NOW I'M PO'd!!!!!!

[Arbo]

I removed the clamps this evening after having them on my new leather flat belt for 48 hours. I put three copper rivits in it, after using the Goop product. I ran the SOB for 20 minutes this evening, and it is starting to come undone already. Somebody talk to me about the procedure for pulling the spindle, and putting a serpentine belt on. This crap just ain't flippin workin!!!!

[Milacron of PM]

Why are you using leather ? There are neoprene/rubber type laminated flat belts that when you do a scarf joint and use appropriate adhesive, will never come apart...the joint will be as strong as the material itself. I've done this on woodworking pin routers where the spindle speed was 20,000 RPM.

[Arbo]

OK, where do I get the stuff? Do you have it D? I need it 1" wide, and 52.75" long. If you have the stuff on inventory with the proper adhesive, I would be HAPPY to purchase some from you. Let me know please. I love this lathe, but am not having any kind of luck but bad with the belts. And...I mentioned in an earlier post, I ain't crazy about pulling the spindle out of a lathe that probably hasn't seen 20 hours of use in it's 60 year life.

[SJorgensen]

I pulled my spindle and I was glad that I did. It gave me a chance to clean all the oil passages and check the condition of the oil wicks. Mine is a SB9 and there were a couple of tapered pins but the rest was pretty straight forward except for the spring loaded oil wicks.

[Milacron of PM]

Well, it's been over a decade now since I've done it, but there was a belting supply house in Greensboro, NC where I got the belt material and the adhesive. They also carried bandsaw tire material, such that you could splice the tire rubber instead of the usual process of stretching already spliced rubber over the wheel...standard process is pretty difficult since you need to use contact type cement, so the splicing in place was much easier and held better too. Had a Northfield 30 inch woodworking bandsaw with aluminum wheels that kept throwing the tires off until I used their material and adhesive.

I can't remember the name of the place but I would think McMaster Carr might have some of the same material.

[Kansas_Farmer]

What's wrong with a catgut splice? I've built alot of flat belts 8"-10" wide that I can put 60-80 Hp through without the splice pulling apart. (25-85hp Nichols and Sheppard steamer belted into a dyno)

Here's a belt I put back together pulling 45 HP.

Here

[CCWKen]

I've got a Clipper Belt Lacer but I'm not sure how much 1" I have left. I think I may be out of the link pins too. It's been a while since I did a belt and looked in the cabinet.

I'll take a look in the morning. If there's enough 1", It's got your name on it. I don't have any of the glue--You'll have to get that. I mostly use 1 1/4" on my stuff (old cars).

[Kansas_Farmer]

I can send ya some too, just let me know what you need and where to send it.

[franco]

Arbo

Have you considered the metal hinged joint type of belt fastener? These are very quick to install, require no cement, and the belt can be used straight away. It can be broken and removed at any time just by removing the hinge pin. If the belt stretches, the hinge section can be cut off one end of the belt, the belt shortened, and another hinge section applied to the cut end. For small leather belts they are quite satisfactory. I have come across and used two types. Both types come in fairly long lengths, about a foot, and you cut off two sections the width of your belt. These form the two halves of the hinge. The heavier pressed steel Bristol type is attached to the belt ends using a hammer to push the integral staples through the belt.

The lighter wire staple type needs a special tool - which can be made if one can't be borrowed - to support the staples as they are pushed into the belting.

The correct type of hinge pin is supplied with each type, and also requires cutting to length.

The pressed steel type make a distinct click each time the hinge hits a pulley, which some people find annoying, though I never did. The wire staple ones which I am now using are much quieter.

I'm on, I think, my fourth leather belt since we bought the lathe in 1948, so they last O.K.

Regards, franco.

[lunkenheimer]

Don-
Would that place be McLeod Belting Co? Their number is 336-299-7216. Only 'belting' supplier in the yellow pages.

[gundog]

I have a belt for a SB 10K I think it is the same deminsion as the SB 9". I had 2 made they cost me $50 at a local conveyor belt place they have a metal lace with a pin I will make you a good deal on one that has never been used. With this type of belt you won't need to take your machine apart. I recently bought a set of V belt pulleys and will not be useing this extra belt. If you are interested e-mail me I will split the cost of the 2 belts I bought and let one go for $25.
Mike

[kap pullen]

This place has everything you'll ever need in belting.

http://www.baltimorebelting.com/

kap

[Paul Alciatore]

Removing the SB9 spindle:

1. Loosen the split ring ("Takeup Nut") at left end of spindle (single screw) and unscrew it.

2. Remove the washer and thrust bearing behind the split ring. It's a good idea to lay out the parts on some clean paper on the bench in the exact order they are removed. This will help later with reassembly.

3. Remove the safety guards over the gears. Install the Thread Proptector on the spindle if it's not there already. Also place some wood over the ways in case the spindle drops there. But you should be able to easily catch it. It does not go flying.

4. At this point the spindle will be held in place by friction between it and the Bull Gear. Place a piece of soft wood (pine?) over the left end of the spindle and gently tap on it to break the Bull Gear free. If excessive force is needed, don't do it. Stop tapping and rig a fixture to apply steady and well CENTERED pressure to the left end of the spindle. I would use a couple of pieces of wood with a hole drilled in one for the right end of the spindle to pass through. One wood piece on the left end of the spindle and the other, with the spindle hole, on the right side of the headstock casting. Draw the two together with long screws on clamps.

The spindle should move slowly toward the tailstock.

5. If I recall correctly, there's a key for the Bull Gear. Don't let it get lost.

6. After it is completely loose, remove the spindle.

7. Carefully remove and inspect the oilers. This is important. Remove them in a manner that allows you to see if the springs were running against the spindle - or were closs to that condition. There should be about 1/4" of felt sticking out from the end of the spring.

DONE. It's apart. Inspect everything as it has likely been running for 20 to 50 years. LeBlond can still supply parts.

To reassemble, reverse the above steps. Be sure everything is cleaned and oiled or greased to allow easy disassembly in another 40 or 50 years. The split ring/nut removed in step one is the adjustment for axial play. It needs to be properly tightened to eliminate all but a few tenths of play but not enough to cause drag. Then tighten the locking screw.

Recheck the axial play after an hour or so of use.

It really isn't that hard or tricky.

Paul A.

[Alistair Hosie]

I once had a small tyzak lathe designed for a flat belt which came without a belt.I tried everything till I nearly cried to glue the belt.
It seems the very tight arc the belt goes through seems to pull it apart.
I would suggest you buy a belt pull the thing apart and fit a new belt end of story as this will give you peace of mind for years to come.
good luck Alistair p s if you decide to go down the route of making one, I have very clear instructions on my lathe for this if you want I can email a set to you to download regards. Alistair

[Milacron of PM]

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Would that place be McLeod Belting Co? Their number is 336-299-7216. Only 'belting' supplier in the yellow pages</font>

Yep, that was the place...nice folks too.