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Thread: Cutting teeth on a long rack

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    North America
    Posts
    423

    Post Cutting teeth on a long rack

    I have an old Craftsman table saw that was made when Craftsman still made respectable machines. I am planning on extending the table to allow 24" ripping capability. The cast iron table is already drilled to accept an extension, and I plan on welding my own extension and bolting it to the existing table. The fence on said saw has a rack and gear setup to finely adjust the fence. I would really like to make a longer rack to coincide with the table extension. I haven't made any measurements on the teeth on the rack, but they are pretty fine. Does anyone have any suggestions on making a longer rack? I have a Grizzly M/D at my disposal, but can't figure a way to do it. Maybe some sort of ttapered endmill? I've never seen such a creature, but that don't mean it don't exist!

    Thanks in advance.
    Arbo & Thor (The Junkyard Dog)

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    120

    Post

    You could grind a profile cutter similiar to a fly cutter that matches the tooth profile of the existing rack. Another choice would be to buy a gear hob of the proper pitch.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Nottingham, England
    Posts
    15,224

    Post

    They do make tapered cutter but the problem is the size of the tip.
    Smallest I have found in 20 degree is 1/8" at the tip which is a biggish tooth.
    There are no off the shelf 14.5 degree cutters but there are 15 degree ones.
    Again it's the tip size, 3/32 in this case.

    I dare say you can get one custon ground but that could be costly.
    What about a length of of the shelf rack ?

    John S.

    [edit]
    Ted.
    He has a mill drill so is limited to using vertical tools.
    Side cutting tools like fly cutters will only do a short length of rack placed vertical.
    You can't hob racks with a normal gear hobber, they can be hobbed on a special hobbing machine with rack hobs, rare and very expensive.

    [This message has been edited by John Stevenson (edited 02-14-2005).]
    .

    Sir John , Earl of Bligeport & Sudspumpwater. MBE [ Motor Bike Engineer ] Nottingham England.




  4. #4

    Post

    Arbo,
    I replaced mine with a Bessmier(sp) fence about fifteen years ago. I love it over the old Craftsman one. I may even have the old one around, I'll look.

    Matt
    Matt

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    1,035

    Post

    Arbo,

    Don't know if you've ever thought about replacing the existing fence with a Biesemeyer Fence. I did that on my old Craftsman saw. Now able to rip 30" right & 12" left. Here's one that just sold on eBay for $167.00

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...sPageName=WDVW

    Biesemeyer used to have a "scratch & dent" area on their website, but I couldn't locate that today. Their fence is awesome, dead accurate every time. And you'll never again have to use a tape measure to set the fence.




    ------------------
    Barry Milton
    Barry Milton

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    1,017

    Post

    Funny how this topic has come up....

    I've just set up to cut a rack for the T&C grinder I'm making.It's only 9" long but still too big to get in a vertical mill.I'm doing it in a vice on the vertical slide mounted on the lathe cross slide.
    The cutter is on a long arbor,one end in the chuck and a centre support at the other end.I made the arbor to go between centres,but fastening it in the chuck seems a bit more rigid.
    Hope to start cutting it tomorrow,will post a pic if it works out.

    It's a good job that J.S. is only a phone call away to put me right,thanks John.

    Allan

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Posts
    801

    Post

    I've cut racks with a slitting saw before in emergencies. A fly cutter may work too.

    Have to make the cuts on one side of the teeth, reset the head and cut the other sides.

    It's tedious, but gets it done.

    Need a right angle head, to work horizontal, or angle plate to set the blank vertical.

    That depends whether your machine sets for angular cuts.

    You may be able to do this on a table saw in aluminum, or brass, with some tooth spacing fixture.

    kap

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    On the Oil Coast,USA
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    16,858

    Post

    I would make a homebrew Biesmyer fence,anybody with a chunk of square tube and basic tools can do it.
    I just need one more tool,just one!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
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    Post

    There are plans to build one in a book I have. I'll copy & fax to you if you want. Looks like about twenty hours labor and $50 - $100 in material. Bought mine used and it still took four hours to mount, level, align, drill & tap.

    Best thing about the Biesemeyer is that you're able to adjust parallelism of fence to blade. Jim Forrest (Forrest Mfg) recommends that the back end of the fence be adjusted 0.010" - 0.015" farther away from the blade than the front. Easy to do with Biesemeyer's adjustment feature.
    Barry Milton

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Huntsville Ala
    Posts
    5,047

    Post

    <font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by precisionworks:
    ....Jim Forrest (Forrest Mfg) recommends that the back end of the fence be adjusted 0.010" - 0.015" farther away from the blade than the front. Easy to do with Biesemeyer's adjustment feature.</font>
    What's the reasoning behind that?

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