PDA

View Full Version : Happy day ! Shop is now plumbed for compressed air !



BCRider
04-18-2019, 09:56 PM
So it's been a long 10 days. But as I sit typing this new thread I'm waiting to see how slow or not the pressure gauge on the compressor drops due to any leaks in the system. It's been an hour now and I just looked before sitting down to this message and I see the pressure has dropped a bit. But perhaps it's due to temperature or it may be a weeping in a fitting or some other thing. Next up is the soapy water and see if I can find anything obvious.

It all started 10 days ago. It was like I was trying to build a Millenium Falcon out of LEGO without instructions and having to make up my own shopping list of bits and pieces to do all the plumbing.

You know how during a project you hit a brick wall because you have to run out and buy some piece or three to carry on? Well, that's been me this past 10 days doing pretty much a trip a day.

But it's done now. I've got a 1/2" copper run for the 90 psi run over to the welding area where there's a regulator to drop down to 75 for the new plasma cutter. And there's a "T" off the main run near the compressor that goes to a second regulator for the low pressure circuit that goes to the machines and to the 50 foot retract reel by the door to the driveway. The PEX side of things won't ever be used at more than around 45 to 50 psi for filling tires. 90% of the time it'll sit at around 25psi for blowing off the machines and such.

The lathe and shaper along with the firearms cleaning area share one 12 ft hose. The mill, drill press and vise have another 10 ft tail. And there's a third quick connect in the corner of the "L shaped bench which I'll use with a further 8 ft hose.

And if I need low pressure at the welding area I can turn down the high pressure plasma cutter reg and run a small hose off that fitting.

It's sure going to be a lot nicer than what I was doing before. A smaller cheap compressor in the corner with a 50 ft reel of 1/4" hose that I just dragged all over the shop. Constantly in the way and really annoying.

After all the "stuff" is back up on the shelf and out of the way so the shop doesn't look like the inside of a sardine can I'll post up some pictures.

chipmaker4130
04-18-2019, 10:13 PM
If you ran the compressor to 'top it off', then naturally the pressure will drop during cooling. On my 80 gal comp. tank, I think it drops 5 or 6 psi from that and I only have a single-stage running at 125psi. Did you put a shut off valve right off the tank? You really need one to facilitate R&R of quick couplers, plumbing changes, etc. and if you then add a gauge on the other side leaks show up really fast. (You can just 'plug in' a gauge to one of your quick-connects).

Anyway, congrats on getting it done. No more hose tangles or trips on the floor, eh?

BCRider
04-18-2019, 10:30 PM
More than once I had a near Flying Wallenda moment when my feet tangled the hose over the years. So yeah, I won't miss THAT nostalgia.... :D

The compressor is tucked into a cabinet area under the main bench (the only place I really had room) so it needs to have a flexible tail to allow me to hook it up then move it into place and vice versa in case of any work to be done on it. So the compressor has a 3/8" quick connect fitting and the 6 ft of 1/2" hose is my "shut off valve".

I've definitely got a slow leak or two somewhere. It cycled the motor after about an hour. I'm wondering if the various quick connects, which are all new, might be weeping a touch. Or maybe the rotating seals on the retractable hose reel at the door. Or if the regulators themselves or the water traps might be leaking a touch. Next up after some dinner.... nah.... next up after a good night's sleep is running around with the bottle of soapy water and see if I can find the problems.

If it's the fittings or the end drains in the condensate traps it'll be yet another trip for more bits and pieces. Any bets on an even dozen trips for "extras" before this is all done? Like I don't even count the initial shopping trip where I THOUGHT I got it all. OK... I'm more realistic than that... Where I thought I got most of it? OK, let's go with that..... But I sure didn't expect the roughly 8 or 9 trips for "just two more bits" of this or that.

After the next compressor cycle I'll turn off the low pressure side and see if the high pressure copper only run holds a steady pressure. That'll at least split the problem source in half.

CCWKen
04-19-2019, 12:57 AM
And I've been going the other way. :D I just bought my second 2 gallon Fortress air compressor for the lathe room. I've been running the compressors when I need to for mist and blowing at the mill and now the lathe. I did this because the compressors are quiet and I don't have to run the "Big Guy" for just the small amount of air needed for misting. I can also run the one by the mill for the metal band saw mister.

BCRider
04-19-2019, 01:54 AM
Ken, small more quiet compressors at each machine... or maybe one or two on easily rolled around casters?.... seems like a great idea too. And if I didn't just get the plasma cutter I'd be all over that as an option. But the new plasma cutter needs more than those little guys can deliver....

