slitting and slitting saws

[decoy91288]

I have some instructions calling for slitting an aluminum bushing lengthwise to .010. The only slitting saw I have is with the Taig lathe and it is .032, further it is more like a circle saw than anything else. Someone said (here?) that it is designed to be used to saw small wood parts for models.

So the questions are: How does one "slit." What types of cutters are used and where would I find them? I have three tool catalogues but none list "slitting saws," nor do any of the cutters seem designed or capable of cutting slits to .010.

Suggestions on how to properly hold small pieces for such cutting would be helpful too. I tried to make a new collet for the Taig using their provided "blank" collet. No problem drilling it to the proper diameter, but certainly problematic to hold it steady for the provided slitting saw to do its stuff.

Thanks for any suggestions you all can offer.

------------------
Craig

[C. Tate]

What you have sounds like a true slitting saw. Slitting saws look like small circular saw blades and can be used for many different things. I use a blade that is 3.0 inches in diameter by .062 thick to cut .375 dia stainless tubing to length after bending. As long as you do not put any axial cutting forces on the blade it should do fine for slitting.

[Randy]

I think you need some more catalogs. MCS has several pages of slitting, jeweler's, and screw slotting saws. I see jeweler's and screw slotting saws as thin as .006" in various diameters from 1" and up. They're only a few bucks apiece. Jeweler's saws have the finest teeth, both they and screw slotting saws are useful for tubing, sheet, and other shallow cuts. Slitting saws, which don't go as thin, have larger teeth and are hollow ground on the sides, so they'll go as deep as your arbor allows, though maybe not in a single pass. You can buy arbors, though they're easy to make. If you make an arbor, don't worry about a drive key even though many saws have keyways. Thin saws are delicate, so you don't want to push them very hard, thus there's not so much driving torque that you need a key.

[This message has been edited by Randy (edited 07-21-2001).]

[toff]

Hi,
IMHO, the real important thing is to make your cuts conventional ( part toward teeth ) First at about .02 to .04 deep to make up for any uneven surface and to start the saw in a straight line, this will prevent the saw from wandering later. Feed and speed /low and slow! You will get the hang of the process quickly.
I agree with Randy, More catalogs, and look in the back of them, they often have useful tables of calculations for masochists.
Luck
toff

[This message has been edited by toff (edited 07-22-2001).]

[Drillbilly]

I made some collets for metric drills. By drilling a hole through the center a chunk of scrap bar stock. With the metric drill in a
lathe. Then using a dremel with the cut off
wheel. Cut slots long ways from the out side
through the inside. Stopping short from the end to keep it together.

[Thrud]

I hope you are not attempting to hold it with your hands when slitting the collet! Stick it in a vice or you will cut something off you did not expect (like fingers). The Dremel abrasive cut-off wheels will do the job but don't last long. You may also want to check out some books on machining - one can never know enough...