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QSIMDO
03-23-2017, 05:34 PM
Not looking for a 2" knife grinder but something maybe 4" - 6" wide.

Got a 3600 rpm , 3 hp, 3 phase Baldor motor for power just beggin' for a job.

sarge41
03-23-2017, 10:43 PM
That sounds like a lot of HP for a 6" belt anything. I would think about a 1/2 HP motor.

Sarge

larry_g
03-23-2017, 10:54 PM
That sounds like a lot of HP for a 6" belt anything. I would think about a 1/2 HP motor.

Sarge

I disagree with this. I have a 1.5 horse on a 6" belt and can stall it. 3 hp sounds about right.

lg
no neat sig line

lakeside53
03-23-2017, 11:12 PM
I agree....

Mr Fixit
03-24-2017, 12:44 AM
Lakeside,

You agree with Sarge or Larry_g ?

I'm thinking a 6"x 72" or 120" belt and wheel assembly.The 3hp would make a killer general use belt sander. The glazer in the shop uses a 6"x72" wet sander on all his window glazing replacement pieces to cut the edges, and it works real well with a 1.5hp that​ we replaced a couple of yrs ago because of bad bearings.
I say bigger is better, GO FOR IT!!

TX
Mr fixit for the family
Chris. :)

lakeside53
03-24-2017, 12:52 AM
larry_g

I have a 1.5hp 6 inch belt sander and a 2x72 3hp. The problem will occur on larger grit when hogging. Take your time and you can use any hp. You really should slow down the belt for finer grits anyhow.

cijuanni
03-24-2017, 12:52 AM
A Jancy 4"x79 is 4hp and Burr King 3x79 are 3-5hp.

I say bigger is better too.
6" >> 5hp min. :)

Black Forest
03-24-2017, 02:47 AM
I have a a little over 3hp on my 2" x 72" belt grinder and when I have a 36 grit belt on it I can bog the motor some grinding steel.

R W
03-24-2017, 03:12 AM
That sounds like a lot of HP for a 6" belt anything. I would think about a 1/2 HP motor.

Sarge

The lowest HP recommended for the NoWeld 2x72" is 1.5 HP.

MattiJ
03-24-2017, 04:02 AM
A Jancy 4"x79 is 4hp and Burr King 3x79 are 3-5hp.

I say bigger is better too.
6" >> 5hp min. :)

Around here 3" units seem to be 4-5.5hp and 6" units 5 to 7.5hp so OP's 3hp is definitely not an overkill.

cijuanni
03-24-2017, 10:27 AM
Around here 3" units seem to be 4-5.5hp and 6" units 5 to 7.5hp so OP's 3hp is definitely not an overkill.

Yeah, do you want to grind steel or fall asleep to the purr of a belt gently caressing and warming a piece of Fe?

QSIMDO
03-24-2017, 11:22 AM
..................(sigh)

OK, you guys all done now?
Can't say I didn't expect it.

Here's the deal; I'M LOOKING FOR PLANS for a belt grinder...WIDER than 2 inches.
I PRESENTLY HAVE a 3hp motor and that's what I'm using, period.
DON'T WANT a knife grinder but if one can be scaled up so be it.
I emailed Tom Lipton because he had a video on his DIY Baldor-esque grinder but he get's more email in a day than Amazon so no response.

I've searched but little other than plywood framed sanders comes up so...does anyone have/can point me to plans?

MattiJ
03-24-2017, 11:27 AM
Start by sourcing reasonably priced contact wheel :p

mattthemuppet
03-24-2017, 11:31 AM
Homemade tools.net might have some. I've been looking at building a belt sander for a while (2x48 probably) and I've just found a lot of pictures to go from. Most people seem to work with the material and skills that they have, so every one I've seen looks different.

QSIMDO
03-24-2017, 11:37 AM
Start by sourcing reasonably priced contact wheel :p

The stock is in my lathe, ready for turning.

QSIMDO
03-24-2017, 11:38 AM
Homemade tools.net might have some. I've been looking at building a belt sander for a while (2x48 probably) and I've just found a lot of pictures to go from. Most people seem to work with the material and skills that they have, so every one I've seen looks different.

I was surprised that didn't immediately pop up when I was searching.
I'll go direct.