.... plus I was gifted this big honkin' 25 gallon two cylinder 3HP compressor out of the blue. So I went with the single point source just because it came free. Though little did I realize that the freaking distribution setup would cost me darn near $500 if I were to add up all the bills for bits of this and that.... And not just the cost of the copper and PEX. I had to buy all those darn adapters and other fittings. Plus the hoses and quick connects since I had a mixed bag of the ones that take the longer ends and those which take the shorter ends. Had to toss a few and replace them to make the setup compatible.

Update on the wait for the compressor to cycle. I'm thinking the seals on the various quick connects and perhaps the two water filter bowls and regulators are taking a set from the pressure. The comp cycled twice after roughly 1hr leakdowns to the switch on point and than the third time it went down from 115'ish to 100 and it's held steady at 100 for the past hour and a half. I'm keeping my fingers crossed but it appears that I may be able to skip the soapy water work tomorrow and focus on putting my "stuff" away.

And *gasp* might just put some of it in the back of the truck to go to the dump or some charity or other. Hell, I found a large Rubbermaid tote full of bicycle fenders from back when I was serious about weather protection for the bikes because I cycled to work daily in all weather short of serious ice. Being retired I can pick and choose and can't recall the last time I rode out into the world in the rain... at least not on purpose... :)

MichaelP
04-19-2019, 04:33 AM
I installed a motorized ball valve right after the compressor to shut off the piping network when I'm not working in the shop. No more worries about small leaks.

Arcane
04-19-2019, 07:49 AM
I installed a motorized ball valve right after the compressor to shut off the piping network when I'm not working in the shop. No more worries about small leaks.

That's slick!

JoeLee
04-19-2019, 09:11 AM
Hey BC, don't feel bad about the small leaks, you may never find them.
I have a slow leak somewhere in my air system that I haven't been able to find and I've checked every fitting in the entire system.

It's not at my compressor or my cooling / moisture collection coils as I can shut the valve off at the end of this moisture trap and that part of the system won't loose any pressure and I've let it sit for several days and no drop.

https://i.postimg.cc/v1j9PBd9/Image001.jpg (https://postimg.cc/v1j9PBd9)


I have several regulators and drop fittings round the shop. I have a couple regulator / moisture traps that I plug in where needed. I've tested every one of them with soapy water and can't find any leaks at any of the joints or couplers. I've even gone as far un-bolting the permanently mounted ones from the wall and sealing them up in a plastic bag, leaving them for a few days to see if the bag shows any sign of inflation and nothing.

My shop is plumbed with 1/2" copper. The only thing I can figure is there is a small pin hole perhaps in one of the solder joints buried in the ceiling or wall and I ain't ripping any of that apart to look.
I now just turn the compressor off when I don't need any air for anything. I used to leave it on all the time but I've already replaced the compressor switch twice in the last 15 years or so due to excessive needless running.

JL................

wdtom44
04-19-2019, 09:16 AM
Some folks don't recommend blowing chips off of machine tools as the chips can end up where you don't want them and can't see or get them, a brush is recommended. Something I try and do is shut off the air compressor when I am done with the shop. Suppose some line blew or the pressure switch failed or some such. I don't want it running for hours and hours when I am not there. Unlikely probably, but that's what I do.

JoeLee
04-19-2019, 10:23 AM
Some folks don't recommend blowing chips off of machine tools as the chips can end up where you don't want them and can't see or get them, a brush is recommended. Something I try and do is shut off the air compressor when I am done with the shop. Suppose some line blew or the pressure switch failed or some such. I don't want it running for hours and hours when I am not there. Unlikely probably, but that's what I do. I've never blown chips off any of my machines. All that does is scatter them everywhere where they normally wouldn't end up. I usually brush them off into the chip pan (lathe) of into a dust pan (mill) then finish up with the shop vac.
Grinders, always vacuumed off.

My exact reason for shutting off the air compressor when I'm not in the shop.

JL...............

ironmonger
04-19-2019, 11:20 AM
https://i.postimg.cc/v1j9PBd9/Image001.jpg (https://postimg.cc/v1j9PBd9)


JL................

I'm not speaking to the problem of the leaks, only pointing out that a serpentine cooling coil as you have mounted it, will trap water at the bottom of each of the loops.The coil should be mounted horizontally to allow free passage of the condensed water.
The first thing they teach us in plumbing school is (paraphrased) that 'bleep' runs downhill.
BTW, any leak can be found, it's only a matter of persistence...

