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View Full Version : Oh to have a fork lift



JPR
07-19-2004, 03:41 PM
Finally got the mill unloaded, it has been sitting on the trailer for a while as you can tell by the grass that has grown up next to the fence where the trailer was parked.

First order was lifting the truck 16" to tilt the trailer down to more closely match the steel ramps.
http://community.webshots.com/photo/160960885/165014183qIaGtO

This shows using the other truck to drag the mill down the ramps. Not shown are two jack stands under the back of the trailer for safety. There is a 8' 2x4 on each ramp to keep the pallet from hanging on the cross bars.
http://community.webshots.com/photo/160960885/165014084beOobE

Finally getting the mill off the pallet onto 4x6 boards so I can lift it with the hoist.
http://community.webshots.com/photo/160960885/165014275TtgUXA

lynnl
07-19-2004, 03:55 PM
...or a huge old oak tree with a massive, strong limb, in just the right place.

Michael Az
07-19-2004, 06:00 PM
About a year ago I bought a nice little Clark 3,000 lb forklift. I wasn't looking for one but a friend had it and said he would sell it to me for $1,000. I couldn't resist. Now I could never live without it. One of the most valuable tools I have!
Michael

ibewgypsie
07-19-2004, 06:22 PM
Aframes are a thing of the past huh? I put rollers on the one at the shop. You can lift a car on it. Much more stable than a cherry picker. Perhaps I should post pictures. ours knocks down quick with pulling pins..

It'll straddle a trailer, has a 2 ton chainfall on it. I am scared of it outside on dirt thou.

I had my cherry picker took apart, the boom installed on the front bumper of the old chevy 4x4 here, no other bracind, it would lift 500+ pounds. Any more then that and the rear wheels look light.
I'd never try to lift something as heavy as a mill/lathe with a rig like that thou.

I am gathering parts to install a boom onto my new aqquired HSM truck.

David

[This message has been edited by ibewgypsie (edited 07-19-2004).]

JPR
07-19-2004, 06:48 PM
Actually I debated about building an A frame. There is pipe sitting on the trailer that could have been used. One of my concerns was storing afterwards.
I know this much, we move next year like the wife wants, I will have an A frame or a fork lift to load and unload both machines.

wierdscience
07-19-2004, 06:58 PM
Nice mill,kinda scary truck ramps though http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//eek.gif


Yep,I have to build me another A-frame,everytime I load out at an auction where there is no forklift somebody offers to buy it,and after I'm loaded if their offer is good I sell it http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

Last one I made was in five peices,one 2x2x3/16"square tube crossmember and four 2x2x11ga legs,picks up 2ton no sweat.The next will be built with longer legs and a deeper truss strap.Kinda handy being able to hand carry something that will lift 2tons safely into a building through a 7'door.

[This message has been edited by wierdscience (edited 07-19-2004).]

ibewgypsie
07-19-2004, 06:59 PM
JP,

This aframe is 3" heavy wall with bracing. I would have to look to see what it is really rated to lift. The legs are much thinner tubing.
I have lifted a small truck with it, a 39 ford with no ill results.

I think the span strength is really important to consider. The one that sold at the auction Saturday would lift 2 tons, but it was Ibeam on the top. It sold for $500. ANy HSM should be able to build one for that.

David

ibewgypsie
07-19-2004, 07:01 PM
Weird:

It'd do US good to post pictures.. that sounds a lot lighter then the one we have..

I keep getting hurt moving heavy items. I am building a real ramp trailer, the aframe we have is a two man ordeal.

David


JPR: How about putting some rings on the bottom and calling it a heavy swing-set?


[This message has been edited by ibewgypsie (edited 07-19-2004).]

wierdscience
07-19-2004, 07:19 PM
Dave,the last one the heaviest part was the cross rail,it wieghed about 75 lbs,the legs only 25 or so.I always carry a small rope block and tackle along,theres just about always something I can hook to to stand it up.Last auction I went to they were gouging people to load machines,$500 for a stinking b-port mill,that is unless you do your own,when the other guys saw it I got all kinds of offers,the "high bidder" got it for $350 which saved him about $1500.Now I get to build version 4.0 http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif Oh,also started a new colapso-cart today,kind of an ajustable strap-it to the machine dolly.

wierdscience
07-19-2004, 08:02 PM
Actually,if you look around,you may find one of these cheap-
http://img4.photobucket.com/albums/0903/wierdscience/FORKLIFT.jpg

Hyster H50J 5,000 cap,propane,Paid $700,customer at work had it at his bagging plant,it was parked over on the side,I had mentioned that I was looking for one and as we walked past it,he said if I wanted a good lift I could have it for the remaining depreciated value.

I got it home,it needed minor things like a kingpin and brakes,parts and all cost me $300 so I got a total of $1000 in it,thing is nobody wants to work on forklifts,so they get parked because of safty regs,now that this one is fixed,I can paint it and put on a new seat and then it will fetch $5,000 easy.My next lift is a 6,000 lb all terrain,I don't have any concrete at the moment so I can only use the Hyster when its dry out,even still its a god send.

Buddy down the street bought an old Clark at auction,old and ugly,but ran and worked good,paid $500,worth every penny.

ibewgypsie
07-19-2004, 08:23 PM
I have tried to use hard tire fork lifts outside.

We hung lights around a building by laying down plywood and running on it. It is a wonder I didn't get killed.

I got a small place, thou we could use one at the bike shop. My buddy has bought, piled, and stacked the shop full. No room for anything else inside.

I turned 4" channel on it's side, made a offset, put square tubing on the ends with a castor on each corner. Putting a square 2" inside the 2 1/2 sq tube, pulling it together, locking the 2 ends together, the lips on the back of the channel would hold the machine off the floor. get it under, around it and you could push it with one hand.