MattiJ
03-24-2017, 11:40 AM
Making your own "plans" shouldn't be rocket science, right? ;)

Draw with E7018 and iterate with 9" rotary eraser as they say ;)

Maybe you can copy some ideas out of these:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qa8NL9d3ApQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LNKhVJpKNK8

QSIMDO
03-24-2017, 11:49 AM
Making your own "plans" shouldn't be rocket science, right? ;)

Draw with E7018 and iterate with 9" rotary eraser as they say ;)

Maybe you can copy some ideas out of these:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qa8NL9d3ApQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LNKhVJpKNK8

I figure why engineer what has to be perfected by now?
I'll be victim of the mistakes of someone way too far away to yell at.
If I design it I'll just waste time standing there cursing myself out. ;)

Captain K
03-24-2017, 12:23 PM
There's a pretty good plan for an upright belt grinder in on of Randolph Bulgin's books, maybe the green one. It looks pretty straight forward and should scale up good too. I think his is only 2"

Glug
03-24-2017, 02:02 PM
It is interesting that 6" builds are so uncommon. I appreciate not wanting to re-invent the wheel. There are plenty of industrial examples. Studying photos of those builds would probably be very worthwhile. Request the operator manuals to see how the belt adjustment mechanisms work.

How about narrowing the requirements?

This will be a 2 wheel grinder
I assume you want to grind on one or both the wheel faces?
And grind on a platten?
Will the long axis be vertical or horizontal?
Will the face of the belt be vertical or horizontal?
Will it pivot between horiz and vert?

How you adjust belt alignment on a heavy duty machine seems like one of the big questions.

Are you thinking of something like this?

https://feintools-online.com/fein-grinders/fein-belt-grinders.html

Paul Alciatore
03-24-2017, 02:34 PM
Yes, it is amazing how much HP a belt sander needs. It seems that sandpaper has a lot of friction. Fancy that!




I disagree with this. I have a 1.5 horse on a 6" belt and can stall it. 3 hp sounds about right.

lg
no neat sig line

QSIMDO
03-24-2017, 05:36 PM
It is interesting that 6" builds are so uncommon. I appreciate not wanting to re-invent the wheel. There are plenty of industrial examples. Studying photos of those builds would probably be very worthwhile. Request the operator manuals to see how the belt adjustment mechanisms work.

How about narrowing the requirements?

This will be a 2 wheel grinder
I assume you want to grind on one or both the wheel faces?
And grind on a platten?
Will the long axis be vertical or horizontal?
Will the face of the belt be vertical or horizontal?
Will it pivot between horiz and vert?

How you adjust belt alignment on a heavy duty machine seems like one of the big questions.

Are you thinking of something like this?

https://feintools-online.com/fein-grinders/fein-belt-grinders.html

Oh...Malwarebytes doesn't like that site!
But, yes, along those lines, vertical axis, etc.
What's hindering my creativity is that it's a C face motor with no provision for a foot.
That's my excuse anyway.

MillNut
03-24-2017, 06:23 PM
I'm currently building this grinder. Was originally supposed to go on my Craftsman 1/3hp grinder. That didn't work out![emoji33] I have a 1 hp Leeson that came with my lathe that I never had a use for until now. I modified my Inventor model for the mast to fit on the Leeson. Also had to turn up a new lower driver. Od is just under 6". Went on vacation and haven't got back on it yet. Will shortly though.

I did have to make a new front cover for the motor so the mast would bolt on. Also in the pics, the belt tensioner needs to have a 1/4" deep slot milled for it to nest in.I realize this is for a2" x 48" belt, however I think the design can be adjusted to accommodate a wider belt. I do have a Inventor 2014 model of what I did. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170324/15ebd8bf84ed54a7248069cb3cfafc63.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170324/9693d1f03b1758b8f903f7726a7123a9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170324/f42cc1c80ca128a8eb26e122d2303a21.jpg


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MillNut
03-24-2017, 06:25 PM
Couple pics of the front cover:https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170324/e278b3e9858ed27201d7fb9baaee14a7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170324/c9bf94b0318576973650acb40da61ea3.jpg


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mattthemuppet
03-24-2017, 08:17 PM
dang, that's some lovely work, especially the new end bell for the motor. I'm particularly interested in the belt tensioner - is the doodad with the knurled brass wheel for adjusting belt tension or tracking? Those 2 things are what I've been thinking about the most, the rest is pretty similar to your set up, just not direct mount.