Bob La Londe
04-19-2019, 12:02 PM
Nice idea with the coil. Sort of halfway to a refrigeration type dryer. LOL. Blow a fan through it and you will improve its efficiency. Yes, it needs to be turned sideways or it will trap moisture until it becomes the source of a problem instead of a solution. I'd put a filter separator on both sides of it and put air in at the bottom so moisture will tend to flow back upstream but down hill into a drain canister. Still a very nice idea.

I quit chasing small micro leaks. I just turn off my compressor and close the shop distribution valve everyday as part of my routine. I also crack the valves in my filter separators at both sides of my refrigeration drier so they get blow clean of any trapped moisture. This also make certain the separator inside the drier opens to drain if there is any moisture in it. That drain into a plastic coffee can under the drier. Most of the year the can never over flows, but in late July, August and sometimes September I have to empty the coffee can every couple weeks.

BCRider
04-19-2019, 12:35 PM
I thought last night that the leak might be a slow one when the tank held pressure for a couple of hours. But the whole system went to zero overnight. So it may not be all that small a leak. OR.... given that it did hold for a while then went down it might even be the quick connect that I've got to connect the compressor to the system. I've known the smaller 1/4" ones to leak badly if pulled sideways by much at all. So soapy water testing will be conducted to test it.

The water trap for the low pressure side is also an annoying one. I guess it's self draining or something since it has to be pulled down against the spring and pressure applied before it will seal. At least the other one which is harder to reach uses a sort of plastic petcock.

I agree on a lot of the aspects of how to and where to NOT use air. I was and still am very much a believer in NOT using air in those and other cases. But as I've been using a combination of air and brushing I've found that the techniques do in fact complement each other very nicely. The air from the old small setup and long hose pulled around the shop won't be used for cleaning any of the machines for all the reasons given. But darn is it nice for other things. Like the air gun with the needle for clearing chips out of blind holes. Or just cleaning threaded holes in general. Or small low pressure puffs to clear the swarf around the end mill away while running where a brush simple gets chewed to bits. Clearing the chips out of a bored hole to let me get a better measurement knowing it's free of chips. Stuff like that. And low pressure to boot. I'll be using it at around 20 to 25 psi for general use where air is better than brushing for any number of reasons.

Doc Nickel
04-19-2019, 02:42 PM
Last summer/fall I plumbed my entire shop- finally!- using three of those Rapidair kits, with the "PEX-Al-PEX" tubing.

I moved the 60 gallon compressor out to an attached side shed, plumbed in two different water separators (one's just a separator/filter, the other's a separator/filer with a regulator) and connected it to the 3/4" PAP tubing there:

https://docsmachine.com/projectpics/2018/shopair79.jpg

That runs overhead into the Machine Room, where it's tapped off for three drops, each 1/2" since in that room, it'll mainly just be used for blowing off parts and possibly eventually a tool changer. Two of the drops are the standard aluminum block that comes with the Rapidair kit...

https://docsmachine.com/projectpics/2018/shopair35.jpg

... While the third is a custom-made bulkhead fitting mounted at my workbench:

https://docsmachine.com/projectpics/2018/shopair56.jpg

The 3/4" continues on to the main car bays of the shop, where I have four more 3/4" drops, two singles...

https://docsmachine.com/projectpics/2018/shopair14.jpg

...And two, up front by the car and man doors, with double connections:

https://docsmachine.com/projectpics/2018/shopair18.jpg

All the QDs were bought brand-new for this project, and I went over every connection carefully with Windex. There's still a very slight leak, if left to it's own devices, the compressor runs roughly once a week, maybe as frequently as once every five days. I'm in there working almost all the time, so it runs at least once a day just from regular use anyway.

It's left pressurized 24/7, although there's a shutoff at the tank, and one several feet downstream in the Machine Room- that way the filters can be isolated for changing, without depressurizing everything, and the valve in the machine room is easily accessible in case something blows out in the system.

It's been a BIG help overall- no more tripping over hoses, I have blowguns located conveniently at my two most-often-used machines, the plasma cutter gets good clean dry air, and it's a lot easier to run hoses out to the apron for a project. Better still, I can now run multiple hoses out to the project, since I almost always have a collection of grinders going for the same task.

