TIG is running! Hoffman come out and play.

[rockrat]

I directed some electrons toward a metal joint today with the Miller welder that I have been working on.




Picked up some argon this morning and finished the new connection on my torch. I am ready to roll. Now I got to get some scrap aluminum and filler rod to make the next leap.

happy-rock-

[This message has been edited by rockrat (edited 11-19-2005).]
Ok, smaller picture. Click on the photo to make it big.

[This message has been edited by rockrat (edited 11-19-2005).]

[Ron LaDow]

Rockrat,
I see a magnetic 'clamp' in the background. Did you use that? Those spray the arc on my TIG all over the place when I weld anywhere close to them.
Thanks,
Ron LaDow

[Your Old Dog]

Rock,
how do you post the pictures like that? It must be pretty nice for the guys on dialup service.

How do you write the code? By the way, if you include the code between the brackets you type it out verbatim and it won't display what it's intended to.

thanks,
Ray.........

[rockrat]

Ron LaDow, interesting. It would seem that a magnet would pull the flux from the torch a bit, but that much? I dont know.

I did use the magnet to make the weld, but since this is the first with this setup, I was adjusting all of the dials all over the place to get things going. Maybe it did cause something to be goofy and I wont see it till I try something without the magnet.


Dog, here is the trick. (if the code thing works)

[ U R L =http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y128/katiecat222/IMG_1222.jpg] [ I M G ]http://photobucket.com/albums/y128/katiecat222/th_IMG_1222.jpg[ / I M G ] [ / U R L ]

Or, you can always hit the edit on my post and see ti there. You can see the editing feild but you can not save the changes.

When using photobucket, they make a thumbnail automatically. It has the test "th_" before the rest of the photos filename. So, code as above using the th_ as the image to be seen by the reader and the full size image as the link.

Sweeeeet
rock-

The code thing didnt work. Trying it again.
Take out the spaces that are in the [ ]'s

[This message has been edited by rockrat (edited 11-19-2005).]

[Ron LaDow]

Rockrat,
Interesting. I wonder if it is sensitive to the material thickness?
I was welding some .04" material. Those sections look like 1/4"?
On the .04, you could *not* weld near the clamps; the arc was flying all over the place.
Thanks,
Ron LaDow

[charlie coghill]

The magnets make my tigger go crazy also. I tried to use the magnet squares as you have there. It just will not work.

[3 Phase Lightbulb]

For the folks having problem(s) TIG welding with magnetic holders, I'm wondering how far away the tip of the tungsten is from the work?

Don't be afraid to get the end of the tungsten as close to the work as possible (If you're not accidently touching and ruining the tip frequently then you're probably not getting close enough). It takes a LOT of practice.

Generally, I always try to keep the tip as close as possible (~ 1/8" or less) at all times. This gives you a nicely focused ARC, a smaller heat affected zone, more control over the heat, and gives better penetration.

-Adrian

[Ron LaDow]

Adrian,
Nope. If anything, I suffer from the 'dirty tungsten' syndrome rather than the opposite.

[hoffman]

Lookin' good! I guess you got the pedal and associated stuff worked out?

Welding aluminum is just a waaay cool thing to be able to do. Post some pics when you get some al stuck together

[torker]

Hey guys!
You should watch out when tigging around magnets.
I got a pretty good burn from that awhile ago. Was in a hurry, needed a quick little tack on a piece I was going to stick weld later.
Had a really short piece of filler rod and I'd ground the tip off one of the fingers in my glove (I hadn't noticed it).
I was tacking right next to a big assembly magnet and the arc scattered and burned my finger through the hole in the glove.
I should have known better than to even try it but as I said...in a hurry.
I've used some old scratch starts that weren't affected by magnets but anything with hi freq start will usually go nuts.
Adrian...the cup walking technique I use...You actually drag the tungsten tip in the puddle...or so it looks. There is a very fine surface tension that allows this. If you even ripple it you will smoke your tungsten.
The pic below shows the actual path of the tungsten tip in the puddle as it is manipulated. You will also notice that I had the tungsten just a wee bit too sharp. You don't get the crisp lines if it is a little duller...it flows together a bit nicer...

Russ...have a good time tiggin!