QSIMDO
03-24-2017, 09:43 PM
H. Crap, MillNut, you're not screwin' around there!
That bell end is worth 5 times more than the motor.
If you wanted to bum me out you scored heavy...well, no, not too bad because my motor has no foot.

Draw it up for a face mount and I'll build it!

Tundra Twin Track
03-24-2017, 11:11 PM
Very nice work ,is the vertical 3/4" plate?

velocette
03-24-2017, 11:13 PM
Hi
Plenty of grunt fort he job in hand to drive a 6"pulley = 5654 feet per minute or 8" pulley = 7500 feet per minute.
Crown the drive pulley to keep the band running on centre and a parallel Idler with a tracking mechanism.

Eric

MattiJ
03-25-2017, 01:57 AM
The stock is in my lathe, ready for turning.

Reason I asked is that solid aluminium/steel contact wheel sucks with many of the belts. Rubber contact wheel is the way to go but making one is not trivial task and store bought contact wheels are crazy expensive at least around here.

lakeside53
03-25-2017, 02:05 AM
A quality 2x10 inch wheel with balanced hub was less than $200 IIRC

One of the cheaper solutions for a contact wheel is to buy one as a spare part from Grizzly.

I hate to think what a 6x10 inch would cost

MattiJ
03-25-2017, 02:42 AM
A quality 2x10 inch wheel with balanced hub was less than $200 IIRC

One of the cheaper solutions for a contact wheel is to buy one as a spare part from Grizzly.

I hate to think what a 6x10 inch would cost

Grizzly contact wheel is not too bad price, ~140 eur/usd but they seem to have only 3" wide model. Here the "asian crap" importers ask 300eur for the contact wheel when you can have the whole 3kW grinder for less than 800.:p
Anything under 300 usd is probably a bargain for 6" contact wheel.


---
Grizzly manual and parts list might be worth a look, you can see the construction pretty well.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/4-HP-220V-3-Phase-Metalworking-Belt-Sander/G0489?utm_campaign=zPage&utm_source=grizzly.com

RichR
03-25-2017, 10:12 AM
A quality 2x10 inch wheel with balanced hub was less than $200 IIRC

One of the cheaper solutions for a contact wheel is to buy one as a spare part from Grizzly.

I hate to think what a 6x10 inch would cost

Maybe use a go kart tire, or possibly one of those solid smooth wheels used on a forklift?

lakeside53
03-25-2017, 10:31 AM
It all depend on the durometer you want. My wheel is serrated and a lot softer then "hard", I think around 90. from here : http://www.contactrubber.com/detail.asp?c=379


Here's grizzly for $100 shipped.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/G9242-Grizzly-10-Aluminum-Rubber-Wheel-For-Grizzly-G1015-/291477091255?_trksid=p2385738.m2548.l4275

brian Rupnow
03-25-2017, 11:44 AM
I get the idea that you are looking for plans for a serious belt grinder like mine. I built this many years ago. It has a two horsepower motor on this one, and when I turn it on all the lights in Barrie go dim until it is up to speed. I don't have any plans now, but you might pick up a few hints from these pictures. One thing I would change if I ever built another--Don't use a v-belt drive from the motor to the powered roller. It eats up too much horsepower. Put the drive pulley right on the output shaft of the motor, or use a Lovejoy style coupling between the motor output shaft and the powered roller shaft.---Brian
http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn294/BrianRupnow/IMG_0691_zps8wwinudc.jpg (http://s307.photobucket.com/user/BrianRupnow/media/IMG_0691_zps8wwinudc.jpg.html)
http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn294/BrianRupnow/IMG_0692_zpsidi4e7i1.jpg (http://s307.photobucket.com/user/BrianRupnow/media/IMG_0692_zpsidi4e7i1.jpg.html)
http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn294/BrianRupnow/IMG_0693_zpsrwfnudy5.jpg (http://s307.photobucket.com/user/BrianRupnow/media/IMG_0693_zpsrwfnudy5.jpg.html)

QSIMDO
03-25-2017, 11:49 AM
It all depend on the durometer you want. My wheel is serrated and a lot softer then "hard", I think around 90. from here : http://www.contactrubber.com/detail.asp?c=379


Here's grizzly for $100 shipped.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/G9242-Grizzly-10-Aluminum-Rubber-Wheel-For-Grizzly-G1015-/291477091255?_trksid=p2385738.m2548.l4275

Do you find you work at the wheel a lot?

lakeside53
03-25-2017, 11:54 AM
yes but I'm lazy so whatever attachment I have installed last typically gets used "next time". Wheels are superb for fine control and curves etc; plattens are great for straight and angles. Mid-belt (slack portion) get uses a lot.