It wasn't cheap, the whole mess all told ran some $1,500, but mine is a working shop, not just a hobby, and the convenience is well worth it.

Doc.

3 Phase Lightbulb
04-19-2019, 04:01 PM
My air distribution system is all sweated copper but I have several NPT fittings at each air drop. It seems every NPT fitting on my air system leaks a tiny bit. The only joints that don't seem to leak are the sweated ones. My system will drop from 150PSI to ~30PSI in about a week.

I also have a HF refrigeration air dryer that is always inline which might leak somewhere, but I have no idea. Actually, I've also closed the main ball valve coming out of my compressor and it still drops PSI over time too so my compressor itself is not holding air 100% either.

Are compressors expected to always hold air? I expect their valves must leak some

metalmagpie
04-19-2019, 04:56 PM
My air distribution system is all sweated copper but I have several NPT fittings at each air drop. It seems every NPT fitting on my air system leaks a tiny bit. The only joints that don't seem to leak are the sweated ones. My system will drop from 150PSI to ~30PSI in about a week.

I also have a HF refrigeration air dryer that is always inline which might leak somewhere, but I have no idea. Actually, I've also closed the main ball valve coming out of my compressor and it still drops PSI over time too so my compressor itself is not holding air 100% either.

Are compressors expected to always hold air? I expect their valves must leak some

Many compressors have check valves that keep pressure from bleeding back into the pump. Check yours.

metalmagpie

alanganes
04-19-2019, 06:16 PM
I thought last night that the leak might be a slow one when the tank held pressure for a couple of hours. But the whole system went to zero overnight. So it may not be all that small a leak. OR.... given that it did hold for a while then went down it might even be the quick connect that I've got to connect the compressor to the system. I've known the smaller 1/4" ones to leak badly if pulled sideways by much at all. So soapy water testing will be conducted to test it.
.

Another way to check for slow-ish leaks on your unconnected quick connect fittings is to pull a rubber glove over each one and tape the back of it shut tightly around the pipe. Even a pretty tiny leak will show up by slowly inflating the glove over time. I've found some pretty minute leaks in stuff like this on a few occasions.

Jim Stewart
04-19-2019, 06:56 PM
Another way to check for slow-ish leaks on your unconnected quick connect fittings is to pull a rubber glove over each one and tape the back of it shut tightly around the pipe. Even a pretty tiny leak will show up by slowly inflating the glove over time. I've found some pretty minute leaks in stuff like this on a few occasions.

A condom is easier to seal around the fitting...

-js

CCWKen
04-19-2019, 07:30 PM
A condom is easier to seal around the fitting...

-js

How would you know that? Mine are too large to fit tight over a QD--Unless it's for a fire hose. :d

3 Phase Lightbulb
04-19-2019, 07:31 PM
A condom is easier to seal around the fitting...

-js

What happens if the wife finds used condoms around the shop.... You don't want that kind of trouble.... Just use rubber gloves :)

BCRider
04-19-2019, 10:17 PM
....and thus another thread spirals downhill to inyourendos and potty humor.... :D

The glove around the whole ends is a grand idea. Especially since I sort of thing that a lot of the leakage might well be due to leaking quick connects on the ends of the runs. The other inline fittings will have to rely on soapy water though.

If I could get to where it only runs due to leakage about once every three or four days I'd be ecstatic with joy. And only a weekly run due to leaking would be true bliss.

JoeLee
04-19-2019, 10:18 PM
A condom is easier to seal around the fitting...

-js the ones I use would be way too big for any air fittings !!

JL...

JoeLee
04-19-2019, 10:20 PM
I'm not speaking to the problem of the leaks, only pointing out that a serpentine cooling coil as you have mounted it, will trap water at the bottom of each of the loops.The coil should be mounted horizontally to allow free passage of the condensed water.
The first thing they teach us in plumbing school is (paraphrased) that 'bleep' runs downhill.
BTW, any leak can be found, it's only a matter of persistence... I never gave that a thought at the time I mounted those coils. whatever water ends up collecting in those coils just gets pushed right through and ends up in the water trap, never been an issue.

JL....

JoeLee
04-19-2019, 10:26 PM
Nice idea with the coil. Sort of halfway to a refrigeration type dryer. LOL. Blow a fan through it and you will improve its efficiency. Yes, it needs to be turned sideways or it will trap moisture until it becomes the source of a problem instead of a solution. I'd put a filter separator on both sides of it and put air in at the bottom so moisture will tend to flow back upstream but down hill into a drain canister. Still a very nice idea.

