost clear my head when standing, will certainly clear when seated.

Thought about simply flattening the conduit and bolting it up directly to the scaffold uprights, but I don't have the means of flattening conduit cleanly, and the pipe connectors would be more fun to make anyway.

Black Forest
02-25-2015, 04:13 PM
Wow, thanks for all the ideas everbody.

The OD of this part needs to match the OD of 1" electrical conduit, the ID of the part needs to match the ID of the same. Haven't purchased the conduit yet so I don't what the actual dimensions are. The radius of the part is 1.25" to match the diameter of the pipe that my scaffold is made from.

I'm making "curtain rods" to hang relatively heavy welding blankets around 3 of the four sides of a scaffold, to form a sort of welding booth. The platform will be adjusted all the way to the top, which will almost clear my head when standing, will certainly clear when seated.

Thought about simply flattening the conduit and bolting it up directly to the scaffold uprights, but I don't have the means of flattening conduit cleanly, and the pipe connectors would be more fun to make anyway.

There are two very easy solutions. The first and best in my opinion is a BFH. The second is to stick the pipe in a vise and squeeze it flat. For what you are going to use these things for go the BFH route!

JCHannum
02-25-2015, 04:23 PM
Hold a length of aluminum in the vise and cut the fishmouth with a flycutter or boring head set at desired diameter. Do this on each end of the piece. If the OD necessitatis, chuck the piece up and redice the OD. Cut the pieces to length, chuck up the fishmouthed end and turn to the shoulder.

Carm
02-25-2015, 04:44 PM
Well then. Torch out of whatever plate you have, 1/4. 3/8, 1/2 some ears that have the scaffold pipe radius and enough flat to weld EMT or whatever your curtain rod is. Make the pipe a couple CH's longer than the span minus 1 Diameter. Leave some slag and hand wobbles on the ears, you can spring the curtain rods into position.