I have a 6x48 Grizzly with 12 inch disk for "other" work but it's single speed and more of an ax than a scalpel.

QSIMDO
03-25-2017, 04:36 PM
I get the idea that you are looking for plans for a serious belt grinder like mine. I built this many years ago. It has a two horsepower motor on this one, and when I turn it on all the lights in Barrie go dim until it is up to speed. I don't have any plans now, but you might pick up a few hints from these pictures. One thing I would change if I ever built another--Don't use a v-belt drive from the motor to the powered roller. It eats up too much horsepower. Put the drive pulley right on the output shaft of the motor, or use a Lovejoy style coupling between the motor output shaft and the powered roller shaft.---Brian


Thank you Brian!
The top roller adjusts both tension and tracking?
Oh, no...wait, I see something going on at the left side.
Yes I see the tension adjuster now.

Glug
03-25-2017, 04:44 PM
I see the tracking adjustment at the top wheel. And I see what looks like a tension adjusting bolt on the left side. Is there any provision for a quick release and belt change?

MattiJ
03-25-2017, 05:02 PM
Maybe use a go kart tire, or possibly one of those solid smooth wheels used on a forklift?

Forklift wheels are possibly one option but you probably need to balance them. 7000fpm is 80 miles per hour, unusual speed for forklift.

Boat trailer rollers might be one possibility, these are only couple of bucks per piece but you need to get inventive with the hub and bearing:
http://images.biltema.com/PAXToImageService.svc/product/large/2000038516
And that one is 88mm dia or about 3.5", if your maximum belt speed is 7000fpm that 3.5" roller is going to spin at 7800rpm! :p

I have 3x110" belt grinder project with 3kW 2-speed motor..
Aliexpress has 3"x8" wheels for about 80 usd including shipping, I would have ordered already but don't want to pay the DHL customs "service" extortion fees. :mad:

brian Rupnow
03-25-2017, 05:45 PM
There is no quick release. You loosen off the adjusting bolt on the left side and that lets the bottom roller, shaft, bearings and support slide up to change the belt. The rollers that the belt roll on are mild steel. Belt never slips, and lasts one to two years.--I see absolutely no reason to go to plastic or rubberized wheels. The wheels on the sander in the picture are 4 1/2" solid steel. It takes a lot to get the sander up to speed because of the weight of the pulleys.--If I was making it again I would make the pulleys from aluminum or from steel pipe with 3/16" wall and welded in endplates. -Brian

Ohio Mike
03-25-2017, 09:28 PM
Tom Lipton's 6x48
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dJiKV2XMMvA

brian Rupnow
03-26-2017, 09:49 AM
That is an excellent design of a belt sander. If I was to make another, that is almost exactly what I would do.----Brian

Hal
03-26-2017, 10:31 AM
Strange when I click on that link I get roach coach video.

Hal

Glug
03-26-2017, 10:38 AM
Great video. Nice simple design. As he mentioned, it has worn well in a couple decades of shop use.

At what HP and force do any of those build choices become overloaded and deflect or wear? For example, when you're bogging down a 5HP motor. Will the belt walk from pulley or structure deflection?

The aluminum table bracket, with the nearly continuous slot, looks like it might be a potential source of table deflection? Easy enough to make it steel.

He mentioned flush mounting the motor studs to the plate was a challenge but apparently couldn't quite recall how he made the fasteners to do it. And one of them failed - either lost the head or it sheared off.

brian Rupnow
03-26-2017, 10:54 AM
Strange when I click on that link I get roach coach video.

Hal
Just let it play for about 30 seconds--Then you get to the belt sander build.

Ohio Mike
03-26-2017, 04:05 PM
That is an excellent design of a belt sander. If I was to make another, that is almost exactly what I would do.----Brian

Its one of those things on my to-do list. It will move up the list when I find the donor motor.

MattiJ
03-26-2017, 04:13 PM
Great video. Nice simple design. As he mentioned, it has worn well in a couple decades of shop use.

