Tool holder material question

[ZINOM]

Hey all, I'd like to make a simple turret style tool holder for my 12" Caftsman lathe and was wondering if I can use 12L14 to make it.

I guess I'm wondering if 12L14 is suitably strong enough for that application or not....I don't do much heavy cutting, and although I haven't had this particular lathe up and running much yet, it doesn't look like it's meant for heavy duty cuts.

I just wasn't sure if those deals are normaly hardened, and if so does it really need to be.

I would like to use the 1/2" lathe bits that I now use on my Smithy and the Craftsman uses 1/4" bits....common sense tells me that sometimes things are a certain sizes to limit the work that one would attempt to do with them....is this the case, could I used the 1/2" bits without trouble?

And hey, if anyone has an old turret holder that they replaced with a fancy style holder, I take donations of all types haha

Thanks for the help,

John

[Forrest Addy]

Nope. Tool holders do take a beating. 12L14 is pretty soft and you can't really harden it without carburizing.

I suggest you use 1040 or better yet 4140. These are a bit more difficult to machine but you can heat treat them with simply home shop equipment.

[ZINOM]

Thanks Forrest...okay, here's another question for you.

Given the increased difficulty in machining said alternate material, is it an acceptable technique to drill a few holes in a row and then trough out a slot with an endmill?

Or does the interrupted nature of the cut make it less desirable....I don't want to chip the crap out of my cutters, but this seems like a quick (quickER) method if it would work.....no?

Thanks again,

John

[SGW]

You might consider pre-hardened 4142 as sold by MSC www.mscdirect.com and others. It machines well, although you can't rush it.

[John Stevenson]

Jesus I must be mad but I've got to go against what forrest says.

First off let me sacrifice a chicken.

Damn blood goes everywhere.............

Anyway I have made quite a few toolholders in my time and I've always used cold rolled, off the shelf, bog standard cooking steel.
Some I have had case hardened but most i have left as is, no polishing, drawfiling, just useable holders.

Thees are used in a day to day working jobbing shop. After anything from 7 years down to 2 years old none of these, regardless of which type, hard or soft, are showing any serious amount of wear or misuse.
By serious I mean bent or anything that can cause the holder to either come loose or not hold the tool correctly, these are all wedge type quick change BTW, now over 50 off in day to day use.

None of these are on a CNC where repeatability is of prime importance but they must get more work in one year than most home shops get in a lifetime.

Ok they may get a few dings but they can be dressed with a file in seconds if needed.

Nuff said.............gotta get this blood off me...............

John S.

[JCHannum]

I also have used 12L14 or whatever else falls to hand that machines easily. I have used (Gasp) aluminum for little used or lightly stressed holders.

If they do wear after ten or so years, replacement with the Mark II version will be no problem.

[kenrinc]

Yeah I'd have to agree as I use 12L14 for everything :-) And technically the yield strength on 12L is slightly stronger than standard C1018 so I'm not sure what the advantage is specifying 1018 instead of 12L. It's so much easier to work. I guess some people say it's tough to get 12L in some areas.

I too have made one off holders in aluminum!

Ken-

[Norman Atkinson]

I have been using a Clarkson Tool and Cutter grinder which came without tooling.
In the English Mag "Engineering in Miniature" a bloke suggested tool holders in alloy or wood for a grinder.

Did it work? Surprisingly, my bit of firewood worked well enough till my all singing and dancing radius attachment came.

Anybody tell me how to remove the surface rust on it easily?

NORMAN ATKINSON

[Rich Carlstedt]

ZINOM
To answer your question about drilling holes.
Drilling is one of the most efficient ways of removing metal and as you know ,very fast, whether by endmill or drill bit. You can lessen the slotting time on low power machines by doing what you said.
Space the holes so a thin bridge is between them. Then come back and center the endmill on the bridge, and plunge down to depth.
now you can do your slotting with less load.
I use this technique a lot when doing .032" wide slots, as those endmill are very sensitive to chip load.

[ZINOM]

Thanks all for the help....Rich, I'll try your technique....sounds good!

John

[Allan Waterfall]

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by NORMAN ATKINSON:

Anybody tell me how to remove the surface rust on it easily?
NORMAN ATKINSON
</font>

Alistair usually uses a 9" angle grinder,it gives a good key for paint.

Nice to see you here Norman.

Allan

[.RC.]

Well I made my toolholder out of 4140...Mainly because it is buyable off the shelf where I am and machines beautifully plus is easily hardenable...

[madman]

Use (4140 A )IT IS IN A ANNEALED STATE AND EASIER TO MACHINE. iT CAN ALSO BE HEATTREATED WITH A TORCH. i MAKE LOTS OF REPLACEMENT DIE PIECES FROM THIS MATERIAL. aLSO CHEAPER THAN a2 MATL.

[ZINOM]

Thanks for the schooling about 4140....however, I usually get metals from Metal Express and they don't carry it.....niether does Nolan whom I've used in the past also.

A couple checks at the common online type, small-lot-friendly sources didn't seem to yield much......I'm not afraid of legwork but could someone point me in a direction for this stock?

Much thanks,

John

[kenrinc]

Actually Metal Express does carry 4140. I buy it all the time. Infact that's all they carry in the steel alloys. 4130 is much less represented.

Anyone get the "scoop" on why Metal Express bumped their internet pricing? Prices are double what I can get locally or even from Online Metals for all materials.

Ken