I quit chasing small micro leaks. I just turn off my compressor and close the shop distribution valve everyday as part of my routine. I also crack the valves in my filter separators at both sides of my refrigeration drier so they get blow clean of any trapped moisture. This also make certain the separator inside the drier opens to drain if there is any moisture in it. That drain into a plastic coffee can under the drier. Most of the year the can never over flows, but in late July, August and sometimes September I have to empty the coffee can every couple weeks.The coils we're rejects from an ac mfg. Never used.
The block wall is pretty cool even during the summer months. I could blow are against it but not through it unless I move them off the wall. putting a moisture trap before the coils wouldn't really do any good the moisture would just pass right through it when the air starts to get warm. I do drain the tank regularly.

JL....

MichaelP
04-20-2019, 01:21 AM
Here are a few photos of my compressed air setup.

The cooling loops are positioned horizontally. The air enters the cooler from the top. Each pipe is tilted, so all the accumulating water goes down, and there is a ball valve for drainage there. Then the air goes up to the main regulator (with water separator) and then branches into two long main lines leading to the main shop and garage. Those lines are also inclined and joined into another drain valve that you can see slightly in front of the upper left part of the cooling run. (This drain and the second main line were late additions, so they look accordingly. :))

Also shown are a motorized ball valve at the tank output and automatic tank water drainage valve.

Each drop inside the shop has a separate draining valve line and is fed through a small loop branching off the top of the main lines.

Frankly, I've never seen a drop of water from any drain valves beyond the cooling loop. And we regularly have high humidity outside.

https://oi966.photobucket.com/albums/ae148/MPdisp/2019-04-19%2023.34.27.jpg~original (http://s966.photobucket.com/user/MPdisp/media/2019-04-19%2023.34.27.jpg.html)
https://oi966.photobucket.com/albums/ae148/MPdisp/2019-04-19%2023.37.03.jpg~original (http://s966.photobucket.com/user/MPdisp/media/2019-04-19%2023.37.03.jpg.html)
https://oi966.photobucket.com/albums/ae148/MPdisp/2019-04-19%2023.35.48.jpg~original (http://s966.photobucket.com/user/MPdisp/media/2019-04-19%2023.35.48.jpg.html)
https://oi966.photobucket.com/albums/ae148/MPdisp/2019-04-19%2023.36.20.jpg~original (http://s966.photobucket.com/user/MPdisp/media/2019-04-19%2023.36.20.jpg.html)

true temper
04-20-2019, 01:42 AM
Years ago when I was working for wages, one Monday morning I came it the shop and a hose blew. The compressor had Been running for lord knows how long. I would like to find a switch or control to shut the motor down after running say 10 minutes continues. My big Quincy never runs that long while using it.
Does any one know of a switch or control to do what I want?

MichaelP
04-20-2019, 02:37 AM
The compressor itself can be turned down manually or by a timer. For example, you come to your shop and turn the compressor on through a timer set to 4 hours (naturally, you don't feed the compressor directly through the timer but use a powerful relay in between).

A mechanical or motorized ball valve at the tank output will prevent this problem too. The motorized valve can be put directly on timer if you don't want to rely on your memory. The plus of this approach is that you don't need to refill the tank if your lines have any leaks (and most of them do): as soon as the valve is turned on, you have compressed air available.

I'm not aware of any other widely available devices that can monitor and limit the motor ON time. One can be constructed, of course, but your use pattern of the compressor should be taken into consideration.

Black Forest
04-20-2019, 10:06 AM
Years ago when I was working for wages, one Monday morning I came it the shop and a hose blew. The compressor had Been running for lord knows how long. I would like to find a switch or control to shut the motor down after running say 10 minutes continues. My big Quincy never runs that long while using it.
Does any one know of a switch or control to do what I want?

A pressure sensor with either NC or NO output to a PLC type relay. You figure how long your compressor would run until worst case use and set the countdown time in the PLC relay for longer than that time. So if the compressor is continuously running then the relay would open and disconnect the power to the compressor.

alanganes
04-20-2019, 10:50 AM
I saw a guy's shop where he had it set up such that the power to the compressor went on and off with the lights in the shop. Just a contactor with a 110V coil that was on the same circuit as the lights. That way he figured he could not forget to shut down power to the compressor so long as he turned the lights out. I plan to do that in my shop once I do the air line plumbing.