At what HP and force do any of those build choices become overloaded and deflect or wear? For example, when you're bogging down a 5HP motor. Will the belt walk from pulley or structure deflection?

The aluminum table bracket, with the nearly continuous slot, looks like it might be a potential source of table deflection? Easy enough to make it steel.

He mentioned flush mounting the motor studs to the plate was a challenge but apparently couldn't quite recall how he made the fasteners to do it. And one of them failed - either lost the head or it sheared off.

5hp motor doesn't bog down with slow belt speed like in Brians or Tom Lipton's grinder. "Do you want to grind steel or fall asleep to the purr of a belt gently caressing and warming a piece of Fe"
But it all depends on use, slow speed is better for finer belts.

lakeside53
03-26-2017, 04:24 PM
Yes, that's why have a vfd and 3hp on a 2x72. with 18 grit I let it rip full speed (6000sfm). With 2000 grit... lol.. slow way way down.

brian Rupnow
03-26-2017, 04:29 PM
My belt sander does not bog down. It takes a fair amount of grunt to go from zero to full rpm, but that is only due to the mass of the solid steel pulleys. Once it's running, there is no "bog down" to it.

MattiJ
03-26-2017, 04:47 PM
My belt sander does not bog down. It takes a fair amount of grunt to go from zero to full rpm, but that is only due to the mass of the solid steel pulleys. Once it's running, there is no "bog down" to it.

What is the belt speed on yours?
Gentle caressing or material removal oriented? ;)

brian Rupnow
03-26-2017, 06:21 PM
Motor rpm is 1750, and the pulley dia. is 4.5", so---2061 foot per minute surface speed. ---and there isn't much "gentle caressing" about it. When I was heavy into building hotrods, all of my flame cut brackets were smoothed out on that monster. You could press a 4" wide flame cut plate into that sucker, crossways on the belt and not bog it down with a #36 grit belt on it.

MattiJ
03-26-2017, 06:43 PM
Motor rpm is 1750, and the pulley dia. is 4.5", so---2061 foot per minute surface speed. ---and there isn't much "gentle caressing" about it. When I was heavy into building hotrods, all of my flame cut brackets were smoothed out on that monster. You could press a 4" wide flame cut plate into that sucker, crossways on the belt and not bog it down with a #36 grit belt on it.

Sorry, couldn't resist after I got good chuckle from Cijuanni's description. ;)

2000 foot per minute IS gentle caressing by todays standards. Try 36 grit Cubitron II belts on a 4kW grinder at 7500fpm and you'll see what I mean.
Probably 15-fold increase in material removal speed compared to standard 36 grit AlO-belt run at 2000fpm.

brian Rupnow
03-26-2017, 08:39 PM
I suppose it all depends on what your needs are and what your budget is. My belt sander works great for what I do. My budget was about $75 for the used motor, the pulleys and the bearings. Only a fool builds machinery way beyond what they ever need or can afford.

MillNut
03-27-2017, 11:26 AM
Sorry for the delay in replying![emoji848] For some reason the thread is not showing up in my feed on Tapatalk.[emoji33]

The vertical column is 3/4" 6061-T6. Approximately 22" tall by 4" wide. I squared up both sides and one face. Not sure if I will square up other face as that side will see all the abrasive.

The adjuster is only for tension. I made the upper pulley and put 2 deg of crown on it. There is a flat in the center of the pulley which may have to go away. There is no crown on the lower pulley. I made the groove 1 belt thickness deep. Hopefully it is enough to keep the belt in place. I may make a new upper pulley with the same groove design as the lower, the new one would be steel of course.

The platen is 1/2" thick mild steel. I still need to machine an arc in the mast so the platen can rotate down 45 deg because you just never know right? [emoji851] The belt backer is 1/2" mild steel as well( not pictured).

Once I have it wired up and running I will make some sort of guard for it. The design intent is to radius the top and bottom of the mast- should make for a fun sheet metal project.[emoji12] Once the bugs are worked out I will have the steel parts Black Ox'd and maybe the aluminum anodized. Gotta look good while getting dirty!.[emoji1]

I will post more as I progress with it. It is way over kill for a belt grinder, but my experience with tooling and fixtures has proven many times A) Make it adjustable and B) Make it robust unless you want to make it again. We have BurrKings here at work as well as these really robust 1" belt grinders. I have always wanted one like our 1" but didn't like the price. The Kalamazoo's are decent but not as well built as this one at work. So when you are cheap and have free time....


