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Ralphxyz
02-22-2017, 01:30 PM
Would someone please interpret these lube instructions.

Drive gears run in the oil bath and won’t require lubricant change more than once a year. When changing, put down the head to a horizontal position and loosen screws on the gearbox.

Open the cover and place pan under the right lower corner of the gear box.

Slowly raise the head until the oil flows out.

Lower the head and wipe up excess oil.

Add lubricant until it is full.

Close cover and tighten screws.

These instructions are prefaced with "Lubricate the parts listed below using SAE30."

Is SAE30 what I should use in the gearbox?

I bought this saw a couple of years ago at a yard sale ($50.00).

I have occasionally used it but for the past month I have been using it for at least 2 hours every day.

The motor is running very very hot.

Thought I'd best investigate so put the saw in horizontal mode and pulled the gearbox cover.

There is no "oil" in the gearbox the gears are dry there is some real thick sludge but it has all migrated away from the gears.

So please tell me exactly how I should fill up the gearbox and what oil to use.

I wish there were fill plugs and drain plugs, maybe I will add them but I need to know how much to add.

Thanks for the help!!

Ralph

softtail
02-22-2017, 01:32 PM
SAE30 is what my Johnson band saw takes in the gearbox fwiw.

BCRider
02-22-2017, 01:43 PM
My own saw came with a dry box too. Just whatever oil was on the gears from the factory. I didn't use it for long before I noticed it had a nasty whirring sound from the box and opened it.

In my case there was no note on what oil to use and the manual was long gone. It's a lower speed use so I opted for some 80 weight gear oil. It's been running on the same fill for 15 years now. I suppose I should open the cover to see how it's doing.

The motor will heat up during a long cut. That's normal for any motor. Run your lathe for a big job that has it running for most of an hour then feel how warm it is. If it's hot enough that you can put your hand on it or even if you can only touch it for a few seconds before pulling back that's about normal. IF your skin sizzles and makes you pull back like touching a soldering iron then it's too hot.

Changing the oil in the box isn't something you'll do a lot. Just filling it to the edge of the box, which is usually on an angle, is easy enough. I don't see any advantage to drilling and tapping for plugs. And besides, removing the cover gives you a chance to inspect the condition of the gears and bearings.

lynnl
02-22-2017, 03:24 PM
. Just filling it to the edge of the box, which is usually on an angle, is easy enough. I don't see any advantage to drilling and tapping for plugs. And besides, removing the cover gives you a chance to inspect the condition of the gears and bearings.

I agree. Following a suggestion I saw here, or some other similar source, I drilled and tapped for drain and fill plugs on my Jet 5" X 6". Since then at times it has weeped a tiny bit of oil, despite adding teflon tape and pipe dope. Which means I've occasionally had to tilt and open it up anyway , just to be safe.

The leakage is so slight I never see a trickle, just the orange track left by the colored synthetic oil.

EddyCurr
02-22-2017, 03:41 PM
These instructions are prefaced with "Lubricate the parts listed below using SAE30."

Is SAE30 what I should use in the gearbox?I will venture to add that what is intended is a machine oil, not an engine oil. In other words, look for a non-detergent SAE30 oil. (Non-detergent oils allow impurities to settle out, detergent oils attempt to keep same in suspension.)

SAE30 is equivalent to ISO 100: Mobil DTE Heavy is rated ISO 100.

SAE30 is also equivalent to AGMA 3 (American Gear Manufacturer's Assn). Be aware there is also an AGMA 3EP; EP means extreme pressure. EP additives may react w/ yellow metals such as bronze, leading to wear/early failure of gears and bearings made of these materials.

EddyCurr
02-22-2017, 04:06 PM
A manual for an MBS45 is available at Buffalotools.com.

The parts diagram indicates that a worm gear is present in the gear box, this gear is very likely made of yellow metal.

IMO, EP lubricant is NOT recommended in an MBS45.

mf205i
02-22-2017, 06:00 PM
Here are the lube and roller clearance recommendations that I found.
BAND SAW GEAR LUBE AND CLEARANCE
ELIS 80-140WT GEAR OIL .001
JET MOBIL SHC 634. .001
HF 140GEAR OIL 0-.001
RONG FU 30WT 0-.001
CRAFTEX 30WT 0-.001

Good luck, Mike

EddyCurr
02-22-2017, 06:48 PM
Here are the lube and roller clearance recommendations that I found.
BAND SAW GEAR LUBE AND CLEARANCE
ELIS 80-140WT GEAR OIL .001
JET MOBIL SHC 634. .001
HF 140GEAR OIL 0-.001
RONG FU 30WT 0-.001
CRAFTEX 30WT 0-.001I dispute the first three choices on the basis of incorrect viscosity (high/thick).

SAE Engine Oil viscosity is identified using a different numerical scale than SAE Gear Oil.

SAE 30 engine oil has a viscosity equivalent to SAE 80W-90 gear oil. However, the recommendation above for SAE 80-140 gear oil is equivalent to well over SAE 60 engine oil (70?). In my opinion, neither the Elis 80-140 or the HF 140 are suitable for the OP's application calling for SAE 30.

Jet's recommendation of Mobil SHC 634 also seems inappropriate for this application. Mobil's SHC series is a synthethic gear oil. Within this series Mobil SHC 634 has a viscosity rating of ISO 460, similar to the Elis and HF 80-140 mineral oils - well over SAE 60. In other words - too thick.

However, Mobil SHC 627 has a rating of ISO 100 - equivalent to SAE 30. If you do not mind paying a premium for synthetic, Mobil SHC 627 would appear to meet the OP's requirements. The data sheet makes reference to multi-metal compatibility - do your own due diligence to determine whether this means safe for yellow metals,