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Thread: Recessed face grinding wheel

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Louisville Ky
    Posts
    325

    Post Recessed face grinding wheel

    Are recessed face grinding wheels intended for use on surface grinders safe to use on bench or pedestal grinders? I havn't been able to find one listed for use on a bench grinder. Need an 8" for an old belt drive Craftsman which I want to modify by adding good solid tool rests with angle scales so I'll be able to grind tool bits properly.
    I'm a newbie at machine shop work, have been reading everything I could find on the subject for years, but havn't had much chance to practice, so any help will be appreciated.

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    Jim
    Jim

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    On the Oil Coast
    Posts
    16,107

    Post

    So long as the speed is correct and you use the intended face of the wheel you shouldn't have any problems.
    I just need one more tool,just one!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Pass Christian, MS
    Posts
    976

    Post

    If you want a grinder to shape tool cutter take a look at the following links.

    http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//Fo...ML/009674.html
    http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//Fo...ML/010671.html

    You can also do a search and find more links that would be helpful.

    Weirdscience is correct also make sure it fits you arbor correctly.

    Joe

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Louisville Ky
    Posts
    325

    Post

    Thanks Wierd And WJ. That HF grinder looks like a good deal if I were in the market for a new one, But I like to fix up and improve what I have, Just trued up my 20 some yr old Tiwanese drill press, and made a wiggler to use on it, got the press fixed so you need an indicator to find the runout, not perfect but the drill point don't go round in a 1/16" or mor circle any more, (if the drill is streight that is). Al oxide is what I'll need, as I'll mainly be grinding HSS. Will use a streight wheel on the left for offhand grinding. Thanks again.


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    Jim
    Jim

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    137

    Post

    the book, workshop....# 35, inquired about on another post has a project that does just what you are thinking of doing.
    http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//Fo...ML/011803.html

    BTW, the book is not really a good tutorial for milling.

    [This message has been edited by joahmon (edited 05-11-2005).]

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Louisville Ky
    Posts
    325

    Post

    Joahmon; thanks for the link about the book, only problem is I don't have a mill, and no prospect of getting one right away, got that old bugaboo called lakamony. Actually I havn't found the type mill I want at a price I could afford, it has to be a benchtop job, preferably knee type, second choice box column. My ideal would be a Benchmaster HV but looks like the chance of finding one of those is pretty slim. Thanks to all who replied to my question

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    Jim
    Jim

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    137

    Post

    Jim,
    Actually the "adapter" is turned on a lathe.

    It's a 2 pc bushing and flange(s) bolted together with 3 bolts through the bushing.
    ( 2 "stepped" washers bolted together through the hole in the wheel ?)

    The flange portion is relieved like regular flanges and the pieces are sized to allow clamping to the wheel with the usual caveat about tightening enough but not to tight. As the authour says, "not as tight as would be done with metal to metal assembly".

    He also shows a method of press fitting a bushing onto the motor shaft, mounting the motor on the lathe bed and facing the bushing to make a flange perpendicular to the axis of the motor by machining it right on the motor shaft using the motor itself as the driving force. This and the machined adapter produces minimal runout.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Louisville Ky
    Posts
    325

    Post

    Joahmon
    Thanks for hanging in there with me, I misunderstood, thought you were talking about milling the tool rests or something like that. The Flange/bushing sounds like a good idea, if the bushing was made a snug but moveable fit and keyed to the shaft that should help a lot in maintaining concentricity, if you wanted more than one wheel, make an adapter for each, and you should be able to switch and replace without disturbing the alignment seriously. My grinder is a belt driven job and I like that as I can adjust the speed by changing pully's if needed. I would have to cut a keyway in the shaft, havn't tried that yet, but could probably find a way to do it. As for the presed on bushing, I would have to remove the shaft and put it between centers to face the bushing, could only do one side as the shaft has to pass thru the bearings to remove or replace it. Now another question about wheels, and we'll see if we can stir up something here, there are probably a lot of opinions, in the Enco catalog I can only find type 5 wheels 8x1x1 1/4 CGW brand in 46 or 60 grit, hardness H or J. Is CGW any good, and will a 46 grit wheel give a finish, if not crowded, that will not require excessive stoning to refine the edge. Which would be the best choice between grades H and J, I would like good cutting action, minimum heat, and reasonable wheel life. I know I've been long winded, but how are we going to get answers if we don't ask questions? Thanks a lot.



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    Jim
    Jim

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