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MillNut
03-27-2017, 11:38 AM
Here are a couple of pics of the "Gemco" grinders which were the inspiration for what I designed. I prefer them to the Burr Kings. The BKs take more metal faster but the Gemcos have better feel. Just my weird preference.[emoji1] The motor is down low so the grinder has to go on a stand. I am cramped for space so I decided to move the motor up.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170327/305e96561f4f5202ece08501688733d0.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170327/475749e0966762f130d97e00162dd839.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170327/fa81c6ce6a97867a8ebb40aefe04939c.jpg

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Black Forest
03-28-2017, 02:00 AM
This is a simple belt grinder I built. I have built several belt grinders in the 2" x 72" category. Previous builds used a swing arm type belt tension as in the KMG type. I didn't really like it. So on this one I used a telescoping tension arm. It only takes a few seconds to change a belt. I built all the wheels. The big drive wheel is made from steel and I knurled the surface to give a little more traction to the belt. The plan has always been to mount a VFD to vary the belt speed but haven't done that yet. This arrangement is good for course belts. If memory serves me right it has just over 4500 SFM. I am more of a fabricator than a machinist so it serves me well. I don't think this design would scale well to a 6" belt. The axles would need to be supported on both ends.

http://i853.photobucket.com/albums/ab91/burnandreturn/20170328_070330%20copy%20copy%20copy_zpshy15yvpx.j pg (http://s853.photobucket.com/user/burnandreturn/media/20170328_070330%20copy%20copy%20copy_zpshy15yvpx.j pg.html)
http://i853.photobucket.com/albums/ab91/burnandreturn/20170328_070453%20copy%20copy1%20copy1_zpsvmhrjvwz .jpg (http://s853.photobucket.com/user/burnandreturn/media/20170328_070453%20copy%20copy1%20copy1_zpsvmhrjvwz .jpg.html)
http://i853.photobucket.com/albums/ab91/burnandreturn/20170328_070425%20copy%20copy_zpsbnu1usxs.jpg (http://s853.photobucket.com/user/burnandreturn/media/20170328_070425%20copy%20copy_zpsbnu1usxs.jpg.html )
http://i853.photobucket.com/albums/ab91/burnandreturn/20170328_070415%20copy%20copy1_zps0xjkeu6k.jpg (http://s853.photobucket.com/user/burnandreturn/media/20170328_070415%20copy%20copy1_zps0xjkeu6k.jpg.htm l)

Danl
03-28-2017, 02:36 PM
Here you can buy some parts for your DIY belt grinder build: http://www.texasknife.com/vcom/index.php?cPath=659_775

Dan L

MillNut
05-07-2017, 05:06 PM
Finally finished mine belt grinder enough to make use of it. I still need to make a belt guard for the top pulley and a proper base for it but it is up and running.[emoji1]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170507/d8ad7751b482c7003c7f2c8840d564d2.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170507/91ed587a920d1b22e4ae67844aed329d.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170507/5aebd35a53ab5d75f55b7baf9502d3cf.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170507/574dc2c5e979bc14994e382a1707d174.jpg


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QSIMDO
05-07-2017, 11:28 PM
I may have to flatter you by swiping your tensioner design.
That's slick.
I came up with the same solution to tightening the drive wheel grub screws too!

MillNut
05-07-2017, 11:41 PM
Thanks for the compliment! Glad I could help!.[emoji41]

Here is a drawing of the tension sled and the adjust bolt and nut. The "nut" on the bottom of the tension screw bottoms out in the thumb wheel. The shoulder is about 0.005" longer than the mounting block. To adjust the belt I only have to loosen the belt shaft bolt enough for the sled to move up and down.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170508/0882eff9e9326944945c1f458bb61d97.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170508/d4986673ce9d78f84d0d7a66b597b320.jpg


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MillNut
05-08-2017, 12:05 AM
One other note, the bore for the lock nut was originally round. The alignment was a little off between the heights of the sled and the mounting block causing the adjuster to bind. I "slotted" the bore about 0.005" each side of center so the nut would "float" in the height direction. That solved the binding issue.


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QSIMDO
05-08-2017, 11:05 AM
Cool, thanks!