View Full Version : Tool & cutter grinder workrest update project

J Tiers
02-26-2017, 09:47 PM
A while back I made a workrest for my kludged up tool and cutter grinder


I finally got around to finishing it as I had intended. Uts a bit rough, but it does what I want.

I re-worked the adjusting knob to an angle for better visibility of the numbers for adjustment. Then I actually put on the graduations, and stamped numbers. A keyway was cut and a key installed to keep the rod-holder from turning with the adjusting knob.

The threading on the rod- holder that the knob raises and lowers is 20 tpi, so it is calibrated for 50 divisions, each being a one thou change in height.

Used the Dumont broach set I picked up a while back, cutting the seat for the key on the ID of the base. That turned out a bit harder than I thought, since the bushing for the 5/8" size was made wrong, so the broach had a huge initial cut to make. I had to fix the bushing first. The bushing was cut so shallow that the lead-in on the broach would not enter the hole. After that, things went better.

I did get paint in the knurling though, and it refuses to come out. I had wanted black paint in the marks and numbers, but found that I didn;t have any except latex that did not stick. So I used Rustoleum rusty metal red primer. It's OK, but not as visible as I had hoped.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/jstanley/tooling/IMG_3950_zps6co6ccgj.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/jstanley/media/tooling/IMG_3950_zps6co6ccgj.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/jstanley/tooling/IMG_3951_zpsdeypuugm.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/jstanley/media/tooling/IMG_3951_zpsdeypuugm.jpg.html)

For those not having a T&C grinder, the device is used to hold and index a cutter. It is adjusted for height in order to set the desired angle for the cutter relief and other angles associated with sharpening something like a slitting saw, horizontal milling cutter, reamer, tap, etc. As you go from tooth to tooth, or flute to flute, the support "blade" flexes out of the way, and snaps back to support the next tooth.

You typically start with the tooth on the center line, then lower or raise it to get a relief angle behind the cutting edge. That raising or lowering is a certain amount depending on the angle, and the wheel or cutter diameter, so it is important to get the right distance set.

02-26-2017, 10:28 PM
You did a great job on that dial.


J Tiers
02-26-2017, 10:38 PM
Except for the &^%$#@! line that you can clearly see is out of position. No idea how that happened, I was using the paper guide on the chuck technique, so no losing count of turns or other easy excuse!

It WOULD have to be next to one of the better number stampings.... I did the numbers by hand due to the odd angle (30 deg) for which I have no holder, and some of them didn't stamp completely in the right place..