Question about Bridgeport quill travel

[hephaestus]

Not that I need it, but I was wondering if you
removed the adjustable stop, can you get more
travel from the quill ?

[Doc Nickel]

Yes, but it's strongly not recommended. Actually, if you take the stop off and the ring off the quill, the quill can slide right out the casting.

And that's the problem- not only do you risk running off the gear rack on the quill (and having the spring-loaded handle go for a spin and probably break a knuckle or two) but you start running out of contact between the quill and the head casting. Milling- or anything that puts a side thrust on the quill- is right out, and even just drilling is iffy, since the gear rack is what keeps the whole mess from rotating.Slip it past the end of the quill under power and you'll have a problem.

Doc.

[hephaestus]

I just said the adjustable stop.

[Boostinjdm]

If you need more travel use the knee. I don't use the adjustable stop much. Instead, I use a spring loaded clamp on stop.

[JoeLee]

It's designed to stop at that point for a reason, and it is a good one.
Enter at your own risk.

JL...............

[Stepside]

Some thoughts on the Quill and Knee of a BP mill.

My mill is a 1965 vintage out of a school shop and was dirty, battle scarred from 30 years of students. About the only time I use the quill is to drill or use the boring head. Once I "discovered" that the "Zerk" fittings were for oil not grease, I cleaned everything up and bought an "Oil Gun". In the cleaning I also serviced the crank and screw that jacks up the knee as well as cleaned and adjusted the gibbs on the knee. The outcome is that the knee is easy to raise and lower as well as accurate. I don't think the students ever used the knee.

My sequence for removing a given amount off a part is: 1) after fastening the material on the table/in the vise, with the quill retracted, bring the knee up until almost touching the cutter. 2) "Zero" the knee dial. 3) lower the quill until it touches the part and lock the quill. 4) lower the knee at least .050 and move the cutter off the part. 5) raise the knee back to "Zero" and then raise the knee to the desired depth of cut.

If everything is lubricated and adjusted as it should be, this is far more accurate than using the quill and a layout line.

[hephaestus]

Maybe I get sidetracked a little myself sometimes, but ???

I ask a simple question and someone explains how to remove material ???

[sarge41]

It is strongly recommended not to remove the quill stop. At that point, they are already nearly maxed out. To remove the stop is inviting trouble. If you need just a little more drill depth, get an Ex-cel-lo mill. They have a 6" length quill.

Sarge

[Carm]

Maybe I get sidetracked a little myself sometimes, but ???

I ask a simple question and someone explains how to remove material ???

No one is attempting to make you feel like an idiot. Don't look for offense and you won't find it.
At this point if your quill drops out, you knew better.

[Stepside]

Hephaestus

My point was another way to get the job done without endangering your spindle. Also unless you spindle lock and spindle are pristine, moving the knee is more accurate. Especially if you keep the spindle locked through the entire process.

I apologize if I offended you as that was not my intent.

Pete

[J Tiers]

It is strongly recommended not to remove the quill stop. At that point, they are already nearly maxed out. To remove the stop is inviting trouble. If you need just a little more drill depth, get an Ex-cel-lo mill. They have a 6" length quill.

Sarge

So, I believe, do other BP heads. Some 3.5", some 6" or so.

[hephaestus]

No need to apologize, I don't get offended.