Post in the driveway, removable for anvil or whatever

[rockrat]

I was thinking the other day, I have this anvil that I need to afix somewhere so that I can start pounding on it. Trying to beat on that while it is on the floor is not fun on the back.

So I was thinking, which is dangerous, if I mounted 2 chunks of well casing in the driveway about 3 foot apart and level with the ground, I could cap them with something to keep out the water and my feet/leg.

Then, make two more pieces that would slide into the first two when the caps were off. These would be about 3 foot high and have a square of steel on top for mounting an anvil (one post only) or some wood to act as saw horses when both posts were in the ground.

This way, I can use the cutting torch without worrying about burning the garage down because I missed some little hot chunk of fire metal rolling around.

But, what to cap the casing with that would be semi-easily removeable? I could weld a coupling to the end before mounting that would take a brass pipe plug. The brass would not seize up when the casing rusts. It would take a wrench to remove, but still be sorta quick. And the post type mounting would let me walk around what ever I was working on.

Thoughts?
rock

[ted crivea]

I would prefer it on wood , but a angle iron stand is what I am useing now . you mite want to move it around .

[JPR]

You may still have problems in the winter unless you use a lot of grease.

I have used someone else anvil that was on a 30" high three legged angle stand. It worked well. It had about a 24" spread on the legs with cross bracing and 2"x2" pads welded on the bottom of each leg.

[Your Old Dog]

Mine is strapped to a 20" section tree trunk and I like it that way. It stays where ever I roll/horse it over to. The stump section is just tall enough to cause my forearm to be parallel with the ground when the hammer strikes the work. Make it too high and your forearm will get sore and you won't be meeting the work with the flat of the hammer head but the circumferance of it. Sometimes when things ain't going well in the shop I like to slowly walk over to it, drop one of them Bob DeNero Taxi lines on it and then whomp the hell out it with a small 2 1/2 pounder I got for the occasion. Makes me feel real manly When my breathing smooths out I'm ready to face my original problem only calmer

[This message has been edited by Your Old Dog (edited 07-29-2005).]

[George Hodge]

I mounted my 120# anvil on a section of log,about 18inches in diameter,used my router to carve out the footprint so that it wouldn't walk off the log.That worked fine.Then I lifted the anvli off and laid down a 1/4in layer of clear silicone caulking,set the anvil back down and let it set up several days.Now when I whomp a chunk of steel with a 2-1/2# hammer,I just get a thunk.Never figured the ringing in my ears did any thing to the steel anyway.

[cam m]

Hi Rockrat

Sinking anything at or below grade in a drive way will create a problem with debris of all kinds falling in and filling up with snow and, and, and.... I would discourage anyone from an installation like that. Having said that, I know of several shops up here that have taken the female half of tooljoints off drillpipe and set them in the floor slab, then welding a stand to the mating half of the joint. It makes for a rigid, removeable base for pipe vises and the like. OK for an INDOOR installation. For sawhorses and anvil stands though, I would lean toward a beefy base with wheels that raise and lower like the wheeled bases for power tool stands. Beefy and weighty for stability and wheels to move it back into the garage when not in use. Think about this... How are you going to lift the anvil high enough to remove the base from its socket when SWMBO is pulled up with this week's groceries and you've been pounding iron all afternoon?

Cam

[Boucher]

For many years I had my anvil mounted as Your Old Dog mentioned in his post. After the oak block gave away. I took a piece of 20" steel pipe and welded cross members for the Anvil to set on about 2" below the top of the pipe. I set the anvil in place and poured good grade of concrete inside the pipe full to the top. This has worked well enough and will outlast me but I liked the feel of the anvil mounted on the oak better!

[rockrat]

Ok, the oak block looks like it is winning. I had a chunk of tree I was saving for such a project, but the weather got to it before I came up with an anvil. And has anyone seen what anvils go for at auction?!?!?! I saw a fellow pay $300 for iron he could buy new at the store for $150-$200.

[wierdscience]

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by rockrat:
Ok, the oak block looks like it is winning. I had a chunk of tree I was saving for such a project, but the weather got to it before I came up with an anvil. And has anyone seen what anvils go for at auction?!?!?! I saw a fellow pay $300 for iron he could buy new at the store for $150-$200.

</font>

Yes,I saw a guy in bib overalls pay $650 for a cast iron anvil(I don't think those were his overalls )An a yuppie antique dealer pay $250 for a 75lb shoe anvil(she was wearing her bluejeans,nice tight ones )

Have you seen what a new anvil goes for?



[This message has been edited by wierdscience (edited 07-29-2005).]

[wierdscience]

Sumabitch DDP!

[This message has been edited by wierdscience (edited 07-29-2005).]