David

[This message has been edited by ibewgypsie (edited 07-19-2004).]

yf
07-19-2004, 09:16 PM
Built this a few years ago. it stays parked over the inground cellar door beacause of lack of space, but I designed it to knock down.

It uses beam clamps, so the span can be adjusted or the beam swapped. It will take up to an 8" wide flange "I" beam, as long as I want.

http://img4.photobucket.com/albums/0603/machines/Rigging/gantry_pics.jpg

ibewgypsie
07-19-2004, 09:52 PM
Looks pretty stout YF.. but not portable.

I keep the big one of ours at the shop, it is not near as nice as yours.

My small shop has 8' walls. It needs really a jib crane off the wall steel.

Outside thou, I need something exactly like you have.. as soon as some free steel comes along.. or some I can tattoo for.. (*cheap bastich I am) I put the last piece of Ibeam up in my shop under the big door. It is not braced up enough to lift a whole lot thou. I got it sitting on 2x3 rect tubing with a span of 12 feet.. it bows with a car engine, so it won't take much more then that. I did tie it to the center joist in my roof too thou. Ibeam is so expensive to purchase new,, geeze.. I think $24 a foot. The ideal workshop has a gantry crane with the building tacked on the outside.

I got the hots for something really light and mobile that will lift a whole lot.

I guess that makes 61 projects started and unfinished..

David

yf
07-19-2004, 10:05 PM
Its not obvious in the above pics, but the whole thing knocks down and fits in a van.

The 2 legs are only about 6' tall and the height is ajustable in 6" increments.

The small pad of channel you see sticking out horizontally is for a jack to raise the beam.

The beam clamps have a socket welded on their bottom that is held in position with large setscrews (bolts).

I designed it all so one man can set it up and knock it down.

Allan Waterfall
07-20-2004, 08:47 AM
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by wierdscience:



The next will be built with longer legs and a deeper *truss* strap.Kinda handy being able to hand carry something that will lift 2tons safely into a building through a 7'door.

[This message has been edited by wierdscience (edited 07-19-2004).]</font>

Wierd,

Have you been using that cream again. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

Allan



[This message has been edited by Allan Waterfall (edited 07-20-2004).]

ibewgypsie
07-20-2004, 10:47 AM
YF:

The Ibeam weight is what I was referring to, the Ibeam I raised in my shop ceiling weighs 38lbs per foot, is 16 feet long. Or a little over 600 pounds. I carried one end to my shop, then had to chainfall it into the ceiling. I don't consider that portable. (ohh the rascal weighed as much as my harley) I used to lift items that heavy, nowadays I use a long board to load a bike. I did set one end on top of a 6' ladder which quivered all the time I was lifting the other end. Then I come-a-longed the ladder end up the three extra feet. I got a good fiberglass ladder right?

Yours must be a lot lighter. I guess I have not researched the span loading vs the physical weight of tubing and ibeams per thickness. I remember seeing one in the Machinist handbook a year or two back.

Just thinking out loud, a very light I beam should be much stronger than the 3" tubing on our shop Aframe. I still need a chart.

One that would reduce to the height of my 7 foot door in my shop would be fantastic. Good ideal. Maybe a use for the 6"x48" cylinders I have.

YF:.. why don't you add picture of this to the tips section? You'd need to put a line feed between the pics or it'd ruin the width tho.

David

[This message has been edited by ibewgypsie (edited 07-20-2004).]

Happy
07-20-2004, 12:45 PM
One of the best and cheapest ways to move big, heavy stuff outside is to call the towtruck guy. He can come over, pick up the item, and move it into a doorway for a small fee. If you let him pick the time, he might give you a cheap rate.

wierdscience
07-20-2004, 08:02 PM
No Allan,I don't need the length,I just need help lifting it up http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//eek.gif http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

gundog
07-21-2004, 11:31 AM
I used to work as a Clark forklift mechanic if you run into any problems let me know. I still have some specialty tools for Clarks.
Mike

sandman2234
07-23-2004, 10:29 AM
That old ford 350 that I have, has a Pacificrane (jib crane) mounted on the rear and will lift about 2500 pounds.(Rated at that) Stand it up straight and it will pick up something almost 13'6".
Needed to pick up a piece of equipment from a friends place, and didn't thing the jib would work, so I threw together a 3 legged crane rail on the back with about 7' of overhang. It stands 13.5' tall and looks kind of strange on the back of that truck.
David from jax

ibewgypsie
07-23-2004, 04:20 PM
http://photos.imageevent.com/moparnorm/flatfenderpowerwagons/websize/gin%20pole.jpg
Is more what I had in mind for my truck.

I had one of these powerwagons, looking around I see I sold it too cheap.

David



[This message has been edited by ibewgypsie (edited 07-23-2004).]

ibewgypsie
07-23-2004, 04:44 PM
http://imageevent.com/moparnorm/flatfenderpowerwagons
The rest of the power wagon pictures, not my site.. No popups I seen there.

David

ibewgypsie
07-25-2004, 08:59 AM
I think the whole ideal about lifting heavy objects is to keep the load centered.

Where my shop is here I am built on the side of a hill. A Gin pole on my 4x4 would be great untill I turned and the load swung out turning my truck over. Not a real good prospect. Even with the cherry picker bolted to the front bumper it pulled quite hard on the truck when I would turn it around here on the hill. I'd lower the load so close to the ground then lift it again right before putting item on trailer. (old heavy welders) That way if it gave way it'd just sit down on the ground before turning truck over.

I am interested in a rig heavy enough to lift a bridgeport. Be mobile by one man.

I'd like specifics on the extending A-frame. What size, thickness tubing is it that slides in each other? Thickness of I-beam on top? diagonal braces? Could the extending basement supports work for the side legs? they are light tubing.

David