3 Phase Lightbulb
04-20-2019, 11:13 AM
My 220v 50A powered compressor didn't come with a switch other than the pressure switch so I used to have to flip the dedicated 50A breaker when I wanted to turn on/off my compressor. I added an on/off switch that interrupts the pressure switch from energizing the main switch along with an on/off switch for the refrigeration air dryer.

Whenever I want to use my shop air, I just turn on both switches and turn them off when I'm done.

I still need to install an automatic drain. I'm thinking I'll have the automatic drain open for ~2-3 seconds every couple of minutes when the power switch is on.

http://www.bbssystem.com/pictures/shop_compressor1.jpg

http://www.bbssystem.com/pictures/shop_compressor2.jpg

BCRider
04-20-2019, 12:07 PM
Years ago when I was working for wages, one Monday morning I came it the shop and a hose blew. The compressor had Been running for lord knows how long. I would like to find a switch or control to shut the motor down after running say 10 minutes continues. My big Quincy never runs that long while using it.
Does any one know of a switch or control to do what I want?

TT, another option would be to run a 110v control side contactor for the compressor power off one of the regular lighting circuits. No lights to work in the shop = no risk of compressor running madly if a line did blow. I think I like this idea better than a run time trip because if you chose to use something like a sand blaster that is very air hungry you might find the compressor tripping out during use. Not a big deal, just reset it. But basically we don't need the air when the lights are not on, right?

Micheal, that's a really sweet condenser loop.

Having ran my small compressors in the home shop scenario now for a few years I've also yet to find any water coming out of the tank drain. I suspect that for casual use and for mostly small needs that there just isn't the volume of flow that would produce any water.

dave_r
04-20-2019, 04:42 PM
It depends on conditions where you are. I don't use my 80 gal very often, and while this spring there hasn't been much water being vented, last year there was both more and more often that came out.

I have a post-style drain, with cable running up the side, so I can walk by and pull the cable to drain the water. I got it for my new tank, after not heeding my dad's advice/warning to regularly drain water from the previous tank, and then getting pinholes in the bottom of the tank.

And over the winter, there was enough water in there to free and cause the vent to partially stick open, so I think I need to change it up a bit to add some extra tubing to it, so any water sits in the tubing, and I can more readily thaw it out there if necessary (and so water sits in the tubing instead of the bottom of the tank).

Paul Alciatore
04-20-2019, 05:00 PM
Hear, hear! That coil is guaranteeing that moisture will be present in the air that exits it.

Every inch of a condensing coil should drain BACKWARDS, toward the compressor and into a collection jar at the inlet to the coil.




I'm not speaking to the problem of the leaks, only pointing out that a serpentine cooling coil as you have mounted it, will trap water at the bottom of each of the loops.The coil should be mounted horizontally to allow free passage of the condensed water.
The first thing they teach us in plumbing school is (paraphrased) that 'bleep' runs downhill.
BTW, any leak can be found, it's only a matter of persistence...

Doc Nickel
04-21-2019, 02:32 AM
I thought about different ways to add some sort of blowout protection circuit to a compressor system, but really, there's not much "off the shelf" that would work. You'd need to customize something to fit your particular requirements- how long it cycles, even under heavy use, how low the line pressure is allowed to drop, etc.

But, in the end I didn't think it was worth worrying about too much. First, I'm in the shop nearly every day, and most times, most of the day. If I plan on being gone for more than a day, I can just slap the quarter-turn valve at the tank and call it good. (Or, for that matter, hit the electrical cutoff box right there next to the ball valve.)

And second, like most compressors, the motor on mine has a thermal cutoff- if the motor gets too hot, it shuts off and has to be reset. I don't honestly know how reliable it is, having never had occasion to use it, and it's entirely possible I could wind up with a mild, but fast leak that makes the compressor run very often but not long enough to overheat, but I figured between that and my being out there most of the time, I'm pretty well covered.

That said, I kind of like the idea of connecting it to the overhead lights.

Doc.

jdedmon91
04-23-2019, 10:33 PM
I saw a guy's shop where he had it set up such that the power to the compressor went on and off with the lights in the shop. Just a contactor with a 110V coil that was on the same circuit as the lights. That way he figured he could not forget to shut down power to the compressor so long as he turned the lights out. I plan to do that in my shop once I do the air line plumbing.

I did something similar. I use a 110v compressor mounted out side under a shelter. It is wired to an outlet that on a switch beside the shop lights. I turn the lights on and the compressor switch at
The same time. The same when I leave


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk