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jaybird
11-04-2004, 02:50 AM
I have a HF tool grinder and in a couple of days I will be putting a diamond wheel on. From what I have read kerosene is the preferred lube for the wheel. How is the kerosene applied to the wheel?

Also how should I be taking care of a diamond wheel as for cleaning?

J

Evan
11-04-2004, 02:51 AM
Wait 'til tommorow. I know one thing for sure, you won't be dressing it.

[This message has been edited by Evan (edited 11-04-2004).]

nitearc
11-04-2004, 05:14 AM
Yes, kerosene is the lube to use, I think it serves to lube as well as to clean the wheel to some degree. I apply the kero with an old toothbrush, I have done it this way for the two diamond wheels on my grinder, and I have used it this way for almost seven years now, and it performs the same way it did when the wheels were new, so I guess this is OK.
Good luck with the new wheel, they really do a great job on carbide.

Mike


<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by jaybird:
I have a HF tool grinder and in a couple of days I will be putting a diamond wheel on. From what I have read kerosene is the preferred lube for the wheel. How is the kerosene applied to the wheel?

Also how should I be taking care of a diamond wheel as for cleaning?

J</font>

wierdscience
11-04-2004, 08:58 AM
Hummm...here is what I know,don't grind steel with it,ever.
Water sol coolant at a 100:1 ratio works good and won't burst into flames.
The wheels we use at work have a stick of alumninum oxide supplied with them to "dress" the wheel.It doesn't really dress the wheel,it just removes grinding dust and a little of the silver solder to expose new diamonds,after all the wheels do wear out/down.Hope this helps.

hms50
11-04-2004, 10:48 AM
A while ago I found a bunch of diamond cut-off wheels at my favorite scrapyard. Not knowing how to "clean" them, they just sat around until the need to cut some ceramic tile came up. They not only did a super job on the tile, they improved markedly as they were used! They looked like they were clogged-up with somthing but the tile sure took it off. I know they should not be used on steel, but at $0.22/lb, I use then to cut off high speed steel bits and salvage broken drill bits. Just my experiance....

hms50

Evan
11-04-2004, 12:13 PM
I just checked with my wife. She says do not use any petroleum based product on a diamond wheel ever. It will break down the bond. Water based synthetic lubes are fine.

INTERPOLATE
11-04-2004, 12:14 PM
I have been thinking about getting a diamond wheel for my bench grinder to sharpen my carbide tools.
Whats a good one to get?? What grit for general sharpening??
Since we are on this topic, does anyone have one of those units advertised in HSM? Any good??

billr
11-04-2004, 12:44 PM
Evan;

could you ask your wife if there is available any printed or digital guide to the use and care of diamond wheels?

i recently bought a carbide grinder and am waiting for the right wheels to get here. i also have a couple of other diamond wheels that are of a really fine grit and were originally used to grind glass. i usually use plain water on them as a lubricant. i would like to know what to clean them with properly as there is a considerable investment in 3 or 4 of them.

thanks.

peace.
bill

Betterhalf
11-04-2004, 01:09 PM
Care of Diamond and Borozon Wheels I have no writen documentation as to care. My supplier does not want to put it in writting he will give me advice to pass along with his wheels if need be. There are to many different ways of bonding and making these wheels he is worried about someone using his directions on someone elses wheel and it distroying the wheels. Basic rules are coarser grit 80 for quick removal 120 to 150 grit for sharpening and small grind downs. 200 to 250 for fine work. Everyone uses different grit sizes for different jobs. I hope this answers some of the questions. If you have some others let me know and I will try and get answers for you. A quick touch with a piece of abrasive stone is all that should be needed to clean up the edge to expose more diamond or borozon for cutting. Should not have to dress wheels if you got the right shape to start with.

billr
11-04-2004, 03:03 PM
Ms. Betterhalf;

thank you.

am i correct in assuming that i would be safe using water both to lubricate and clean my wheels? it seems like i recall a posting somewhere that was discussing cleaning them with wd-40, but i may be mistaken.

i have thought about using mist [100% synthetic] some, but i don't like to grind that much, so i tend to do it one tool at a time when i need it. maybe someday i will sit down and sharpen a lot of tools.

i am confused. weirdscience discusses a stick of aluminum oxide to remove grinding dust and silver solder. perhaps i am a lot more ignorant than i had previously thought, but how do you solder a daimond?


someone please enlighten an ignorant ocuntry boy.

i would assume that an aluminum oxide wheel could be used for the same purpose.. i would not think that i would need to 'dress' a new flat wheel. [the kind that goes on a carbide grinder. i would think it would be pretty ahrd ot dress a wheel that had a 1" diamond rim that is 1/8" thick. i guess actually that surface is on the side of the wheel.

i appreciate your help. have a nice day.

peace.
bill

Betterhalf
11-04-2004, 05:13 PM
"weirdscience discusses a stick of aluminum oxide to remove grinding dust and silver solder."

weirdscience is correct about the aluminum oxide stick or just a piece of broken wheel will do. I quite often sell what is called a jointer stone (used in planer mills) for just that purpose. (1/2x3/4x4 inches)

The silver solder is softer and picked up from grinding because it is so much softern and clogs the wheel. Or in sawmill usage from the teeth soldered on to the saws.

Depending on how much grinding you are doing will depend on how much misting or coolant needed. Your coolant is just that it helps keep the work surface cool. Be carefull you can also damage your wheel if you get it to hot when grinding. (a kind of rule of thumb is if you can't hold it in your bare hand your wheel is getting to hot) of coarse this depends on your hands and the type of wheel you are using. Every manufacturer's wheel can have a different bonding agent.

I am sorry I am not really very techincal with this stuff I just know what my supplier tells me.

Thrud
11-04-2004, 05:34 PM
Brazed wheels take the heat better and last longer - this is true for both Diamond and CBN points and wheels. A Diamond or CBN wheel can only trued on your grinder using a "brake type truing device" - Norton and others sell these and they com with a 100-200 page manual on proper use. They use an abrasive wheel to true the wheel up to the machine - once this is done the wheels run dead true (ubtil you do something stupid).

Silicone based lubes are often used on points to extend the cutting perfomance on hard materials like gemstones & ceramics.

billr
11-04-2004, 05:38 PM
hello Dave.

welcome back. it is good to see your name here again.

peace.
bill

wierdscience
11-04-2004, 10:09 PM
While we are on the subject of diamond wheels,I was wondering.
Its been stated and I believe is fact not to use diamond on steel.But what about cast iron?
I have seen automotive machine mfgs recomend diamond wheels for surfacing fywheels.I have tried it at work with excellent results,but never with a new virgin wheel always a 10%life used one.I haven't seen any ill effects on the old wheels so I am wondering if there would be any concern using a new wheel on cast.

wierdscience
11-04-2004, 10:16 PM
Oh,forgot to mention,once you get your wheel trued you want to leave it on the machine so as not to need re-truing(loss of diamonds) right?
This is where having a surface grinder with interchangable arbors comes into play.You can switch back and forth without needing to re-true.

I also have at work a chuck of thick steelplate with half an old AOX wheel epoxied to it,when I need to true I just slap it on the magnet and make a few passes,works great.

[This message has been edited by wierdscience (edited 11-04-2004).]

jaybird
11-05-2004, 12:57 AM
Thanks for everyone's input

This sight is truly a wonderful learning tool. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//biggrin.gif

J

tattoomike68
11-05-2004, 01:27 AM
I was given a bunch of dressing sticks for diamond wheels from the tool and die man where I used to work and it was like a chalky, fine, pumice like crap and was in the shape of a 3/8 tool steel blank, you so much as touch the wheel and the stick would eat up very fast so you could shove 3 sticks to it and never hurt the wheel, the sticks were super soft,just enough to clean up the diamonds.

all carbide grinding done with them was sharpening block type tools for screw machines,roughers and shave tools, always dry, just a good vacuum to haul off the dust.

anyway take good care of them diamond wheels and they last and last.

Evan
11-05-2004, 04:22 AM
Wierd,

Diamond is soluble in iron when heated so it doesn't matter if steel or iron is used. BUT, cast iron has excess graphite already so it isn't going to soak up the diamond much.

Koloya
12-17-2004, 09:44 PM
1

[This message has been edited by Koloya (edited 12-18-2004).]

Evan
12-17-2004, 10:35 PM
.

[This message has been edited by Evan (edited 12-18-2004).]

gunsmith
12-18-2004, 08:31 PM
I use diamond wheels for cutting jem stones. The bonding on them is the same as for yours I'm reasonably sure. For years all I have used is distilled water and liquid dish washing soap as a surfactent. My discs stay clean with no build up to speak of. For bonding the jems to the dop stick I use a hard wax and even this will not adhear to the disc when I use this mixture of coolant and soap. Maybe the water and soap would be something for you to try?