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frankie
06-23-2015, 08:34 PM
What size motor does a 8 inch shaper need?

krankie frankie

sarge41
06-23-2015, 09:38 PM
krankie: Not sure that they make them that small. maybe just a strong arm. Seriously, I have a 12"shaper and I took the 3 phase motor off and put a 1/2hp - 120 volt-single phase motor on and it works fine. You are probably going to ask me what size the 3 phase motor was and I don't remember. It is on a shelf in the shop and I'm in the house for the evening. Hope this helps.

Sarge

duckman
06-23-2015, 09:54 PM
My 7" Logan has a 1/2 HP 110 volt.

Mike Burdick
06-23-2015, 09:57 PM
I have a 7" South Bend Shaper and it also has a 1/2 HP motor.

justanengineer
06-23-2015, 10:01 PM
The Atlas' are supposed to have a 1/3 hp, mine runs fine on 1/4 hp.

frankie
06-23-2015, 10:22 PM
Thanks guys there seems to be agreement that they do not need a lot of power. I got a line on one without a motor, and I do believe I have a 1/2 horse laying around some where.

krankie frankie

_Paul_
06-24-2015, 12:22 AM
My 8" Boxford has a 1/2 HP.

Paul

thaiguzzi
06-24-2015, 05:10 AM
My 8" Boxford has a 1/2 HP.

Paul

What he said.
Brand new single phase 220V Mitsubishi.

oldtiffie
06-24-2015, 07:26 AM
A lot depends on the highest stroking speed and stroke, material, tooling and required cross feeds as well as well.

My 11" shaper has three speeds/pulley pairs which work very well. It has a three-speed1 HP 230v 50Hz motor (variable from normal speed and 1/3 of it) which makes it very versatile.

But do check inside the shaper casting and see that the forward stroke is used for cutting (and is slowest) and that the return stroke is faster and is the stroke that the cross-feed is driven by.

The shaper (Whitworth) linkage and drive is shown here in diagrammatic form:

https://www.google.com.au/search?q=whitworth+shaper+quick+return+mechanism&rls=com.microsoft:en-AU:IE-SearchBox&rlz=1I7IRFC_enAU360&biw=1536&bih=710&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=rpOKVcXIK8HWmAWXtIOgDw&ved=0CCkQsAQ

https://www.google.com.au/search?q=google&rls=com.microsoft:en-AU:IE-SearchBox&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&sourceid=ie7&rlz=1I7IRFC_enAU360&gfe_rd=cr&ei=nJOKVcbKBabu8we9jLyIAw&gws_rd=ssl#q=whitworth+shaper+quick+return+mechani sm

sasquatch
06-24-2015, 08:50 PM
7 inch Porter Cable here, (pre 1941,) and it has a 1/2 hp, which is also recommended in the literature.

randyjaco
06-24-2015, 08:55 PM
My 12" Vernon has a 1hp 3 phase 220VAC
Randy

sarge41
06-25-2015, 08:20 PM
Frankie: If that info that old tiffie said in post #(9) is confusing, it simply means that if the forward stroke (cutting stroke) is the fastest, then your motor is running backwards.

sarge

oldtiffie
06-25-2015, 09:26 PM
That's true.

But it also means that the cross feed stroke should be on the back stroke or else the cut edge will not be parallel to the ram and its stroke.

sarge41
06-26-2015, 11:51 AM
That's true.

But it also means that the cross feed stroke should be on the back stroke or else the cut edge will not be parallel to the ram and its stroke.

That's true to a point. On many shapers, the feed stroke selection was optional, and if it was set to feed on the cut stroke and if there was a bit of room on the beginning of the stroke, the feed movement would be finished before the cut actually started.

Sarge

dp
06-26-2015, 01:15 PM
When I got my Atlas shaper the feed was wrongly set to move the table on the cut. It is an easy error to make with that design. The ratchet is reversible but that doesn't change the fact that the thing had been assembled wrong (not done per the manual). It has the original motor which of course turns the correct direction.

There is a video on youtube that shows a very large shaper that is running backward. I'll see if I can find that link. BRB...

Nope - can't locate it. But here's ol' Tubalcain with a mockup of the reversed motor direction problem:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jx5nOn0tf_k

Brian H.
06-26-2015, 01:29 PM
I have also seen references in one or more texts - which I cannot now find - that show running the shaper backwards intentionally when using a poke bar for internal work. In that case, the downfeed is made at the far end of the cut, and the shaper pulls the bar to cut instead of pushing it. This drastically reduces the tendency to chatter, as the tool will now spring away from the cut. The bar being in tension rather than compression also helps. Naturally, this technique requires locking the clapper; my 6" Ammco (1/3hp, I believe) has a setscrew on the side of the clapper box for that purpose.

-Brian