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JoeLee
04-16-2019, 12:22 PM
Are bearing pullers like this a death kiss for bearings??

It looks like they grab onto the internal ball groove by expanding. Depending on how much force you need to hold and pull the bearing, I can't see it doing the ball groove any good. If your replacing the bearing, not an issue, if your removing it to clean and re-pack it it could be.

JL...............



https://www.skf.com/binary/21-262574/Campaign-banner-TMIC-TMIP.jpg

JoeLee
04-16-2019, 12:37 PM
I'm trying to find something or come up with a way to pull this armature bearing without pulling through the balls. I have several pullers that will do the job, a couple of the split pullers that go behind the bearing but all pull through the balls as they grab the outer race.
I was wondering if there is some type of split puller that will contact the inner race rather than the outer race. On this armature there is slightly less than 1/4" between the back of the bearing race and the fins on the armature.

https://i.postimg.cc/1fNvBLCg/IMG-20190416-085336.jpg (https://postimg.cc/1fNvBLCg)


I was thinking something like this style. I came up with a vision in my mind of making something on this order and then I found this, $200 ?? not sure if it will fit behind the bearing or if it will even work.

https://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/img/large/otc/5051_2.jpg

JL...............

Mark Rand
04-16-2019, 12:38 PM
They look to be a good idea for removing the outer ring of angular contact/taper bearings after removing the shaft and the inner ring.

JoeLee
04-16-2019, 12:48 PM
Yes, but in my situation where there is 3" of shaft in the way they won't work. I was just curious about those and then decided to add my armature bearing to the post.

JL................

LKeithR
04-16-2019, 01:19 PM
Can you not use a bearing splitter?

https://www.otctools.com/products/bearing-splitter-1

JoeLee
04-16-2019, 01:24 PM
Can you not use a bearing splitter?

https://www.otctools.com/products/bearing-splitter-1I have one of those but it contacts the outer race. Im thinking of something that will pull against the inner race.

JL......

mattthemuppet
04-16-2019, 02:13 PM
bearing removal will almost always damage the bearing to some extent. If you're removing it, you're replacing it. If you want to clean and repack the bearing, you'll have to do it in place. If it feels a little rough, repack. If it feels notchy, replace. If it's easy to get to and no drama if it fails, repack. If it's a PITA to get to and something will blow up, replace. Bearings are super cheap for the most part.

old mart
04-16-2019, 02:16 PM
You remove the old bearings and fit new ones, if you are not a cowboy, that is.

CCWKen
04-16-2019, 02:18 PM
That bearing shouldn't be on that tight unless there's a burr. Sand the rust off the shaft and file any burs. Then use your puller.

The pullers in your first post are for pulling by the ID. They also require space behind the bearing. The small flange fits behind the bearing ID then it's expanded. Those are typically used on pilot bearings or bearings stuck in a housing when only the ID is accessible.

rmcphearson
04-16-2019, 02:45 PM
Joe, can you (or anyone here) post a link to the source of your first photo? I've never seen an internal puller quite like the one shown on the right hand side of that photo.
-Roland

MattiJ
04-16-2019, 03:22 PM
Joe, can you (or anyone here) post a link to the source of your first photo? I've never seen an internal puller quite like the one shown on the right hand side of that photo.
-Roland

SKF TMIC and SKF TMIP

prepare for sticker shock:
https://www.amazon.com/SKF-Skf-Tmip-7-28/dp/B01CKI9Y4M

garagemark
04-16-2019, 04:34 PM
how about a little well placed heat to the inner race? Not enough to do damage, but enough so your outside puller gets a some help.

Disregard if you have plastic shields.

JoeLee
04-16-2019, 05:46 PM
Joe, can you (or anyone here) post a link to the source of your first photo? I've never seen an internal puller quite like the one shown on the right hand side of that photo.
-Roland https://www.google.com/search?q=bearing+pullers&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjYjLqYy9XhAhWmT98KHZaRAG4Q_AUIDygC&biw=1536&bih=702

About the third row down.

JL...............

JoeLee
04-16-2019, 05:47 PM
SKF TMIC and SKF TMIP

prepare for sticker shock:
https://www.amazon.com/SKF-Skf-Tmip-7-28/dp/B01CKI9Y4M I have slide hammers. That would be a last resort to removing a bearing that I wanted to clean and put back in place.

JL..............

Mcgyver
04-16-2019, 05:52 PM
don't be a cowboy.....get new bearings

Glug
04-16-2019, 06:38 PM
Motor bearings are cheap. Many armature bearings are "one and done" installs. You are expected to sacrifice the bearing during removal. Sometimes the question is how to get the remaining inner race off, and that alone can be challenging.

There are armature bearing pullers that work on the inner race, many diy. One method involves cutting a short piece of rectangular tube into a C. The opening of the C is sized to your specific situation. A nut and threaded rod or bolt are used to push on the shaft through a hole in the C.

https://www.google.com/search?q=diy+armature+bearing+puller&hl=en&pws=0&gbv=1&prmd=ivns&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjzpdXb1NXhAhVnrlQKHQxkCnAQ_AUIBQ

cameron
04-16-2019, 07:49 PM
If the bearing is a cheap one and you've pulled it by the outer race, or with a puller that works on the raceway, replace it.

If the bearing is an expensive one, well that's probably a bearing that you really don't want to fail in service, so replace it.

J Tiers
04-16-2019, 10:24 PM
So... what is the failure/damage mode for a bearing that you remove?

Generally the damage would be brinnelling the bearing, causing the races to be permanently indented by applying force to the race that is NOT stuck. And that has to be "enough" force.

The bearing itself will have a static force limit, the most force it will take when not turning. If you do not exceed that force when pulling the bearing, then it does not really matter if you apply the force to the not-tight race, you will not have done any damage.

If you begin whaling on it with a 5lb hammer, well, you do not know the forces, and you probably will have exceeded the limit. But a steady push or pull below the limit will not be a problem. that should not cause the spenfing of large money to replace bearings that you are now frightened of.

A properly designed piece of equipment will have means for removing the bearings without damage. Several lathe types require removing the spindle to replace the drive belt. It could get rather expensive if the bearing needed to be replaced every time you did that. But luckily, that replacement is not required.

dave_r
04-17-2019, 03:59 AM
I would try to repack it with grease in-place, say, using a needle attachment on a grease gun or by hand, depending on the source of grease.

JoeLee
04-17-2019, 07:49 AM
I would try to repack it with grease in-place, say, using a needle attachment on a grease gun or by hand, depending on the source of grease.Yes, this is what I did with this one bearing. Took the rubber seal off and packed it with grease. I would liked to have removed it so I could wash it out but that's the way it goes.
When it goes I'll replace it. This one is in the motor, easy to R&R.

JL............

mattthemuppet
04-17-2019, 12:47 PM
I cleaned and repacked the spindle and pulley bearings on my Walker Turner DP, which I think are largely unobtanium. Removed the seals, washed out with WD40, air dried and repacked with decent quality grease. All done in place as the pulley bearings at least are next to impossible to remove plus I didn't want to damage them. So you can clean out the old grease quite easily without removing the bearings.