View Full Version : Hydraulic Filter - Locating?

11-14-2004, 08:26 PM
Does it make any difference where you locate a hydraulic filter? (Besides the return line.)

I'm building a tractor using a Peerless 2500 transaxle and an Eaton Model 11 transmission. The original filter location was under the transmission but this is lower than I want to mount it. If the tractor high centers, the filter would be the first to go. Not only that; it's hard to get to.

The filter has it's own separate mounting assembly so I can mount it anywhere. I'd like to mount it higher in the new frame. Any problem with siphoning or air entrapment if I mount it higher than the sump level?

11-14-2004, 08:56 PM
WE used to have to burp the filters on the diesel bus.. Take a piece of innertube and clamp it on the tank filler, add about five to ten pounds air.. and burp..

On the coolant.fluid.. as long as it is in the return lines it will fill and flow.. If you try to put it in the suction line, the devil of differntial pressure and suction/cavitation results once the vacuum exceeds the specific gravity resistance.. bubbles in the lines instead of fluid.. really bad..

DOn't ask me how I learned this, it is bad, almost as bad as using regular 1/4x20's on a tunnel ram hood scoop.. sucked that bad boy right into the cylinder and jammed/ruined a valve which jammed ruined a piston, which bent the crank and hairlined the journal, which really made a bad day..

Yes, air bubbles appear in a suction line with a restriction....


11-14-2004, 09:33 PM
Thanks David. This filter is fed by an auxiliary pump (charge pump) on the input shaft of the Eaton transmission. The pump draws from near the bottom of the transaxle sump and pumps to the lift controller (center open with Up/Down).

From the controller, the return line goes through the filter then back to the Eaton case. As long as the engine is running, fluid is being circulated. There must be a flow channel in the Eaton case than allows the fluid to return to the transaxle case.

When I drained the transaxle then turned it over for cleaning, returning it to upright allowed almost a 1/2 gallon of fluid to drain. So, I'm guessing there's a captive area in the Eaton case for fluid too. This may be where the filter return line dumps into the case.

Added Pics:
This is the Peerless Model 2500 drive.

This is the Eaton Model 11 transmission.

[This message has been edited by CCWKen (edited 11-14-2004).]

11-14-2004, 09:56 PM
CCW, I got just a lil more to do on my solid 3" slip roll machine, hooked to the other end is the bead roller, two pedals, the last 3/4hp dc motor.controller..

I got two or more motors, light, the nameplate says .46 rpm output.. but with a 1/8hp 3phase or sychronous motor (two types) it will drive that bead roller of yours and be light.. That'd put it somewhere around what? six inches per minute? and reliable as a rock direct drive.. whole deal weighs in at 5 pounds. Was used to push canvas through a sewing machine. I am hooking one to my 3ph tomorrow to play.. and see if what I am reading on nameplate is right.. That'd be approx 3800:1 ratio.. right? THe sych motor would run either way, just switch 220 1 phase between two legs with a switch, capacitor is there too.. it'd be the easiest for you..


[This message has been edited by ibewgypsie (edited 11-14-2004).]

11-14-2004, 10:16 PM
Yikes! Is that .46 as in 46/100 rpm. That's pretty SLOW for a roller (bead or slip). By my calcs, that's 4.3 inches per MINUTE! For a useful speed, you need to be able to do .25 to 2.0 inches per SECOND. The low end for turns and the high end for straights.

Put a guide on that thing. You'll be able to go get a cup of coffee and eat lunch before it beads a foot. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

11-14-2004, 10:19 PM
I'll run one tomorrow.. YOU Know as well as I do sewing machines work faster than that..

It is geared down further before seeing the rubber tire that grips materiel.


11-14-2004, 10:51 PM
I'm running a 12vdc compressor motor into a 100:1 gear box. I think the final rpm is about 36rpm. This seems to work good for me. I've got .5 ohm resistor that I switch in to reduce the speed. One of these days I'll go back to a controller for better speed control but for now, It works.

There's a bunch of guys using 1hp.+ motors through belt/pulley reduction but this gets into a lot of spinning stuff--Too clumbsy. I like the gear reduction box. I just need to pump a couple of horses into it. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

I'm guessing that if you can hold the bead roll with a 12" breaker bar, you don't have enough power. !!! Mine will lift me off the floor. (170lbs.) I'd like to have MORE power. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif