Bandsaws.. coolant or no... (my opinion)

[Paul Alciatore]

Originally Posted by Mark Hockett

Russ,
I totally agree with you on the coolant. Some people use the argument that they don't like the coolant dripping on their floor, it ain't that hard to wipe it up. Metal working is a messy hobby if you can't handle a few drips on the floor take up sewing or something.

Sewing is not that neat either. My grandmother made drapes for a living. She supported herself and my grandfather after his stroke for about 20 years that way. Her sewing room was always full of fiber dust. She did clean up but it was necessary on a frequent basis - every job or two.

[Paul Alciatore]

I have a 4X6 and the blades seem to fail with stress cracks. I have examined them, thinking that I should try to splice them, but I can always see more cracks forming so it does not appear to be worth the effort. I am in the oil bottle/dripping a bit as the cut progresses group at present.

So, does coolant help to prevent the blades from developing stress cracks?

[ERBenoit]

Originally Posted by torker

The stench? I don't get that. Maybe it's our colder climate up here but I seldom have a problem with that. The only real problem I had was with a totally closed coolant tank that never got used for a few months. Now that WAS some really nasty crap... some kind of 1/2" thick rotten jelly stuff.
I can see guys in the southern places probably having issues with the heat causing the rot... I don't know.

Th stink and the newly hatched "Organisims" are most likely from tramp oils, rather than from the coolant itself. Most of the coolant nowadays has some biocide blended in to comabt stink and fungii growth. In cooler climates, it may take a bit longer, but, coolant doesn't last forever, eventually it will go rank. Oil skimmers will help combat the tramp oil issues. Replacing the contents of the coolant tank as necessary will also help minimize fungal growth.

Unless you end up with so much coolant on the floor, that replenishing the tank accounts just as much for replacing the contents thereof.

[Evan]

I can't figure out why anybody would think that running a bandsaw blade dry would be a good idea. It's a cutting tool and at the point of contact it gets very hot. That heat will damage the blade. Even just hacksawing I get smoke off the blade when I put some oil on it.

I have a deep sided cookie sheet clamped to the tray under my 4x6 and it catches the small amount of oil that my drip feed system dispenses. I use a mixture of 50/50 generic multi-purpose hydraulic oil and Varsol (white spirits) as a cutting lube. It's dirt cheap and works well with iron and aluminum. When the cookie sheet is getting full I tip it off into a coffee can and let it settle for a week. Then I reuse what's in the can for drilling and the bandsaw.

[Fasttrack]

Originally Posted by Paul Alciatore

I have a 4X6 and the blades seem to fail with stress cracks. I have examined them, thinking that I should try to splice them, but I can always see more cracks forming so it does not appear to be worth the effort. I am in the oil bottle/dripping a bit as the cut progresses group at present.

So, does coolant help to prevent the blades from developing stress cracks?

No - what thickness blade are you using? To thick of a blade will crack in short order when used on the 4X6 models.

Evan - For me, the issue is the cost of the coolant and coolant system versus the cost of the blade is what has deterred me from putting one on the saw. I just don't use it enough to justify a coolant system. I don't mind spending the 15 bucks for a new blade when I need it, even though I might need it sooner than the folks with coolant. Like I said, big saws should asbolutely have coolant, or if you use the saw day in day out, then coolant is worth it imo. I don't get the mess or smell argument, though.

[Evan]

Cost shouldn't be a problem. A drip oiler uses very little fluid and costs almost nothing to install. Here is mine.



When it is down it drips. When up it doesn't and is easy to fill. I ended up directing the drip onto the blade guide bearings permanently as that efficiently transfers oil to the blade where it is needed. A needle valve controls the flow.

[Fasttrack]

True ... that has actually been on the to-do list since I first saw your post some time ago. I just haven't gotten around to it yet. Of course, being away at school means I don't see my saw very much anymore. To me, its just one of those things that could go either way. Dry or wet ... doesn't make a huge difference when the blades are no more expensive then they are. Shoot I can get blades for that thing that are only 8 bucks at my local Home Depot ... of course they suck compared to the nice Lenox ones.

[quasi]

when I got my first 4x6 bandsaw, I hung an I.V. bag over it and used it as a drip oiler.

[BobWarfield]

Nice setup, Evan.

I always thought it would be handy to have a self-contained portable mister for machines less often used. Never made one up, but it wouldn't be hard.

Cheers,

BW

[Lew Hartswick]

Originally Posted by torker

However.. my point is.. coolant does make a big difference in blade life.
Russ

:-) Only if the creatures using it know how to use a bandsaw in the
first place. :-)
The Kalamazo (sp?) at school has coolant but the blades last about
a week or sometimes less before half the teeth are striped off. :-(

Some people shouldn't be alowed to touch a machinetool.
...lew...